Help with Screen "bounce" please!

javelin

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Arcade Game Pros,

I have an old Spy Hunter which seems to always have some sort of issue, but now it MOSTLY really works except for this screen "bounce" which pretty much makes it impossible to play.. I've carefully looked in the back and made sure all wiring connectors were pretty well seated (they are/were).. Anyone know what's going on with this?

https://youtu.be/rkUoVOXemQM?list=PLc_1UEAnB_iMcvScjYWN5B7yIM7R65FQC

I've tried the V/H Hold little turn points, but that doesn't seem to do anything with this. Any guidance?

Also, separately, I'm scared to death to touch too much as I've read these things can pack a punch (even after being unplugged/turned off for a while). Is there a way to discharge the capacitors or whatever safely so I can work on it without fear?

Thank you all in advance!!!

Best,

Jay
 
Thanks Frizzle - I turned the sound on and off - tried it both ways, but don't hear any sort of tick/snap anything. One thing to note is that when I first turn on the power, it seems to be STABLE (no bouncing) for about 5-7 seconds.. then the bounce starts and stays.

Thanks,

Jay
 
I've seen similar symptoms when there was a short going... basically a short to the frame would cause similar symptoms... but you would hear a tick or snap...
 
Would it be a short from one of the wires coming from the screen? Or any wire in there? The PCBs are in pretty rough shape and have certainly been loose in the past... so I wouldn't doubt it. Anywhere specifically to look?

What about getting electrocuted? Is that a real concern when everything is off?
 
Thanks Yaggy, but I have NO idea what that means.. Can you elaborate please or point me to a link that explains it?

Thanks,
Jay
 
He means reflow all solder points for the flyback, on the bottom of the monitor PCB. Best practice is to remove it, then apply new solder. Make sure the new solder is melted nice and clean on each point.
 
Yes, the high voltage in these monitors are no joke, even if they have been disconnected for years. You need to discharge the monitor by using a screw driver with alligator clips. There are many videos on YouTube that demonstrate this, but be very careful. After I discharge a monitor I usually let it sit for a few minutes and then put the screw driver back over the anode hole. Usually there will be a second small spark. Better to be safe. Below is a link to a video.

Also, the monitor could probably use a cap kit, which requires you to be able to solder. There are also lots of videos on how to do this on YouTube as well.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YfQbdvB8GSM

Ross
 
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