Help with Neo MVS K7000 Issue?

Hawk777th

New member
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
Colorado
Hey guys first post!

Anyways I recently got a Neo MVS 4 slot cab and it has been great. The only flaw with it has been an issue with the monitor.

The monitor is crisp and bright with great color. That being said there is something causing roll on the side.

I have a remote board and if I turn my Hpos all the way to the left about 3 sets of boxes endup being cutoff by the screen. If I roll my Hops pot right I end up getting curling on the right side to fit the test screen.

So I either deal with the left side getting cut off or the right side rolling up and being rescanned.

Here is a picture of the roll up I am dealing with.


I also made a short youtube video of the problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4HMBGH61FI

I have since tried to adjust the Hcoil but it only seems to make the problem worse as the grid is already to big to begin with and if I make it wider even less of it fits on the screen.

Will a cap kit correct this?

Thanks for any help!
 
I am not aware of that function on the K7000? I have tried the width coil to no avail.
 
Ah sorry, thought we were talking about a 7400 for some reason. As far as I am aware the stock width cap (C38) should be fine for an MVS, it may have drifted out of spec. It would be worth measuring your B+ as well.
 
Last edited:
Can you tell me how to check that. I am a total noob. Do I need to pull the board out?

This is my first arcade cab and I am trying to figure it all out still haha! :)
 
take some pics of the chassis.
if it is a 27" model that was stuck on a 25" tube then that would be about rite for a bigger tube.

if it has not been capped it will help with that issue.
but probably will not totally eliminate it.

without a capacitance meter you will not be able to check your C36 poly cap.

look at it and see what is printed on it.
and is it a 4 legged cap or two legged cap.

or if it is 2 caps a C36 and a C69.

i would start with a cap kit, fly and a re-flow of the chassis and neck board to make it more reliable.

My MKII does the same thing but not as severe as yours.
it does not bother me as much and nobody ever notices it on mine so i never bothered to find out what it was.

also update your general location so maybe a local member can come help if needed.
and welcome to the forums.

Peace
Buffett
 
Here are a few pictures of the board. Not sure if any of them help.






I have a local guy that could recap it but I am not above just getting one of your refurbed boards to throw in there so I dont have to go through the brain damage of chasing issues.

I only have a multi meter so i guess I cant check that cap.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Mit! I trust you just wanted to get some more opinions before I decide what to do.
 
Last edited:
Is that dark red one by the Hcoil C36? I cant see any markings on it if thats the one.
 
Last edited:
Does this look correct for the vertical yoke? Showing 1.5 on the Horizontal? This is on my K7000.

 
yes that is correct.

i have the rite chassis for that yoke.

as soon as i can get it redone you will have the rite one to mach that yoke.

Peace
Buffett
 
Take a look at the cap at C38. If the printing on the cap doesn't say .394 or HIGHER I'd change it. Wells used 3-5 different valued caps in that position (some for the different sized tubes 19/25/27 and some for ??? reason).

BITD I would always see this when we converted something older that came factory with a K7000 (something like Rampage for instance) to something newer (SFII).

EDIT: I should add that the value of this cap has a direct effect on the horizontal width of the image. The higher the value the smaller the picture. I've seen some factory K7000's with .284 and .252 in that position and the screen was HUGE when used with a mid to early 90's game and higher.
 
I did order a C38 that was factory specs just to throw in and see if it makes any difference.

The thing is I dont know if its even the width its like the whole picture is shooting to the left to far.
 
Last edited:
I did order a C38 that was factory specs just to throw in and see if it makes any difference.

The thing is I dont know if its even the width its like the whole picture is shooting to the left to far.

Welcome to Neo Geo hell.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=233054

My C38 is also off but I haven't had time to get a new one, hopefully in a few weeks.

Did you try moving the raster position jumpers? I tried this a while ago with no results, but after I tried it I found that the previous owner did an improper C36 mod which may have prevented my position jumpers from doing anything.
 
To throw in my own sad story, I too have a K7000 in my MVS-4 and it looks exactly like this. Exactly. I am glad I did not have to start a new thread for this issue. Anyway, when I get back to my shop I am going to check C36 and C38 first. My chassis has been completely rebuilt, caps, fly, hot, vr, so C36 and C38 were next on my list but it is nice to see you monitor guys shedding some light on this issue because Buffett's MKII may be small and unnoticeable, but mine keeps me awake at night. I also have a friend who likes to come over to my shop and point out everything that is wrong with each of my games. Prick. I was hoping the op would update this thread with his progress and I do not know if his absenteeism is a good sign or a bad one. Either way I will update this thread with my progress to add some information to the search function.

Welcome to Neo Geo hell.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=233054

My C38 is also off but I haven't had time to get a new one, hopefully in a few weeks.

Did you try moving the raster position jumpers? I tried this a while ago with no results, but after I tried it I found that the previous owner did an improper C36 mod which may have prevented my position jumpers from doing anything.


Neo Geo hell………………. Isn't that the truth. If I did not love the games so much, I would sell this machine.
 
Back
Top Bottom