Help needed with Gauntlet Dark Legacy and Sportstation multigame Conv. problem

ccatalyst

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Help needed with Gauntlet Dark Legacy and Sportstation multigame Conv. problem

Hello everyone, i am hoping someone can help me with this, This is going to read more like an instruction manual that a cry for help, so i appoligize in advance for the long read, but i hope that this document helps all who read it, and hopefully can help me get the final answer to my problem.
Hence we begin our tale, A few months ago i purchased a gauntlet dark legacy cabinet with a medium res 27" monitor,the cabinet is in excellent shape and the game plays well, but it gets a little tiring sometimes and i started looking for other options for this cabinet, after a few weeks of research i decided to aquire an nba showtime board set, seeing that they are both medium res games, and both use the 49 ways joysticks and the same # of buttons, i thought, hey why not put them both in the same cabinet and use a switcher between them so i can play both game as neccesary with having to go through the painful process of moving my cabinet and removing boards, etc, etc. blood , sweat and tears.

So i began my project, the first thing i did is buy the upgrade kit for the nba showtime, to convert it into a sportstation ver 3.0.This would now give me 3 games, GL, blitz 2000 gold and nba on showtime, an added plus to my project, i got this upgrade from arcade-services1 on ebay, it came as a complete kit and had the marquee to boot, I changed out the security chip, eprom and hard drive, booted it up and it worked fine, so i was now ready to continue. i opened up my Gauntlet cabinet and made sure i could fit both boardsets in their entirety, since they were both still bolted to their metal bases, it would make it easy to just slide them in

before i continue, I have this note to add to anyone attempting to do this same multi game conversion, even though both games use the same exact boards, their video cards are different, some people have posted you can get a replacement to use in the nba game for $40, good luck finding that, i looked everywhere, and i dont just mean ebay , i mean EVERYWHERE, i could not find this card nowhere, so keep that in mind if you are going to decide to proceed with a project like this, also make sure your board set comes with both the i-40 and the aux board,as well as the wiring that goes between the joysticks and the i-40, this is also a must, and will greatly simplify you running around trying to find out what goes where or finding an obscure part that doesnt exist anywhere but in some guys basement in lower botswana.

And thus my tale continues.

I ended up doing this, pardon the crappy ascii drawing, but you are now looking at the cabinet from the rear.

------------------
| |
| |
| | monitor back |
| | |
| | |
| -------------------
|
| <sportstation boardset
|
------------------ <existing gauntlet boardset.

After bolting in the sportstation boardset into the side of the cabinet , i still had plenty of room to manuver and work in the cabinet. I needed a jamma switcher, so i ordered 1 from mikes arcade, i had also ordered a jamma extension from mike, but found out pretty quickly that it would not work properly with this game. Now remember i bought the complete nba boardset, that included the i40 board, the tiny aux board and the cables going from the joysticks and buttons to the i40 board, but when i hooked it up to the jamma harness that came with the switcher, i had all sorts of left over connectors and the joysticks would not move properly, the manuals for both gl and sportstation were also no help in finding out where these molex wires went, after some more research i found out i needed a special jamma harness made specifically for these sports games that have i40 boards in them, i ordered this special jamma harness once again from arcade-services1, when it arrived, i noticed i could not plug it directly into the jamma switcher, as this new harness looks like a standard jamma harness with a bunch of molex connectors on it and ending in the plain cables ends, i needed a female end to plug this harness into the jamma switcher, so i had to end up cutting 1 of the ends off the jamma extender that came with the switcher and soldered it onto the new jamma harness that came from arcade-services1, i hooked it up and powered it on, immedietly i noticed that the video was screwed up, after some further diagnostics, i realized that i have to reverse the pins on the harness in order to get them to work properly with the switcher, so i undid all the pins except for the power connections and rewired it like this

original
---------------

top

red blue ground
green sync

bottom

changed to this
----------------------

top

green sync
red blue ground

bottom

i had to do this for the entire harness to correctly get the connections where they needed to be. I hooked up all the molex connectors from the new jamma harness into the molex connectors hanging close to the i40 board, but now i had another dilema, i needed to wire in this new jamma harness to connect with the existing joytick and buttons connectors that are already in use in the gauntlet cabinet. I first tried pluging in the joystick connector as is from the sportstation harness into joystick 1, when i powered up the game, i noticed that the joystick was working but strangely,

