Help restore and update Ms Pacman Cocktail

FieldDog1

New member
Joined
Sep 18, 2009
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Florida
Hi well Im new to the forum need your help. I have a 1981 Ms. Pacman Cocktail that I just bought but needs some work. I am trying to make this look like an orginal ms. pacman but have the 60 in 1 jamma. The arcade has a few problems, I included the link to the exact one I bought that explains the problem better.

Sooo... I really dont want to use the orginal power supply and would like to update it to the Computer ATX type. I would like to do as little rewiring as possible and I have no problem buying the pacman to jamma converters and so forth. So what is the best way to do this? Is there any way to use the orginal pacman harness, and just connect the adaptor and 60in1 jamma to the power supply using molex connections?

Im also planning to buy a new montitor (any recomedations on which one to buy and where to buy without a transformer would be great). How do you connect the monitor to the power supply? Is it a simple plug and play type thing.

Im trying to leave the internals without having to rewire the complete machine. ANY help will be greatly appreciated. Or is there a far easier way to do this. Thanks!


http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-1981-MS...u=SI%2BUA%2BLM%2BLA&otn=5&ps=63#ht_500wt_1182
 
Welcome and nice get on that cocktail at the price! First, your going to have a hard time restoring it to look like an original Ms. Pac-man since it is actually a Pac-man cocktail in those pictures. The art on the glass doesn't align with the openings, etc. I would recommend restoring it to Pac-man as it has the right control panels already. You would need to replace the glass top and get the Pac-man underlay art. The Ms. Pac-art on it is in pretty good condition, but looks factory screened onto the glass.

Anyway, I would recommend leaving the GO7 monitor in there and just getting a tube with less burn and swapping it in. If you try to stick another monitor in there, you can have a pain mounting it, etc. You can still get tubes for a GO7 that have been rebuilt and look brand new.

As far as the wiring goes, using the original power supply with the Lizardlick Pac-man cabinet adaptor is the easiest. It costs a little more at $59, but it adapts the harness to Jamma and converts the power off the original power block. Scroll down until you see the red board.

http://www.lizardlick.com/pages/boards.shtml

Unfortunately, if you want any games with that use one or more buttons, you will have to modify the control panels, add buttons, and wire them to the harness. Arcadeshop can probably provide modified panels if you don't want to cut the originals. Of course it adds up doing that as they will also need art.

Generally speaking, I recommend that people buy Galaga or similar cocktails so they get a button without modifying the game.

Good Luck...

-VJ
 
Oh, it looks like that thing is missing the leg levelers. The wood isn't supposed to be touching the ground. It is a visual skirt for the game with the actually support being on the leg levelers.

Also, here is a link to some pictures of my restoration of a Pac-man cocktail that was a Ms. Pac conversion. ;)

Pac-man cocktail restore
 
WOW I really appreciate this, I learned a lot from you project. Its amazing how well you restored your pacman machine. For now, Im going to go ahead and leave the ms pacman underlay, and I plan on installing one more button on each side.

Ok So looking at yours, I would like to swap my old power supply for the type you have, I found one for cheap around $25. Is it easy to just swap it? Do I need to solder anything?

Well I hate the idea of having the monitor use the transformer, the thing went up in smoke and I would like one of those ones that dont need an external transformer. Plus the thing has terrible burn in. I would like a brand new monitor that will last for a long time. I found a few monitors on this site that will work, but then how does it connect to the power supply? Is it simple plug and play or advanced wiring? Which monitor would be the least amount of problems? Thanks!

http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm
 
I have a couple of YouTube videos of my Ms. Pac upright with the 48-in-1, somewhat similar to what you are doing. I use the original wiring harness with an adapter from JAMMA boards and a switching PS. I do recommend that setup over the LL adapter myself. Also the JAMMA boards adapter has jumper settings that will allow you to use start buttons as fire buttons without any hacks, not sure how that would work in a cocktail though. Anyway feel free to check them out if you want some of my opinions.

Many arcade monitors require an isolation transformer, which wont be an issue if you intend to leave your original wiring intact. With the multicade, you can also use a VGA monitor which will be plug and play with or without the iso xformer. In any event, be sure you know how to properly discharge a monitor before repairing or replacing one.
 
WOW I really appreciate this, I learned a lot from you project. Its amazing how well you restored your pacman machine. For now, Im going to go ahead and leave the ms pacman underlay, and I plan on installing one more button on each side.

Ok So looking at yours, I would like to swap my old power supply for the type you have, I found one for cheap around $25. Is it easy to just swap it? Do I need to solder anything?

Well I hate the idea of having the monitor use the transformer, the thing went up in smoke and I would like one of those ones that dont need an external transformer. Plus the thing has terrible burn in. I would like a brand new monitor that will last for a long time. I found a few monitors on this site that will work, but then how does it connect to the power supply? Is it simple plug and play or advanced wiring? Which monitor would be the least amount of problems? Thanks!

http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm

My pac-man is using the same transformer that was in the pictures of yours. It is the stock transformer block. One thing about having a monitor that will last a really long time.... The GO7 that is in there is one of the best chassis to have in most collectors and preservationists minds. They last for a very long time and can easily be rebuilt with new replacement parts if needed. You can get a rebuilt tube to put in there that will look band spanking new with no burn, new guns, etc for just a little more than you are going to pay for a new monitor. You have to swap the tube out, but then you have what looks like a brand new GO7 instead of a brand new Chinese monitor that might last a year or less before crapping out. Some of the new monitors from Betson are going out days after installation according to folks on here unfortunate to get them. They were waiting for Betson to address the issue the last time I saw anything posted on here.

