Help with Control Panel Restore

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I'm in the middle of restoring a SFII control panel and here is where I am right now:

CP+Bondo.jpg


I've read many threads over the years on how to apply a new overlay, cut plexi, etc, so I have an idea of what to do, but figured I'd post here for any last minute suggestions.

Phet probably posted the best short all-in-one explanation of the entire process for applying a new overlay in this thread:

The dishsoap/water mixture will not compromise the overall adhesive qualities of the CPO in the long run. On CPO's however, due to the nature of the sharp bends that an overlay must conform to, the wet method will make the adhesive less tacky at first, causing the overlay to not stick down at the bends and edges. In those cases, it will need to be clamped with plastic clamps. On overlays, I never use the wet method, as I don't think it's necessary. Just remove the buttons and joysticks, clean off the old overlay down to the metal and then remove the adhesive residue with brake cleaner. Sand smooth and give it a coat of primer and then a coat of satin black rustoleum spray paint. Let the paint cure at least 2-3 days, then apply the overlay. Most folks set the overlay in place, replace the buttons, then bend the over lay back at the button line, remove half of the backing, then cut off the piece of backing that you just peeled back conforming to a straight cut-off line. Now begin laying the overlay down, 1 inch at a time, using a rubber spreader or credit card to burnish it from the center down, then from the center to the edges, watching for bubbles and ripples. Don't go to hard or too fast, or you could end up sticking it down at the wrong angle. They are a bitch to peel back up and re-align if you screw up.

Thanks Phet :)

First a few questions for my specific scenario:

  1. You can see the bondo work (obviously) where the sheet metal is laying over the original panel (to see why this was done, see here). Due to this, there is a 'gap' on the corner, rather than the edge being rounded like it should be. If I wanted to try and shape this so that the overlay will apply better, what would be the best thing to do? If I put plexi over the top, do you think that would be sufficient since then that "gap" shouldn't be as noticeable?
  2. Because of all the bondo, is there anything else I should apply prior to spraying this thing down with rustoleum?
  3. Any recommendations on tools to use to cut the holes in the plexiglass? I already have the cutter to score/break the ends off to size.

Any other tips or suggestions before I get started?
 
Nothin'? No tips or suggestions?

Alright then.

doitlive.jpeg
 

Thanks, I missed that one somehow. Most of the threads I was looking at were even older. Very nice write up - looks like I've got some work cut out for me if I want to do it right. I think the part I'm the most concerned with is cutting the plexi - I tried it once and it didn't work out too well :p If needed, I suppose I can do that part later - I really just need to get the CPO on this damn thing...

Best part of your write up besides the being awesome part - reading it all in Statler's voice.
 
I think the part I'm the most concerned with is cutting the plexi - I tried it once and it didn't work out too well :p If needed, I suppose I can do that part later - I really just need to get the CPO on this damn thing...

A flush trim router bit cuts through plexi like butter without much chance of cracking it. It'll be more prone to cracking when you're drilling the holes to fit the router bit through.
 
Is it really plexi or acrylic? I bought a sheet of acrylic at Lowes and cut it on my tablesaw for a replacement Frogger bezel. I figured it could go either way, but no cracking, cut smooth as butter, but there was some smell of the acrylic heating up..kinda stunk.
 
A flush trim router bit cuts through plexi like butter without much chance of cracking it. It'll be more prone to cracking when you're drilling the holes to fit the router bit through.

I usually just stick the plunge base on the router and drop it down slowly. The higher RPM's a router produces pretty much melt the material as it cuts it.
 
Cutting it isn't too much trouble - I think the piece I've had forever is already cut to size. It's cutting the holes I'm concerned about. I bought the piece years ago and never got around to finishing it...just like with everything else :p I don't recall if it's actually plexi or acrylic, I'll need to dig it out and check.
 
Best part of your write up besides the being awesome part - reading it all in Statler's voice.

I think I often post like a grumpy old man so when I thought of that I changed my avatar to this a while back.
 
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