Help with identifying monitor chassis.

holaplaneta

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Hi there,

I got an old Dynamo HS-5 cab that could definitively use some new caps. The monitor is a Zenith ga63adg25x, but I honestly this is my first cab and can´t recognize or find the chassis model.

I already surveyed this great page that the real Bob Roberts gave me but I´m honestly clueless...

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html

A helpful nice user "MonMotha" on another forum, suggested that it might be a Kortek clone of a Wells k7000 series and told me to get a new AC cap too since these don´t usually come included with most cap kits and mine is bulging.

I sent my email to real bob roberts but he replied telling me that: -it does look like another K7000 rip-off, but that doesnt mean it uses the same caps & it definitely doesn't use a K7000 flyback. You could get a K7000 cap kit & cross your fingers. The flyback you might get lucky with by pulling it & getting the actual PN off from it to try &
track down. As for the filter the K7000 uses a 560uf200v for you to xref it.-

So before I go and order the pieces I wanted to see if anybody of you nice folks around here have other ideas or suggestions about the model or specs of this monitor chassis.

Every help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Yes it did come with a fan on the top! Thanks!

The pic surely will help.
 
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Here is mine. It's a Kortek, but I never could get a specific model. The closest I could ever get was that it's supposed to be a mirror of the k7000. Hope this helps. I got a k7000 capkit for mine, and iirc, about 95% were spot on.

Recoverd_jpg_file86.jpg
 
For what it is worth:

Monitor type: I agree with the guy who provided the photo, it looks just like his, and his is a Kortek.

What does the label say on the outside of the unit? I can't get a read on it in the pictures.

Also, the big black cap in the pictures on the corner of the PCB - it could be a distortion of the picture, but that looks bulged (failed). If it is bulged / swollen, you have to replace it.
 
Many thanks for all the help.

I´m attaching pics of the label at the side of the chassis (it´s a service number), the fan that came on top of the flyback and a picture that shows that the AC cap is indeed bulging.

About the cap kit and flyback, I´m thinking about going with the K7000, and if it is as GoneMad mentioned, it should have 95% of the caps I need.

GoneMad, do you have any suggestions of which caps might be missing from the K7000 cap kit from real bob?

Any suggestions about the flyback model too? Real Bob said that the one from the kit won´t do.

I will definetively get the big AC cap to replace, it does look bad as you guys suggested.

Thanks!
 

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You may want to look at all of the caps and just order from Mouser or Newark, then you'll know you have them all. If the flyback is still good, just leave it as-is for now and see how the capping out goes. If the flyback is good, you're lucky because it may be impossible to find a replacement. I have a Wico/Kortek "Tekbuilt" that is very similar to this and has a bad flyback. Replacements are not available :-(
 
This might also help you build your list of caps... or at least cross reference?

Wells Gardner k7000 Series Capacitor Map:
http://homearcade.org/BBBB/k7000lyot.html

Wells Gardner K7000 Series Monitor

C10 33u 25V
C11 22u 25V
C12 1u 50V
C13 22u 25V
C18 1u 50V
C20 10u 50V
C21 10u 50V
C22 1u 50V
C23 47u 25V
C40 2200u 35V
C42 1000u 16V
C45 470u 16V
C46 470u 16V
C48 100u 35V
C50 1000u 25V
C56 22u 160V
C57 47u 200V
 
Thank you so much for all the great support guys.

The monitor does work, but sometimes it has some intermittent tear lines on the upper side on the screen. Not really a big deal, but I want to leave it as good as it can possibly be.

I already ordered a K7000 cap kit to check if I can work with those and now I´m considering removing the flyback just to see if I can get a model number, but I don´t know yet if I feel comfortable in doing so. I suppose that eventually I will, but first I´ll try to take some more closer pictures of it in a couple of days when I get home from a business trip to see if any of you recognize it and help me identifying it.

I need to get my hands on a new the AC cap too.

I´ll keep you informed, and thanks again for all the ideas and recommendations.
 
Thank you so much for all the great support guys.

The monitor does work, but sometimes it has some intermittent tear lines on the upper side on the screen. Not really a big deal, but I want to leave it as good as it can possibly be.

I already ordered a K7000 cap kit to check if I can work with those and now I´m considering removing the flyback just to see if I can get a model number, but I don´t know yet if I feel comfortable in doing so. I suppose that eventually I will, but first I´ll try to take some more closer pictures of it in a couple of days when I get home from a business trip to see if any of you recognize it and help me identifying it.

I need to get my hands on a new the AC cap too.

I´ll keep you informed, and thanks again for all the ideas and recommendations.

I would recommend NOT removing the flyback. The flys on those Korteks are not in production any more, and not available. If the chassis works, I just don't know how much I'd muck with it.

Yes, the AC filter cap is bulged, so that might be worth swapping out. As far as the rest of the caps go, if you're comfortable changing them out, go for it. If this will be the first monitor you recap, I'm not sure it's your best one to play with. Putting new caps on that chassis could stress the flyback and cause it to fail. (common with the Electrohome G07 monitor design).

Can you show us a picture of the intermittent 'tear lines?' Perhaps it's something that should be adjusted out, and not due to bad caps.
 
I would love to post the pics as soon as I get home and get the chance to play with it, but it might not be for the next couple of days.

Thank you for the recommendation, you guys are awesome, I´m really glad I found this forum full of nice helpful folks like you,.
 
Today finally I had the chance to take some more pictures. I got one label from the flyback that reads:

ETF46L25AY

1N1 11.7


and other two pics of the bulged AC cap showing it´s specs and "23V6M" at the top.

I´ll mail them to real bob to get any comments and recommendations. I´m still hoping that I can get a replacement for the flyback.

Btw, I don´t think I´ll have the time to connect everything again to take a picture of the tearing on the screen until xmas or something, sorry.

Any recommendations on the best brands for the AC cap?

I really appreciate all your comments and ideas guys. Thanks.
 

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Hey guys, could I just get one of this and replace my chassis and problem solved?

http://www.dirtcheaptrading.com/ind...&redirected=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=16

Universal Replacement Arcade Monitor chassis 25" CRT Zoom

This chassis will work for 25"-29" Monitors. New Wei Ya Replacement chassis. This chassis is for standard resolution CRT CGA only...if your monitor was another resolution, it will now be standard. This chassis will not replace all, but it will replace most. To determine if it will work on your monitor please follow these instructions.

You must find a CRT with these specifications:

1) Measure the vertical ohms, it should be 6 ohms to 12 ohms, usually the yellow and green wires coming from the Yoke. If yours is not between 6-12 ohm this chassis will not work!
2) Measure the horizontal ohms, it should measure over 1.5 ohms. If not you can take a 5 to 10 watt 1 ohms resistor and add it in series to the circuit to increase the ohms to get it over 1.5.
 
Hi there, after some years I´m finally about to finish my cabinet. Hopefully tonight.

After recapping this Kortek board I left it for quite a while without attending and now that I´m about to connect it, I can´t figure it out where to connect this last connector.

It comes out from the yoke with a smaller one and a ground cable. It has three cables, one red, one black and one white.

I know it´s a silly thing and I´m sorry, but I would really appreciate it guys if you could help me with this.




As you can see in the pictures, you can clearly see where the "smaller one" goes. (I think is some sort of RGB maybe?)
But I still wonder where the other one that seems to be an electrical one, goes.



Here you can see where the other connector that comes with the same cable connects in a very simple manner to the chassis.



But as you can see, the one I´m having trouble figuring out where to connect, does not appear on this helpful picture. I can´t seem to find any way to connect it to the chassis with it´s three pin design.

 
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