Anyway, here is the tube you need to order if you want to go with keeping the GO7.

https://www.hbfelectronics.com/index.php?action=proc_search&search_string=19VMJP22

They charge about $35 to ship the tubes and they come in real tube boxes so it will be protected during shipping. They look brand new on the screen and the guns are new on the inside.

Obviously you can tell from mine I went the multi-pac route. You could do that with the tube, and a kit for the existing board. That way the machine is essentially stock plus the kit. In general my recommendations are about keeping it original as possible and as restorable as possible. Sort of a do no harm in case the next person wants to do the job.

You could opt to not buy a new tube and find a donor TV that is a compatible 19" tube. You can get them cheap or free and many people swear by that method. Other people complain that they cannot find the right tubes and bring home a bunch of non-compatbile TVs in the process. I order the tubes because I don't have the time for the hunt on something like that. Maybe someday I will hit the goodwill and look for 19" TVs. :)

-VJ
 
thanks again you guys are a wealth of knowledge. Ok but what went wrong in this machine then? Why would the transformer start smoking and burn up? And im new to this and transfering tubes seems almost frightening. Is it really difficult to replace? Is there any kind of manual for such an operation? Also here is a vid of how the monitor looked before the transfomer blew.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzhVctjZrAM
 
One more question? What about one of those 19" cherry master monitors? I found one on craigslist cheap and its brand new. You really dont recommend any of the 19" CGA Monitors with no isolation transformer required?
 
thanks again you guys are a wealth of knowledge. Ok but what went wrong in this machine then? Why would the transformer start smoking and burn up? And im new to this and transfering tubes seems almost frightening. Is it really difficult to replace? Is there any kind of manual for such an operation? Also here is a vid of how the monitor looked before the transfomer blew.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzhVctjZrAM

Keep in mind that this site and VAPS are mainly about restoration of classic games. You do what you have to do, but much of the advice will be to do no harm (or as little as possible).

Are you sure the transformer on the powr block is what went out? Those things don't normally go out. The flyback on the monitor probably went out. In fact if the person probably put a cap kit in the monitor to sell it without a new flyback which makes them prone to almost imediat failure.

Do you have a multimeter? If not are you willing to buy one and learn how to use it? Testing thevoltages off of the transformers is easy. The person that sold you game probably doesn't have a clue what is wrong. That black transformer looks normal. Go look at my pictures again. That thing is coated and looks burned but is not. The wires off of it fine too as far as I can tell from the low quality pictures.

Respect the tube, and read up onhow to discharge the monitor and it is not a big deal. There are even videos on you tube that show you how to do the discharge.

Anyway, I would start a troubleshooting thread in the general repair forum. You can find out what is actually wrong with the game and then decide what to do. My money is on you needing a deluxe rebuild kit for the GO7 which costs something like $30 or so (on my phone or I wild check real quick).

So start a repair thead and post the link here. If you don't have a multimeter, we can help you pick the right one for you. You really only need a $5 one from harbor freight or something if this is the only game your going to mess with.

-VJ
 
One more question? What about one of those 19" cherry master monitors? I found one on craigslist cheap and its brand new. You really dont recommend any of the 19" CGA Monitors with no isolation transformer required?

The Hap Vision pro monitors were used by lots of folks but those are pretty pricey if you can even find one since they are discontinued. I'm not sure about the quality on the cherry master monitors. It might actually be the Betson monitor I mentioned. Some people might call them that be cause the 8-liner type dealers sell them. It would hurt to find out the exact model of the one near you. If you are in DFW, it is probably Crazy Hugo selling them and they would be Betson since he was trying to unload a pallette or two of them.

Where are you located? That is good for us to know since there might be someone nearby that can help on the hard stuff if it comes to that.

-VJ

Edit: I see the auction was in Fl. Was 8liners.com selling the monitors? I think those are not Betson, but are still Chinese monitors and not as good long term. Very nice picture out of the box and the main issue is if it will mount easy.

Edit Again: I'm officially an idiot telling you to start a repair thread when this is in the repair forum. :rolleyes: So, do you have a meter?
 
Last edited:
thanks again you guys are a wealth of knowledge. Ok but what went wrong in this machine then? Why would the transformer start smoking and burn up? And im new to this and transfering tubes seems almost frightening. Is it really difficult to replace? Is there any kind of manual for such an operation? Also here is a vid of how the monitor looked before the transfomer blew.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzhVctjZrAM

The only problem the monitor had is called a humbar. Most of the time the humbar comes from a poor connection from the fuse to the fuse holder or poor ground. You should run down to radio shack and just buy and replace the fuse holder anyway. Why the ISO toasted - who knows. While your at radio shack buy a new one.

Here's a few pics of my $70.00 Ms pacman purchase and restore progress.
She's cherried out now with a 96-1 in it. (started with a lizardlick 24-1)
http://samandtrinity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=253&g2_page=1
 
Last edited:
After looking it up Im not going to try to repair this monitor. Im somewhat limited on tools and in a beach apartment. Ive been looking for monitors and found a few Happ 19" for $200. But I think Im going to go ahead and get the one from this site, one of the 19" if it will work.

So once I get this, can I just swap it out, and plug it? Thanks again guys for your help.

http://www.genao.com/osc/catalog/index.php?cPath=22
 
After looking it up Im not going to try to repair this monitor. Im somewhat limited on tools and in a beach apartment. Ive been looking for monitors and found a few Happ 19" for $200. But I think Im going to go ahead and get the one from this site, one of the 19" if it will work.

So once I get this, can I just swap it out, and plug it? Thanks again guys for your help.

http://www.genao.com/osc/catalog/index.php?cPath=22


You might have to swap the tube and chassis into the other frame (maybe).
OTherwise hell yes it'll work. Try reading the 8liners review found in the genera discussion thread.
 
Back
Top Bottom