Instead of this

up
left right
down

it was giving me this


right
up down
left

it did this on every joystick and every harness i tried from #1 through 4, I was acting as the joysticks had been rotated 1 turn counter clockwise, so i thought, well i can rearrange the wires and it might fix it, so first i hooked up the wires according to their correct color code, both guantlet dl and sportstation use the same color codes for the joysticks, so i just spliced in the joystick wires from the sportstation loom into the existing gauntlet joystick wire loom.When i did that the joystick was acting just like i described in the above diagram. so i tried reversing the cables, on the sportstation side of the loom,

note this following diagram is for player 1 only, this following color connection chart will give you the joystick response listed above. They're connected to their matching colors on the gauntlet joystick loom, so for example white will be wired into white, white/black is wired into white black, etc.

original wire connection

sportstation gauntlet side

wht - start 1 wht - start 1
wht/black - u/d bit 0 wht/black - u/d bit 0
wht/brown - u/d bit 1 wht/brown - u/d bit 1
white/red - u/d bit 2 white/red - u/d bit 2
white/orange - u/d DIR bit white/orange - u/d DIR bit
white/yellow - L/R bit 0 white/yellow - L/R bit 0
white/green - L/R bit 1 white/green - L/R bit 1
white/blue - L/R bit 2 white/blue - L/R bit 2
white/violet - L/R DIR Bit white/violet - L/R DIR Bit


I changed it to this

sportstation gauntlet side

wht - start 1 wht - start 1
white/yellow - L/R bit 0 wht/black - u/d bit 0
white/green - L/R bit 1 wht/brown - u/d bit 1
white/blue - L/R bit 2 white/red - u/d bit 2
white/violet - L/R DIR Bit white/orange - u/d DIR bit
wht/black - u/d bit 0 white/yellow - L/R bit 0
wht/brown - u/d bit 1 white/green - L/R bit 1
white/red - u/d bit 2 white/blue - L/R bit 2
white/orange - u/d DIR bit white/violet - L/R DIR Bit


now in case you do not understand the way the above looms are coming together here is a diagram

original setup, joysticks work, but rotated counterclock wise. 90 degrees.

sportstation
white/black wire
---------------------------------\
\
\
------------> to white/black joystick
/
/
--------------------------------/
gauntlet dl
white/black wire


new setup

sportstation
white/yellow wire
---------------------------------\
\
\
------------> to white/black joystick wire
/
/
--------------------------------/
gauntlet dl
white/black wire



Now the new wiring worked fine for the left and right, but the up and down were reversed, they worked ok, but their dirrections were such, as when you push up it goes down and vice versa. I confirmed that the wires are going to right places, but i cannot seem to find out how to reverse the up and down connections, i think that if i can a way to get whatever signal is coming out of the white/violet wire-under the new setup to invert it's signal it may correct my problem, everything else is working properly, but the joysticks Up - down wont work properly, there is 1 more problem for me to correct after this which has to do the wiring of the speakers, you see mike's switcher does not switch both speakers, only 1, so i need to build a circuit to interface with his swicther to also switch the remaining speaker, but the joystick problem is the one that is really kicking my hiney. If anyone out there has any ideas, please post , i am looking forward to all replies. And hope this helps anyone out there looking to try this project also.

Many Thanks in advance
Rick.
 
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> I needed a jamma switcher, so i ordered 1 from mikes arcade, i had also ordered a jamma extension from mike, but found out pretty quickly that it would not work properly with this game.

Did Mike's jamma switcher work correctly with GDL, just not with the other boards? Just curious.
 
