help with black knight gi issues

pinkpot

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ok bought a black knight from the pyramid scheme in grand rapids
everything cleaned up really nice and everything plays well.
there are no gi lights...
i have some playfield lights on under the platics but the
bonus lights magna save and all those playfield lights are not working...

changed all fuses in the whole machine
check all connectors they all seem fine (none are burned up or anything)
the left bumper by the left flipper the coil is burned out.

i know ive gotta change the coil...is this stopping the power for the gi by any chance?
the playfield lights under the plastics by that bumper kind of throb as if they are not getting enough power...

again ive checked and coonections and they seem fine new fuses...
still no gi lights...also the bottom set of lights (tilt etc) isnt working as well...
but the scoring lights work fine...

can anyone suggest what to do next??????????
thats all i need for it to be 100% and its a big downer to not have the playfield lighting...:(
 

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You have two issues - GI and playfield lights are NOT related.

Can you tell me what you did to check the connections? Did you ohm everything out? The connector at the LOWER RIGHT of the power supply is where the GI current flows. You must do this to confirm the connections, the Williams GI connections frequently fail and a visual check is not always a good indicator of operation.

Coils have nothing to do with GI, the coil may need changed but the damage probably goes back up into the driver board.

On playfield lights, you may have other driver board issues, which are common on these machines. I repair pinball boards of this type, if you need any assistance please feel free to ask.

Chris
 
it was a visual inspection as i was told the connectors maybe burnt, so i checked them
ill meter them and see whats up...i was assuming at a quick glance it was a driver board issue...
 
Just take it one problem at a time, things seem less daunting and it's easier to focus that way. Best thing is to trace your GI lighting from start to finish. Remember, it's all A/C voltage on the GI circuit, not DC.

Start at your power supply. Does your power supply have a relay on the bottom-right, with a bunch of yellow/white wires connected right there..... and most likely some very burned looking connectors? Like this one.....
http://www.siegecraft.us/the_siege_blog/blog/assets_c/2012/02/IMGP2106-922.html

If so, the connector on the bottom right of the board with two yellow wires, that's the AC input into the power supply. Set your DMM to AC voltage, and see what you get there. Should be around 6vac.

If voltage is good on the input, then move to the output on the connector just to the left of that one. Check the AC voltage between pins 1 and 9, should still be around 6vac.

-Hans
 
Just take it one problem at a time, things seem less daunting and it's easier to focus that way. Best thing is to trace your GI lighting from start to finish. Remember, it's all A/C voltage on the GI circuit, not DC.

Start at your power supply. Does your power supply have a relay on the bottom-right, with a bunch of yellow/white wires connected right there..... and most likely some very burned looking connectors? Like this one.....
http://www.siegecraft.us/the_siege_blog/blog/assets_c/2012/02/IMGP2106-922.html

If so, the connector on the bottom right of the board with two yellow wires, that's the AC input into the power supply. Set your DMM to AC voltage, and see what you get there. Should be around 6vac.

If voltage is good on the input, then move to the output on the connector just to the left of that one. Check the AC voltage between pins 1 and 9, should still be around 6vac.

-Hans

thanks ill check this todAY!!!
 
from what im figuring its the resistors on the lamp part of the driver board they are toasted...ordered new and gonna try to replace them...
 
from what im figuring its the resistors on the lamp part of the driver board they are toasted...ordered new and gonna try to replace them...

Toasted resistors are a fairly common issue on the driver boards, as they were spec'd at 2 watts, but are best replaced by 5 watt rated resistors.

What's more important is that the resistors may appear toasted, and still work - did you actually ohm them out? Again, visual inspection is insufficient.

Most importantly,these resistors have NOTHING to do with GI....

Chris
 
Toasted resistors are a fairly common issue on the driver boards, as they were spec'd at 2 watts, but are best replaced by 5 watt rated resistors.

What's more important is that the resistors may appear toasted, and still work - did you actually ohm them out? Again, visual inspection is insufficient.

Most importantly,these resistors have NOTHING to do with GI....

Chris

what is the proper amount of ohms should it read?
 
thru my gorgar driver in it for a minute to see whats up...got gi lights!
changed the coil on a bumper, still nothing.
and now some drop targets dont work...so im sure its also having some ps problems as well...(the gorgar driver is fully working in gorgar...)
gonna start running down the isues on the driver. got those resistorsin..looks like 2 bad solder spots (missing solder (doesnt seem to have a connection anymore)...
looks like its in the solenoids area...perhaps this is the bumper problem?
 
Could be that you have a stuck solenoid circuit, and solenoid circuit 11 controls the GI switching. Check transistors Q35 and Q17 on the driver board. Normally the relay is closed on the GI lights (meaning lights are on), and when the solenoid circuit fires, it opens the relay and shuts the light off.

Left slingshot is solenoid circuit 17, which is a 'special' solenoid. A bit more complicated circuit there.

-Hans
 
Could be that you have a stuck solenoid circuit, and solenoid circuit 11 controls the GI switching. Check transistors Q35 and Q17 on the driver board. Normally the relay is closed on the GI lights (meaning lights are on), and when the solenoid circuit fires, it opens the relay and shuts the light off.

Left slingshot is solenoid circuit 17, which is a 'special' solenoid. A bit more complicated circuit there.

-Hans

thanks much!!!
 
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