Help with WG6100 no 180V (or26)

MonsterBash

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So I'm trying to get my Star Wars back up and running after years for being in storage. I have NO power at all at pin 1 2 or 5 on the HV board..so basically nothing.

The game plays blind..no spot killer

All 6 chassis mounted transistors have been replaced with new isolators and thermal grease

The 4 fuses on the deflection board are fine

I have faint neck glow which I thought was weird with no 180v

I followed the trouble shooting in the FAQ and got to the end (thus I think i's an incoming PS issue)

The power brick as a new blue as well as a new fuse block and they test fine.

I also tried a complete another WG66100 (HV, Defect and neck board) that had 180V at B+, when I put those 3 components in the SW I get nothing..no 26 or 180

My question is what voltage should I have on the 3 wires (brown, gray and brown with white) that goes from the power brick to the monitor..because I have nothing

Also someone at one time removed the interlock switchwes and jumped it on the power brick. I've attached a pic as i'm thinking there could be something here (or wrong) considering this game as been moved numerous times in the last 8+ years.

Oh yeah..

Happy Easter!
 

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If you're marquee light works, or you have gameplay, then that jumpering for the interlock should be okay. I'm sure you already checked the fuses on the power brick, but also check the pins inside the big connector to the deflection board, as they sometimes back out a little and don't provide good connection.

Can you hear deflection chatter from the monitor?

Has this chassis been rebuilt? You may need a new HV Adjust pot on the HV board, and you should check ZD902 (not to be confused with D902)...
 
Thanks for the 'Easter' reply!

I do not hear any chatter at all..the game play and marque light is on.

As I mention i did try a working HV, deflection board, and neck board from another 6100 and it has the exact same issue. Would this emlinate the pin issue as the HV and wiring from the defection board is different?

The original chassis was rebuild but never installed and working. A guy at work did it for me a while ago...the work is real nice..all header pins and wired pins reflowed.

The 'loaner' 6100 is rebuild with a LV2000 mod.

I'm thinking my next move is to try the power brick from my tempest (which has a board problem)

Do you know what i should be getting at the brown. gray, brn\wht wires? Because I have nothing there or nothing comping out of the power block.

I'm assuming the neck glow is sent from the game board?

Thanks again!!
 
Did you check your fuses on the brick? the connector that would have pins backing out would be the one from the Tempest to the chassis, so even a new chassis wouldn't work because of a problem with the cab connector.

If you're not getting anything out of the brick for the monitor, you could see if it's actually coming out of the transformer. If you have another known-working brick, then try it...
 
Tried another brick from the tempest..while in the tempest I got a B+ of 180...in the SW I get nothing.

All the fuses buzzed fine from the outside of the fuse holder in both bricks

I have a feeling I'm missing something stupid obvious...
 
Edit:..
After looking at the Tempest schematics I'm guessing the brick BR has on his site is a non-vector. Tempest is calling for 50VAC and 10 and 11. Any idea why I would have half of that?

So I got up at 4:30AM this morning to try a couple more things.

Both power bricks are putting out 25 VAC where I should have 120 VAC (I think.. still looking for pinouts). BR has 120VAC at pins 10 and 15
 
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Look at this site

Go to the 4 red squares in the middle

They are diagrams that have been made a bit easier to read than some online ones

If you don't understand diagrams, please ask

Something is failed, maybe something simple like a diode in the bridge rectifier (go to the power brick diagram)

If one of the 4 diodes shorts out you will get a really badly broken up DC signal

Do you know how to test a bridge rectifier on a dmm?

If not let us know and we can help
 
Ha!

Same question I had this morning...thus I got up a half hour early before work and checked it!

Thanks for the link..there's a ton of info.

Good think I have a lite day at work.

Edit: Those schematics are MUCH more clear than anything I've seen..Thanks!

Yes.. I do have basic DMM knowledge and can test the bridge rectifier(s)

I got a little bit of a game plan when I get home from work...will post back with an update





Secondly, did you definitely put the new big blue in the right way?

:)
 
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Did you test the voltage by putting a lead of the DMM in each of the two power wires to the monitor? If you put one lead on ground and the other lead on each power wire, it will read as half what it should be...
 
So Here's an update...

I returned the HV, Deflection board and neck board back to the Tempest monitor..I also return all parts back to their original home (Power brick..PS..etc)

I removed the complete monitor from the Tempest and installed it in the SW and whola...Star Wars lives!.

I adjusted the monitor from the PCB and got it close..not perfect as I still had some vectors that didn't like up completely..but it was good enough to finally play a game.

I was able to get 180V at pin 5 on the HV board.

Of course the arcade gods continue to make me their little bitch, the second game in one of the gears broke in the yoke and I had no up or down =(.

With that being said it looks likes there there is an issue with the other 6100...I'm gonna order a vector extension cable and try to figure it out later this week.

On a side note..does anyone know where to buy replacement yoke gears (other than RAM of course)?

Thanks for the help guys..I'm sure I'll be picking your brain when I go after the other 6100
 
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