help testing Asteroids Deluxe power supply

GaryMcT

GaryMcT

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I just got a working Asteroids Deluxe board after a cap blew on the original one (I'll try to repair the original one at some point). I want to make sure that the power supply and regulator board are good before plugging the new one in. Any recommended testing procedures? I can see on the schematic which wires are what voltage etc. I'm curious where you guys find is easiest to do the testing. Are there test points on the power supply itself? Do you test at the cable that is plugged into the main pcb?

Also, is the power supply identical between all Atari vector machines so that info that I find on the other ones apply?

Thanks for any help!
Gary
 
Dokert, you have any left? I'd be up for one if so. If there is a method for testing without, I wouldn't mind hearing about that too since I'm anxious. :)
 
GaryMcT said:
Dokert, you have any left? I'd be up for one if so. If there is a method for testing without, I wouldn't mind hearing about that too since I'm anxious. :)
Click to expand...

I will add you to the list.

Yes, it will take me a few minutes to type it all out for you.
 
Power Brick
Remove the big 15 pin connector P5

***V***V***
*1***2***3*
*4***5***6*
*7***8***9*
*10**11**12*
*13**14**15*
***********

Meter set to 20vdc
Red lead to pins 1, 2, 3
Black lead to pins 4, 5
Reading should be 10.3 vdc (could read high 13vdc as it is unregulated)

Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 6
Black lead to pin 7
Reading should be 36 vac

Meter set to 20vac
Red lead to pin 8
Black lead to pin 9
Reading should be 6.3vac

Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 10
Black lead to Pin 14
Reading should be 80vac

Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 11
Black lead to pin 13
Reading should be 65vac

A/R I
Remove the 9 pin connector P7 (P5 on the power brick must be plugged back in)

__^__^__
*1**2**3*
*4**5**6*
*7**8**9*
*********

Set meter to 20vdc
Red lead to pins 5, 6
Black lead to pins 1, 4
Reading should be +5vdc (could be as high as 7 or 8 vdc because there is no load)
 
F4 and F5 were blown, so I replaced them, and they didn't blow again upon powering up the power supply. F1, F3, and F6 all tested as OK via a connectivity test.

Here are the results with testing the power brick P5 connector:

Red lead to pins 1, 2, 3
Black lead to pins 4, 5
Reading should be 10.3 vdc (could read high 13vdc as it is unregulated)

Got 13.36 vdc

Red lead to pin 6
Black lead to pin 7
Reading should be 36 vac

Got 0 vac

Red lead to pin 8
Black lead to pin 9
Reading should be 6.3vac

Got 5.8 vac

Red lead to pin 10
Black lead to Pin 14
Reading should be 80vac

Got 0 vac

Red lead to pin 11
Black lead to pin 13
Reading should be 65vac

Got 0 vac

What would you do next?

Thanks!
Gary
 
Now that the multimeter has a new battery, I'm getting this 32.4 vac consistently between pins 6 and 7. The other two were 0 are still 0. Going to go stare the schematics to see if I can make any sense of that.
 
Thanks!

So here are the new/complete results. From looking at the schematic it looks like 10/12 and 13/15 want to be 60.1 vac, so I changed that too.

Do these all look close enough that I'm safe to plug in a working board to this? I was getting enough 60-cycle hum before that I think I still want to rebuild the AR. Should I do that first before plugging the working board in?

Here are the complete results including corrections:

Power Brick
Remove the big 15 pin connector P5

***V***V***
*1***2***3*
*4***5***6*
*7***8***9*
*10**11**12*
*13**14**15*
***********

Meter set to 20vdc
Red lead to pins 1, 2, 3
Black lead to pins 4, 5
Reading should be 10.3 vdc (could read high 13vdc as it is unregulated)

Got 13.36

Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 6
Black lead to pin 7
Reading should be 36 vac

Got 32.4 vac

Meter set to 20vac
Red lead to pin 8
Black lead to pin 9
Reading should be 6.3vac

Got 5.8 vac

Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 10
Black lead to Pin 12
Reading should be 60.1vac

Got 55.7 vac

Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 13
Black lead to pin 15
Reading should be 60.1vac

Got 55.6 vac

A/R I
Remove the 9 pin connector P7 (P5 on the power brick must be plugged back in)

__^__^__
*1**2**3*
*4**5**6*
*7**8**9*
*********

Set meter to 20vdc
Red lead to pins 5, 6
Black lead to pins 1, 4
Reading should be +5vdc (could be as high as 7 or 8 vdc because there is no load)

Got 5.19 vdc
 
GaryMcT said:
Thanks!

So here are the new/complete results. From looking at the schematic it looks like 10/12 and 13/15 want to be 60.1 vac, so I changed that too.

Do these all look close enough that I'm safe to plug in a working board to this? I was getting enough 60-cycle hum before that I think I still want to rebuild the AR. Should I do that first before plugging the working board in?

Here are the complete results including corrections:

Power Brick
Remove the big 15 pin connector P5

***V***V***
*1***2***3*
*4***5***6*
*7***8***9*
*10**11**12*
*13**14**15*
***********

Meter set to 20vdc
Red lead to pins 1, 2, 3
Black lead to pins 4, 5
Reading should be 10.3 vdc (could read high 13vdc as it is unregulated)

Got 13.36

Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 6
Black lead to pin 7
Reading should be 36 vac

Got 32.4 vac

Meter set to 20vac
Red lead to pin 8
Black lead to pin 9
Reading should be 6.3vac

Got 5.8 vac

Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 10
Black lead to Pin 12
Reading should be 60.1vac

Got 55.7 vac

Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 13
Black lead to pin 15
Reading should be 60.1vac

Got 55.6 vac

A/R I
Remove the 9 pin connector P7 (P5 on the power brick must be plugged back in)

__^__^__
*1**2**3*
*4**5**6*
*7**8**9*
*********

Set meter to 20vdc
Red lead to pins 5, 6
Black lead to pins 1, 4
Reading should be +5vdc (could be as high as 7 or 8 vdc because there is no load)

Got 5.19 vdc
Click to expand...

This whole post help out understanding Dave's new test harness for me. It really made everything crystal.
 
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