I had to add 2 wires to it in order for it to work properly with GDL, button 4, is NOT wired in the harness from mike's arcade or on the switcher, so i had to add that in order for the joysticks in GDL to work, believe it or not, there seems to be signal that goes through the 4th button player 1 jamma connector, and if you do not have it, then the joysticks will not work, funny thing though is that sportstation board set, does not require that connection in order for it work, so it seems it is only needed for gdl, but it is a simple enough fix, just solder the wire in place bettewen the 4th button position and the harness connector, and then finally run a wire all the way to the end of the harness, what you are basically doing is adding the cable to make it work.
 
Ok an update for those of you following along, as i stated before, i have almost everything working except for the up and down which are reversed, now for those of you who are new to 49 way joysticks, think of it as a 7x7 grid with the joystick in the center, #1 would be top left and #49 would be bottom right. if you move the joystick slightly up, then it give you a 10 or 11, and push all the way to the top and it will give you a 3 or 4, push it down and it will give you a 38 or 39 push all the way down and it will give you a 45 or 46, by looking at this diagram you can clearly see what i mean, my joystick is centered on 24

1--2--3--4--5---6--7
8--9--10-11-12-13-14
15-16-17-18-19-20-21
22-23-24-25-26-27-28
29-30-31-32-33-34-35
36-37-38-39-40-41-42
43-44-45-46-47-48-49

so when i push it a bit up , not all the way, it shows 10, all the way up it shows 3, I hope that helped cleared up how this joysticks work, it basically gives you a bit better control than standard 8 way joysticks can accomplish.
So on with my story. As i had said i have everything working, the joysticks are showing me the proper #'s but the up and down #'s are correct but inverted. I remember a while ago, building a video sync inverter circuit using a 7404 chip, it was pretty simple, i used it for popeye and several different nintendo games that had their sync's inverted. And it had worked like a charm for them, so i thought, heck why not, lets give it a shot,It inverted a video sync signal maybe it can invert the joystick signal, now i do NOT claim to be an electronics wizard by any means, in fact i admit i am only a hobbiest, i know how to read schematics, i know the ohm color codes and basic gate & transistor functions, but i am no expert by any means, so please forgive my ignorance if what i am about to write freaks any of the true experts out.

I got the 7404 chip and wired it as such

vcc to 5v on the joystick
14

|-----------------|
|-----7404-------|
|-----------------|

1 2 output- to joystick 7 to ground on the joystick
input
wht/violet wire from pcb harness

now when i did that above wiring , which should be correct, it did nothing, everything was still reversed, and i though, gee maybe i have the input and output wires backwards, so i reversed them, the wht/violet wire which goes to the U/D Dir instead of going to pin 1, i now ran it to pin 2, and the wire that goes into the joystick U/D dir, i now hooked it up to pin 1, now this is the opposite of the way you are supposed to hook up a 7404 hex inverter, but i tried it anyways, and it partially worked, what i mean by partially, is now the up worked perfect, it gives me the correct #'s when i push it slightly up and all the way up, but when i push slightly down it jumps straight to the bottom which is #45, it does not capture the # in between which would be normally 38, but at least the joystick is now properly inverted, and i have 3 out of 4 sides working correctly, i do not understand why it is working with the wires inverted like that, but i am going to go and try and pick up some high speed inverters and ls series , to try and see if any of those make a difference, if anyone of the true experts have any ideas on how i may get this to work without guessing , i would greatly appreciate it, as im going crazy trying to guess on how to get these damn joysticks to work properly, now i can always just pop open the control panel and remove the 4 screws holding the opto board in place and rotate it 90 degree and bolt it back together, but i would have to do that for 4 joysticks everytime i want to change the games and if i can get it to work properly through a circuit, it would make it oh so convienient, So as we keep trodding along we are getting closer to completing the project but not quite there yet.
 
