Here we go!! Sanyo 20 EZV Woes

martimagico

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Okay, Please be patient and above all HELP!!

it all started last november,
bought a VS smb cab on craigslist, was told it was glitchy over the phone.
when i showed up the guy had plugged it in and said it needed to warmup sometimes, pretty much intermittent, paid him no mind and bought the machine, i always wanted a nintendo cab!
anyway i got it home and opened it up. no power no sound do display!

checked the input v. good, all the way up to the monitor, good.

then the monitor!! i noticed there were 2 fuses, both 4A one and also the smell of burnt components!!
anyway flash forward to this august, after my 8 month military deployment, have some time to mess with it. did some research, saw the new wreck it ralph trailers ready to build it up!

looked at the manuals, the 300ma fuse holder had a 4A fuse ugh!!

tried and fried a 300ma, no joy!!

went online and bought a cap kit and flyback, the flyback was the wrong one!! thanks twisted quarter! finally got a HV probe and removed the monitor and disassembled to get to the board and start the cap kit.
still waiting on the flyback but said screw it did the cap kit. found a few things, not sure which one was Q902, ended up tracing it back to the isolated plate near the FB, checked the resistance from the ground circuit to the 902 casing, SHORTED!! bad q902

still planning on replacing the FB, but also traced the burnt smell to the r479 supposed to be 330ohms but is 379 is that okay? its cracked to but not broken all the way. anyone know where to get one? also where to get the HOT?

never worked on a monitor or TV before, although i do repair f18 displays with crt's.
 
sanyo

Yeah, these can be a pain.. R479.. Its a metal film resistor.im not sure of the tolerance. If its a 10% then 379 is out of value.i would also check c485. It is in paralel with r479. Also check your diodes. One right before r479 and one after.also check tr901.it can go bad when tr902 goes.
 
The hot is a "NTE89". Don't be surprised if that 4 amp fuse didn't toast the voltage regulator "A5112".
The only source I know of for that is Twisty.
 
update: i finished the cap kit on the chassis and installed the new flyback and HOT. finally, put it all back together and it did not have a display, instead i heard hissing and crackling sound WTF!!!
it does not blow fuses just flips out! any ideas? whats next?
get flashed and hissing every now and then checked the B+ voltage and it read 134+/- 5 volts and it wont adjust down!

any ideas?
 
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Wow nobody really replied to this thread, since the fuse was swapped, I would say check the diodes on the 100v coming in. You didn't plug that sanyo in a regular wall outlet did you?
 
Wow nobody really replied to this thread, since the fuse was swapped, I would say check the diodes on the 100v coming in. You didn't plug that sanyo in a regular wall outlet did you?

no i realize that it is a 100v setup, i have crackling soounds, ghost flashes on the screen, nothing else
 
test Q901/2sd1090 and see if it is shorted.
you also will probably need a new IC601 as well.

theses two parts and several others control/make up the regulated B+ on the chassis.

test the big wite resister next to those two parts as well look for cracks and cold solder joints.

134v is to high and it is going into shutdown.

i have the 2sd1090/Q901 and B+ pots in stock if you want one but no IC601's. try riptor for them.

Peace
Buffett
 
test Q901/2sd1090 and see if it is shorted.
you also will probably need a new IC601 as well.

theses two parts and several others control/make up the regulated B+ on the chassis.

test the big wite resister next to those two parts as well look for cracks and cold solder joints.

134v is to high and it is going into shutdown.

i have the 2sd1090/Q901 and B+ pots in stock if you want one but no IC601's. try riptor for them.

Peace
Buffett

will do on the trouble shooting... how do i check for cold solder?
 
Close visual inspection. When in doubt..just freshen up the solder anyway.
 
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