Help with K7300

Rrcade

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I replied to an earlier post on this but I don't think anyone saw it so I'm reposting as a new Thread:

What a coincidence, I went to look at a game I was having monitor troubles with and it is this exact one. I looked at the following from Ken's page:Common problems: Power applied, Monitor dead, No neck glow. Cause: Resistor R812, Transistor Q801, and Capacitor C807 are all bad and should be all replaced. Solution: Replace R812 (68 ohms, 1/2 watt), Q801 (2SC2073 or 2SD478 or NTE 375), and C807 (100 uf @ 16 volts). Check zener diode (7.5 volt) D805 for a shorted condition.
Top half of picture distorted (may have edge ripples in bad half, too). Cause: bad I302 chip. Solution: Replace I302 vertical output IC (LA7833). This IC should have high resistance (500k or higher) between pin 1 and the mounting tab. If resistance is considerably lower then the IC is bad internally.

It appears someone already worked on this chassis and replaced all the Resistors,Transistors,and caps mentioned above. I did notice that the Q801 looked burnt and the solder joints were loose so I removed the old solder and reflowed everything above.

Well I thought that did it cause the monitor fired right up with a nice picture, then I started hearing a sound (best way to describe is the static sound you get when playing an old scratched up record) and then the picture went out. A few seconds later it would come on again, make that noise and go out again. I can't tell where the sound is coming from it almost sounds like it's coming from that Yellow transformer looking thing in the picture earlier in this thread. It doesn't sound like it's the flyback and the flyback adjustments work fine. I did notice that when I hear that sound the screen starts to ripple on both Sides(top to bottom-not just one half like mentioned by Ken). Anyone know what my problem could most likely be?
Thanks
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What could be wrong with it? Loose?

I remember some types of monitors have a gap in there that you'll hear it sparking across. That might be what you hear.

otherwise, just pull the anode cup off, clean the area around the anode hole and the suction cup, and then reattach, making sure it is on nice and tight with the suction cup pushed down good. I know sometimes you'll get some staticy sounds if it's dirty or not down good...
 
I checked the wire from the anode to the neckboard and it in fact was pulled out a little, when I pushed it back in it felt like it snapped into place so I'm assuming there is some kind of connector in there that it pulled out of. Well I fired it up and the picture came up but once again it would stay on for a while then go out, then come on, then out...there aren't any caps that "look" bad there is just a little burn marks around Q801 transistor, what do you think could this problem be a bad flyback? I'll try a cap kit first but I'm just wondering if a picture going on and off is a problem that might be a bad flyback.
 
Turn all the lights out and watch the chassis closely when you hear the staticy sound to see if you can narrow it down to a specific area.
 
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