I had to add 2 wires to it in order for it to work properly with GDL, button 4, is NOT wired in the harness from mike's arcade or on the switcher, so i had to add that in order for the joysticks in GDL to work, believe it or not, there seems to be signal that goes through the 4th button player 1 jamma connector, and if you do not have it, then the joysticks will not work, funny thing though is that sportstation board set, does not require that connection in order for it work, so it seems it is only needed for gdl, but it is a simple enough fix, just solder the wire in place bettewen the 4th button position and the harness connector, and then finally run a wire all the way to the end of the harness, what you are basically doing is adding the cable to make it work.

Ah, I see what you're talking about now. What threw me initially is that only the start buttons for p1 and p2 are run through the jamma harness -- all of the other buttons are handled separately off of different cables for a dedicated GDL game.

When I looked up player 1, button 4 on a standard jamma chart it correlated to lines c and 25. When I cross referenced that with the GDL jamma chart it makes total sense that the joysticks didn't work with those lines missing as this is the player 1/2 L/R direction bit. (see chart)

BTW, I recently solved a related issue with my Gauntlet Legends game -- I wanted to share that cab and game with other boards and I had similar issues to work through but I opted to convert GL to standard 8 way sticks so that I had more selection of other games to choose from. I ended up learning a lot more about the GL wiring than I ever wanted to know. :)

I'm guessing that at least some of those "extra molex plugs" will have to carry the p1-p4 buttons that are routed onto different non-Jamma cables for GDL. I'm surprised that they would work on GDL with the jamma switcher because the jamma switcher isn't going to be aware of their existence. Have you tested this scenario yet where you have GDL hooked up to the jamma switcher and verified that the buttons work correctly for p1 and p2?
 

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Well, im still stick struggling with correcting the joysticks up/down problem, however i can see your point at least partially, you are correct in that none of the joysticks or buttons from the sportstation go to the jamma harness, but on the GDL they DO, and it does switch over when i press the 1 & 2 player simultaneously. But i cannot swicth back as the sportstation 1 & 2 player buttons do not go through the jamma at all, i guess i will have to hard wire in a switch to the switcher to select the game.

Rick
 
Ok, back to working on our build, i figured out why the inverter was working in reverse, or so i thought. Basically i was misinterpreting what was going on, let me explain. You see i was thinking of the joysticks as the plain old analog switches, and the pcb board as the line that would go to the input, thinking that a switch would not give off a signal to invert in the first place, but after some rest and looking at it again, i remembered that these are digital joysticks and a signal is emitted from them as they are powered devices, so their output would go into the inverter and then the inverters output would go into the pcb. So that clears up that little dilema. I went today and picked up 4 different inverters, and after trying them all out, they all gave me Exactly the same results as the 7404. up is correct and gives me 2 sets of numbers depending on how far you push up, but down still jumps straight to 45 with no number in between, so i have to still figure out what the differences are. I will be working on it tomorrow so we will continue then.

Rick.
 
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Ok, im close to giving up, i went ahead and took some voltage measurements today on the joysticks, i hooked up a multitester between the joystick U/D Dir pin which is the wht/violet and the inverter's input so i could measure the voltage in real time as i pushed up and down, well i found out if you push up you get 2.60vdc if you push down, you get .12 if you stay in the middle you get .12 and any spot in between is either all the way up to 2.60 with nothing in between or a constant .12vdc, going down. I then disconnected the inverter which of course made up now go down and down now go up, and tested the measurements again, same thing but inverted now, 2.6 going down and .12 going up. I do not know what else i could possibly do to get this joystick to invert it's signal, when i use a 7404, or any other inverter it does work, but only the up works properly, the down does work, but does'nt give me the 1 step in between. I have searched the web like a man possesed, and have found evidence to indicate what i am seeing here with the joystick rotated 90 degrees in the blitz/nba cabinets

see here, he is trying to convert a showtime to a gauntlet

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=printpage;topic=72350.0

in this post he says,
I spent a couple more hours digging on this forum and the webs, and came up with these two links. Between them, I think I'll be able to get it wired. I think the main problem is I had the joystick rotated 90 degrees. The connector is supposed to be on the left side, not the top.

then he follows it up with this
That did the trick. Now I just have to remake the control panel so the joysticks fit horizontally. :( It's a 4-p Showtime cabinet, and apparently they didn't use 49-way, because the connector without a wire is hitting the left side of the cab. Oh well... at least now my problems have known, if obnoxious solutions.

