HELP!! Resetting Power ARII Power Supply Crystal Castles Cocktail

KevyKev

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HELP!! Resetting Power ARII Power Supply Crystal Castles Cocktail

Hello KLOV! Need your help

My Crystal Castles Cocktail crapped out a couple of months ago and after reaching out to John's Arcade, the community there suggested I should rebuild the power supply and replace the "Big Blue" on the Brick. Both were done over the weekend, but I still have the same problem. It ban be seen HERE:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1-1IBB_8BM


If anyone has any thoughts I'd sure appreciate it! Thanks in advance!

Kevykev
 
What specifically did you do to rebuild the power supply? It looks like the AR is not regulating properly.

If you didn't replace the 3055 bottlecap on the AR, that should be your first thing. If that doesn't fix it, you'll need to replace the LM305 regulator on the AR.

Also, what is the 10.3V test point on the AR reading while the 5V is jumping around? Btw, you really shouldn't connect that AR to the game board while it's not regulating like that, as if it blows completely, you can potentially end up sending 12V to your game board. You ideally should test the AR with a dummy load, as you can't always tell if they're working properly with no load, and you shouldn't risk your board as a test load.

I have replacement rebuilt AR's too, if you don't want to repair it yourself.
 
Thanks for the reply. I used one of the rebuild kits from Ian Kellog's site. It included both replacements for the C9 and C10 3300. I don't know how to test the power supply's voltage w/o the PCB. Can you tell me how to do that? This is the first rebuild of an arcade I've ever undertaken, so some nomenclature is unfamiliar to me. Thanks!
 
I was referring to the 2N3055 transistor (the thing in the middle of the heatsink). If you didn't replace that, then that's the first thing you should replace, assuming the input to the AR (which you can observe on the 10.3V test point) is stable, and reading somewhere between 11-13V DC.

Caps rarely fail on these, as Atari used very good ones, and they are well-rated for the application. It's the regulator and the power transistor that most often go, under normal circumstances. You could also have a bad connection somewhere, or other issues, but if all of that is solid, it's most likely the 2N3055 or LM305. I'm not sure if either of those are in Ian's kit. (I thought the 3055 was, but am not positive.) Make sure you don't have any burned resistors on the board, particularly R29 and R30.

Testing the AR with a dummy load instead of the board is a little involved. You need a 1-ohm 10-25W power resistor (ideally mounted on a heatsink), plus a couple of jumper wires, to jump the SENSE signals, and a bench power supply capable of 12-14V. I've repaired hundreds of these, and have them available (see link in my sig).
 
Thanks Again. I did replace the 2N3055 (Q3) resistor as well as R29 and R30 (all included in Ian's Kitt). I appreciate the offer, and may take you up on it, right now I'm committed to figuring this one out until I can't take it anymore! Thanks again, Kevin.
 
I'm sorry. Another question: Is there a way to test the power supply output directly from the ARII? If so how? Can an ARII power supply by turned up or down? I don't think so unless you replace it with a switching PS - Correct?
 
The LM305 is the tin can thing with 8 legs.

You should verify that the 10.3V input to the AR is ok. It should be somewhere between 11-13V roughly, and not really jumping around. You should also measure the amount of AC ripple on it, buy setting your meter to AC volts, and measuring the 10.3V test point. Post your results for DC and AC here, if you want.

Were the R29 and/or R30 resistors burned before you replaced them?
 
I'm sorry. Another question: Is there a way to test the power supply output directly from the ARII? If so how? Can an ARII power supply by turned up or down? I don't think so unless you replace it with a switching PS - Correct?



Yes, you can measure the +5V on the lower (+) leg of C1, relative to the GND test point, without the game board plugged in. You may find that the voltage is stable without the game board, but then wigs out once it's plugged in.

You can use the pot on the AR to adjust the 5V level. I should also mention that those pots get dirty and do fail, so you want to clean them with DeOxit, and/or replace them, as that could also easily be your problem. I replace them with new sealed pots on all of the AR's I rebuild, so dirt can't get inside them. At the very least, wipe it all the way back and forth a few times, which can clean it somewhat, though it works better with DeOxit. Then check the 5V with the game board unplugged.

You can't easily replace AR's with switchers, as the AR also contains the audio power amps for the speakers, so they're more than just a PS. There are also several different types of AR-II's, and others supply additional voltages needed by the game board. In your case, CC uses an AR-II-01, which only provides +5V, and the audio amplification, so there are no extra voltages.

Repairing the AR is easier and less work than trying to hack in a switcher anyway.
 
Really helpful information thank you so much. I feel stupid asking but I don't remember anything on the ARII board that had 8 legs...does it have a designation on the CC Manual schematic (i.e Q3, R29, R30,etc.)?
 
Did you rebuild the power block itself? If those guys only told you to rebuild the ARII then it didn't address the possibility that you have a crappy bridge rectifier feeding the ARII.
 
OK - on the PCB, not the ARII. Q1 (according to the manual) is:
350mW, 60 V, Switching NPN Transistor, Part#: 34-2N3904.
 
Did you rebuild the power block itself? If those guys only told you to rebuild the ARII then it didn't address the possibility that you have a crappy bridge rectifier feeding the ARII.



This is why I asked to see the voltages on the 10.3V test point, as that will tell us if the brick is ok or not.
 
Didn't do anything to the block (if you mean the Brick). Just replaced the Big Blue. I'll need to look at the schematic to locate the "Bridge Rectifier" not sure where or what that is.
 
This is why I asked to see the voltages on the 10.3V test point, as that will tell us if the brick is ok or not.


Word. I usually just swap the bridge on the Atari games anyway. Even if the bridge was okay when I got them half my Atari games killed their bridges in short order. Probably from them sitting unused for so long before I got them. Cheap part, good insurance.
 
Sorry - you must be very frustrated dealing with me! I don't see Q1 on the AR. The schematic has O2 (Type-TIP32 PNP Power Transistor - PN# 33-TIP32) which I did replace - but I can't find a Q1. I'll look again when I get home....
 
I'll have to locate the Bridge Rectifier - is that on the AR, Brick or somewhere else?
 
Find Waldo (LM305 octopussy) ... just NorthWest of the yellow/orange ADJ POT ...

AR2_1.jpg


:cool:
 
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