Help Wanted: Smash TV Isolation Transformer Refurb or Buy?

sure u can
the lines i told u about (purple/white or yellow) ? carry a isolated 117vac for the monitor
the switcher ac in can hook right to them along with the monitor

ed
 
Ok, makes sense. And even that two-prong connector with the yellow and white wires coming off the transformer should also read 5.9V and go to the coin door as well?

And I should be able to get a 2x 115V and ground to the power supply in the same way...
 
first, it's an isolation transformer; the game came with a K7000.

second, it IS the transformer that Smash TV came with.

third, Smash TV is a JAMMA game, of course it always used a switching power supply.

last, I already outlined what every single plug is in there last week. you need to crimp .093 pins and use according 3 pin plugs if you want it like original again.

follow the lengths of the wires. the shorter 3 wire set is for the power supply, the longer one running up the side of the cabinet is for the monitor. the 2 pin plug is for the coin door lights, whether it's 5.9V or 6.3V doesn't matter, it's enough to power the #555 lamps. a test to ensure which is the isolated side for the monitor would be to measure the neutral back to the neutral pin of plug (the fatter one) that goes into the wall. if it reads open, that's the isolated side. isolation transformers eliminate neutral running to the monitor, as doing so and connecting earth ground especially will blow the entire diode bridge out.

if you don't know how to crimp molex now would be a good time to learn, unless you want to hack it with wire nuts or something like thousands of people before you have done.
 
Ok, makes sense. And even that two-prong connector with the yellow and white wires coming off the transformer should also read 5.9V and go to the coin door as well?

And I should be able to get a 2x 115V and ground to the power supply in the same way...

yes the yellow and yellow/white go to the coin door for your coin door lights.
 
Do you know if it was available is a kit?

Smash TV came in 19", then 25", and kit trims. Williams made a lot of money off this game. if I'm not mistaken it was the first Y-unit game, which was the NARC hardware repurposed into a streamlined JAMMA configuration. the company was riding pretty high again by that point.

Williams used 2 different transformers in the post-classic generation: NARC (which was unique to that game), and everything else up until about Mortal Kombat 3. Smash TV falls into the latter category. it's not special. I've outlined almost everything there is to know about it now.
 
Smash TV wiring

So a quick update on this, and a question...

The voltage issues I was experiencing were traced back to cut wires meant for the top on/off toggle switch. Given they were cut, it was an open circuit so everything wasn't flowing, thus the lack of voltage I was seeing.

So I've put in a switch, and now we're looking good.

My question now is to ask for some help confirming the wiring to the monitor. From my layman's view, and looking at the attached schematic, I've got 3 feeds running out at 115v/120v/ They all seem like the same 3 wire bundle - and the existing length of wire would suggest what they go to (marquee light, monitor power, and switching power supply). Does it matter what goes to what - specifically I'm concerned about which goes to the monitor so it doesn't get fried.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
 
first, it's an isolation transformer; the game came with a K7000.

second, it IS the transformer that Smash TV came with.

third, Smash TV is a JAMMA game, of course it always used a switching power supply.

last, I already outlined what every single plug is in there last week. you need to crimp .093 pins and use according 3 pin plugs if you want it like original again.

follow the lengths of the wires. the shorter 3 wire set is for the power supply, the longer one running up the side of the cabinet is for the monitor. the 2 pin plug is for the coin door lights, whether it's 5.9V or 6.3V doesn't matter, it's enough to power the #555 lamps. a test to ensure which is the isolated side for the monitor would be to measure the neutral back to the neutral pin of plug (the fatter one) that goes into the wall. if it reads open, that's the isolated side. isolation transformers eliminate neutral running to the monitor, as doing so and connecting earth ground especially will blow the entire diode bridge out.

if you don't know how to crimp molex now would be a good time to learn, unless you want to hack it with wire nuts or something like thousands of people before you have done.

I think I may have even inquired about the switch on top via text too.
 
Thanks - you did and credit to you for helping me out. I'm slowly working my way through these, with limited time and some newbie knowledge - so thanks for jumping in.

I'm not 100% on your description of testing the isolated side for the monitor, but think I follow. I will try and work through that - thanks!
 
btw @Mecha - when you say "a test to ensure which is the isolated side for the monitor would be to measure the neutral back" what is 'neutral back"?

Thanks!!
 
Back
Top Bottom