So that confirms that the geniuses at midway, rotated the joysticks 90 degrees when they designed the sports games.

So im out of ideas, Anyone, Anyone, don't be shy out there, you, yes you reading this post at the very moment, are you one of those quiet back of the class engineers, You know the type the ones that can actually tell the difference between a darlington diode and a germanium one, if you are please do not hesistate to speak up and let the rest of the class know which friggin direction to go. I am getting ready to just say forget it and have to rotate the optical pcbs on the back of the joysticks manually everytime i want to switch, which is going to royally suck.

Oh 1 final thing, if you notice i keep refering the U/D dire wire as wht/violet, but if you look at the post above that shows the wiring chart for this game you will see it listed at why/orange, remeber the joystick is rotated 90 degress, so L/R is now U/D and vice versa, hence the wht/violet wire selection.

Anyhow many thanks to any responses in advance.

Rick.
 
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My low-brow suggestion:

Convert to 8 ways and then you wouldn't have this problem? But I'm told that NFL Blitz isn't well suited to 8 way sticks... GL is fine with 8 ways -- I can testify to that. I don't know about the basketball game.

Or, try PMing one of the resident braniacs here for advice and see if you can attract their attention to this thread. Maybe YellowDog, or Ken Layton, or Mark Spaeth (HudsonArcade here).
 
Ok , i have temporarily given up on the up/down inversion, I am now moving on to the rest of the problems, im going to finish wiring up the rest of the harnesses today, also just to give everyone an update on another problems that have come along, the switcher from mike's arcade won't switch between the 2 boards, becuase of course there was no 1 & 2 player connected to the jamma on the second jamma connection, remember all those connections on the sportstation go to the i-40 board, so i tried running additional wires from the 1 & 2 player on the jamma switcher to the sportstation loom, but that also did not work, i called mike, over at mike's arcade, he was very helpful and he explained that the board was designed so that if it did not sense 5v on either p1 or p2 on the 2nd board or the 1st it would disable that connection,so you do not switch to a blank screen. The solution he told me was to connect 1 & 2 player start buttons together on the 2nd jamma input and then wire them to a 10k resistor and then connect the other end of the resistor to +5v, that fixed it , now it switches between both games when pressing 1 & 2 player start simultaneoulsy, there is 2 problems left to fix that im going to work on today, #1 is the to build a switching circuit for the 2nd sound channel so the jamma switcher will switch both sound channels over instead of just 1, and #2, i noticed that the gauntlet is a bit darker than sportstation, and every now and then it jumps, like the vertical hold is off, i do not get this jumping from the sportstation which is rock solid, it only seems to happen the gdl, so i will give everyone an update later on tonight.
 
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You're not getting much "thread love" here but I wanted to say that I'm quite curious and interested in how this turns out.

I have a GL that I'd like to use with that switcher as well and so your solution for the stereo switching is very interesting to me.

And I just went through my own wiring issues as I explained previously trying to make the game work with NBA Jam too...

So carry on! :)
 
