Help with strange Getaway/WPC wiring

jacklick

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Donor 9 years: 2013, 2016-2021, 2023-2024
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Picked up a Getaway that was a reimport. Definitely have some work to do on various issues and wire hacks but am starting with the ball plunger which is not working.

Steps taken
1) Verified all voltages on boards. Checked all leds and voltage test points on driver board etc.
2) check for dc power at solenoid = no power
3) check for power at "High Current Driver Board" J1-6 = no power
4) check for power on driver board at J107-2 =good

Now this is where I got puzzled. The manual says J107-2 (violet-orange) but the test menu diag says J107-1 (violet-green) for plunger solenoid. There are two violet-orange wires at front of machine. One for the trough or outhole (either menu or me has these backwards) and one for plunger. The outhole goes back to J107-2 but the Plunger goes back to J109-7 (labeled flipper power on driver board). Now I believe this is a fliptronics 2 game so have no idea why anything is on J109-7. I believe both (violet-orange) wires should be on J107-2 but not sure how that would be accomplished w/o cutting and splicing.

4) check power at J109-7 = no power
5) check fuse @ F102 which is for LWR right flipper based on board = Fuse Blown

So here I am with a blown fuse with a wire somewhere it likely shouldn't be.

So my questions.
1) Is J109-7 safe to use for low power. It seems this was wired this way from the beginning
2) Should I and how would I get both violet-orange wires in J107-2.
3) why is the diag menu saying one thing (regarding wire color) but reality and manual shows another
4) Is it the "trough" solenoid that kicks ball into shooter lane or "outhole" solenoid? If outhole the menu is wrong for this too.

Thanks


IMG_20140126_205707.jpg
 
oh and I know the fuse is showing visibly bad from the picture and could have just replaced that first. I am glad I didn't because I learned a ton going in the order I did. Still need to verify all the other fuses are of correct type.
 
Well I replaced the fuse in f102 and the plunger worked.....at least for awhile. it blew again today.

new question if anyone is reading this. should the ground test point on driver board have continuity w/ ground strap/cable on machine?
 
Well I replaced the fuse in f102 and the plunger worked.....at least for awhile. it blew again today.

new question if anyone is reading this. should the ground test point on driver board have continuity w/ ground strap/cable on machine?

Had a similar problem on my Bally due to a bad hold on my flipper. Basically high voltage was being drawn to keep flipper up and would blow the fuse. The plunger shouldn't have a hold relay but I would suggest checking to see that it travels freely and that the diode on the coil is good. Either could result in fuses blowing and some working. Good luck I need me a hi-speed
 
Your wiring is the same as mine.

And yes, there should be continuity between the GND test point and the braid (and is on mine as I did check).

There is a small circuit board near the left flipper unit that supplies power to the coils, you may want to check it for colder solder joints. The ones on the 'transistor' like to cause problems.

Edit: also looks like you are getting some bad solder joints in the HV section for the DMD in the circuit board that is above the driver board in your picture as well (can see one developing around the resistor leg).

BTW - not uncommon for manuals at being wrong with regards to wire colors and such.
 

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thanks for additional info longjohns I have never just reflowed solder on a board for preventative maint... but sounds like it might be good practice. I always hear Todd Tuckey of TNT amusements say "we reflowed silver solder on all the boards"..

I am going to have to pull these boards and see what is up. There is some corrosion (not battery related) of the ground braid strap and no continuity from ground pin or board screw areas with braid.
 
Hey,

I'll do some more reviewing of your posts, but if I'm thinking correctly, you should have continuity between any two grounded points, whether that's a test point, a rail, braid, what have you. If you don't have continuity between two ground points, take your DMM and test for continuity between each of those points and the grounding prong on the wall plug. One of those won't have continuity. That particular point is not grounded, and you'll need to fix that.

Luke
 
Yea. I figured this was the case and actually posted a video of me troubleshooting here

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?p=2678144#post2678144

I basically figured out what the answer to this post question. For whatever reason, the power from J109-7 is being used for the plunger. I did test J109-7 and the voltage was the same as J107-2.
Based on this pinside thread
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/calling-all-getaway-owners-i-need-some-pics

and Longjohn above, it seems that this was common and probably a field fix. In my case the wire from j109-7 runs all the way to the high current driver board.

My grounding issue is due to rust and missing braid in the backbox. Thanks for all the help!!
 
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