HELP!! Resetting Power ARII Power Supply Crystal Castles Cocktail

Find Waldo2 (rectifier) - under the brick. (Also in the NW corner)

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Thanks VectorCollector - I'm either going insane or in the twilight zone. I don't remember seeing that part on the board, but now looking at the schematic (Q1 LM305), I clearly see it designated. I'll need to check that once I get home. Must be the soldering fumes...
 
Thanks - I had the brick out yesterday to replace the big blue. Here is a shot of mine that I took.
 

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Thanks - I had the brick out yesterday to replace the big blue. Here is a shot of mine that I took.

that looks like the cheap plastic case BR in your top left of the picture. if Ian doesn't have any parts i stock them all if you need anything.
 
Actually - many of the phenolic case bridge rectifiers with heat slugs are *better* than the full metal ones. They usually have similar junction-to-case thermal resistance (1.4 - 1.5 range). But the full metal ones always have much rougher tops (mounting surface) which results in a considerably higher case-to-sink thermal resistance. That's why Diodes Inc had always been my bridge rectifier of choice - glass smooth heat slug. Too bad Diodes Inc discontinued them. Managed to snag several cases of them when they went EOL, though.
 
Also, regardless of which BR you use, you want to use a good thermal grease when mounting it to the brick, to help transfer heat to the brick chassis, which will help keep the BR cool.

(Though in this case, I would measure the actual 10.3V before replacing it, as I don't suspect that's your problem. Usually when BR's fail, they short and blow fuses. Or they go open, but either way, they completely stop working. There usually is no in between.)
 
Thanks for all the great advice and have some great news: After getting some great advice here and on KLOV I finally figured out how to test the +5v on Power Supply. Discovered it was pretty high at 5.9/6.1 - adjusted down and its working now. Not sure if the rebuild of the ARII was actually necessary now, but it was a good learning experience and it can't hurt. Only thing now is a slightly "wavy" screen, it seems a bit uncentered and there is some "fading" of the colors on the left hand side SEE HERE: https://youtu.be/1_Y1uGgkAIU

Any Ideas - will a cap kit on the monitor fix this stuff?

Thanks in advance
 
After getting some great advice here and on KLOV I finally figured out how to test the +5v on Power Supply. Discovered it was pretty high at 5.9/6.1 - adjusted down and its working now. Not sure if the rebuild of the ARII was actually necessary now, but it was a good learning experience and it can't hurt. Only thing now is a slightly "wavy" screen, it seems a bit uncentered and there is some "fading" of the colors on the left hand side SEE HERE: https://youtu.be/1_Y1uGgkAIU

Any Ideas - will a cap kit on the monitor fix this stuff?

Thanks in advance!
 
Rebuilding the ARII was necessary. It's pretty much a mandatory step in refurbing an Atari game whether it's a current problem or not. I typically include the bridge in that process too but not everybody does. I've had a lot of bridges blow on games that have been pulled from long term storage.
 
Thanks Chad! I'm going to make sure I include the Bridge in any future replacements. Everybody's help here was amazing.
 
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