Well it's nice to know at least 1 person reads this thread, ok, i have gotten farther, as i explained before, the 1 & 2 player start buttons pressed together now switch between the games, i just finished the entire joystick loom, basically wiring all 4 players and buttons between both games, what a pain, but it is done, all the buttons work as they should and so do the joysticks, except that you have to remove 4 screws turn them 90 degree and rescrew them in , it takes me about 15-20 sec per joystick to turn each, so it's not too bad, as for the screwed up jumping monitor picture,I spoke about this morning, it has to do with the sound, i had bridged the 2nd sound channel to just go through for gdl, but not for sportstation, well i noticed, quite by accident, i should mention, that when i brought the sound up on either one of the games the monitor started to jump around like mad, so i desoldered the 2 wires for the 2nd speaker on the gdl side of the harness and the jumping went away, today i ordered another relay to be used in the jamma switcher, this will be for the 2nd sound channel wires, it is an exact duplicate of the one that is currently installed in mikes jamma switcher, im going to wire them in parallel so that when you switch between games you are actually switching both sound channels at the same time, by default mike's switcher only switches 1 sound channel, and hopefully that will work and fix the jumping video on the screen. But as for now, both games are up and running, i can switch them easily by press 1 & 2 player start button simultaniously. and it takes between 1 minute to 1 minute 30 secs to rotate all 4 joysticks, Oh i forgot to mention 1 thing, the coin door, this will give you your coins, meter, volumes, test and credit buttons, just wire the existing gdl coin connection which is located on p23, and wire it in parallel with the p23 from the sportstation board, what i did was just strip the wire about 3 inches from the connector, exposing just a little bit of the wire and then i soldered a another wire from that point to the other connector also about 3 inches from the other connectors at p23's end, after i had soldered, what basically tuned out to be wire bridges between the 2 harnesses on p23, i taped up each wire with electrical tape, and the coin harness worked like a charm for both games. So that almost does it, i will let everyone know tomorrow how it goes with the relays. And hopefully that will be the end of my posting on this thread, unless someone miraculously figures out how to get around that damn joystick issue.
 
OK, im finished, i ordered the relay from digikey soldered it in parallel, to the existing relay, except that instead of using the left channel sound, which is already going through mike's jamma switcher board, i wired this relay for the right channel, and it worked like a champ, no more screen jumping, everything looks great , switches easily with 1 & 2 player pressed at the same time, both sound channels work clearly, and the joysticks, well, it takes me about 1 minute to change games, not too bad. I hope this post helps all who read it, and if anyone has any questions, just post them here.

Many Thanks
Rick.
 
Rick,

Do you have a part number for that relay from Digikey?

And maybe a picture of what you did by soldering it in parallel? (Not really sure what that means but a picture is worth 1000 words, or so they say).

Thanks.
 
Their item # is PB1076-ND it is a 5VDC 1Amp DPDT Telecom Relay, Cost is $2.04 each.

the way i wired it is if you look at the board on the solder side, so that the relay is facing away from you. Also remember on the jamma switcher from mikes arcade, speaker 1, which i believe is the left channel is already working from the switcher, we are adding the second relay to add the 2nd speaker channel which would be the right channel,


Relay from the bottom

1----2 - these pins go to jamma connector 2 - 2nd speaker
3----4 - these pins go to speaker outputs - 2nd speaker - on the jamma harness
5----6 - these pins go to jamma connector 1 - 2nd speaker
------
7----8 - power

i wired pin 7 from the relay on the switcher to pin 7 on the the second relay
then i wired pin 8 from the relay on the switcher to pin 8 on the second relay, pins 7 & 8 control the relay switching on and off. Pins 3 & 4 are the inputs, so on the first relay located on the switcher, those wires go to the jamma output, which leads to the left speaker channel, On the 2nd relay which we are now adding it will go to the speaker outputs for the right channel,then pins 1 & 2 go to jamma board #2 connector on the second speaker wires, and 5 & 6 go to the Jamma board #1 connector on the second speaker wires. I would take picture, but i do not have a camera at my workplace and i would have to move the cabinet out and take everything apart again to get to the relay wires.
 
Dang, sure wish you had a camera at work and could snap a picture of your finished product.

I'm trying to dope out exactly what you did so I can gauge whether I can reproduce your hack myself.

How did you tie into pins 7 and 8 of the existing relay? Did you solder wires to the pins sticking out the back of the board?

How did the second relay get mounted to the board or does it hang by its connecting wires?

Pins 3 and 4 you said go to the Jamma output. Did you solder them to traces on the board itself or the Jamma connector fingers or tie them into the jamma harness wires directly?

Pins 1 and 2 & 5 and 6 -- did you solder wires from them to the Jamma connector fingers or to traces on the board?

And finally, why did you have to change anything for the coin door to work with this switcher? If I look at the chart on Mike's website it shows it handling the coin mechs, credit buttons, etc. Was this due to Mike's switcher not passing those signals correctly or something else?

Right now on my GL / NBA Jam cabinet when I manually unplug the Jamma connector from one boardset to the other all of the coin/credit/service stuff works perfectly so I'm curious if I'd need to do anything with this?

Thanks a million for this thread and these tips!
 
How did you tie into pins 7 and 8 of the existing relay? Did you solder wires to the pins sticking out the back of the board?

Yes. bridged over to the existing relay.

How did the second relay get mounted to the board or does it hang by its connecting wires?

I just double sided taped it onto the board.

Pins 3 and 4 you said go to the Jamma output. Did you solder them to traces on the board itself or the Jamma connector fingers or tie them into the jamma harness wires directly?

Traces on the board.right on the bottom of the relay.

Pins 1 and 2 & 5 and 6 -- did you solder wires from them to the Jamma connector fingers or to traces on the board?

Traces on the board, right on the bottom of the relay, remember these #'s are just used as a template so you can orient yourself, the #'s represent the pins on the bottom of the relay itself. Here is the diagram of the bottom of the relay again.You may want to read my post above on the relay connections.

Relay from the bottom

1----2 - these pins go to jamma connector 2 - 2nd speaker
3----4 - these pins go to speaker outputs - 2nd speaker - on the jamma harness
5----6 - these pins go to jamma connector 1 - 2nd speaker
------
7----8 - power - these bridge over to the first relay, so when 1 relay flips, they both do.


And finally, why did you have to change anything for the coin door to work with this switcher? If I look at the chart on Mike's website it shows it handling the coin mechs, credit buttons, etc. Was this due to Mike's switcher not passing those signals correctly or something else?

Becuase the coin door does NOT go to the jamma harness itself, so the switcher will not work with the coin mechs, the only solution is that you have to just tie all the coin door wires together on both harnesses. So 1 coin in will actually hit both boards at the same time. Just like the joystick controls on the switcher.

Right now on my GL / NBA Jam cabinet when I manually unplug the Jamma connector from one boardset to the other all of the coin/credit/service stuff works perfectly so I'm curious if I'd need to do anything with this?

See above.

Thanks a million for this thread and these tips![/QUOTE]
 
OK. I guess when I have the board sitting in front of me the traces that I will need to solder wires to will be obvious.

I'm still not completely following you on the coin door not going to the Jamma harness. The Jamma harness diagram on Mike's website shows a whole bunch of coin related signals: coin counter, coin lockout, service switch, tilt/slam, test, coin A, coin B.

When I plug my NBA Jam board into the jamma harness (its ONLY connection to the GL cab), I can press the button inside the cab to get to the service menu, press the button in the cab to add credits to the game, etc. I think I've dropped quarters through and have seen them register too. The only thing that doesn't seem to register in NBA Jam is the two 'up/down' buttons on the service panel and I don't care if those don't work in NBA Jam.

I'm not arguing with you -- you know a lot more about this than I do, I'm just trying to understand, so please bear with me.

One other item that I believe I understand but want to confirm: the 2nd relay is positioned above the traces you want to solder to but the pins for it really aren't plugged into anything, they just have wires soldered to them, right, with the back of the relay taped to the back of the double jamma board?

Thanks!
 
All the buttons, including the joystick connections, go to the i-40 board, so none of those touch the jamma switcher, as for the coin inputs, I found it easiest if you just wire the 2 harnesses for the coin doors together, all the buttons will work for both boards simultaneously, including the up and down switches in the coin door, they are used for volume control.

You are 100% correct on your relay description above,

Rick.
 
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I can't figure out the wiring for the joys/buttons with the I-40. I see the schematics and understand it. When I look at the wriring, I go instant brain dead.

Kevin
 
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