Help Needed... Hard Drivin'

ZRICE28

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Hey guys. So I picked up a hard drivin. It powers on, and there is neck glow on the monitor, static coming from the speakers, so there is some life there. The coin mechs were taken out and replaced with a button on the coin door, but the wires that were soldered to it are busted off. I see there are two boards for this machine listed for sale, but is that the problem? In the past, it has been boards in my cases. Is there anyone out there familiar with these? I'm just not sure the right path or even where to begin with this one.

Thanks in advance...
 
There could be many loose connections, and there are multiple boards in that machine. Is it the cockpit or the upright? First thing to check are if the status leds light on all the boards. The main board has several that will light (or not) giving you some indication of the issue. The sub boards have one to indicate they are getting power. I would look for the owners manual as it has tons of info about that. Reseat all the connectors first and see what happens before buying a new board set. Also just resolder the loose ones to the credit button or just touch them together to coin it up.. Remember it was orig set for 4 quarters, so may take several coin-ups to start. It didnt have attract sounds so make sure the key operates properly to start the game if it's running blind.
 
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check the fuses with a multi meter.. then after verifying they are ok power it on and check ac voltage into and the different dc voltage outputs and report back. The supply should be marked what is what.
 
The led's do come on on all three boards, it did stard making sounds after having it plugged in for 5 min or so. I took the access door off the top and found that the static and buzzing was actually coming from the monitor. Then, I found, the main red wire, with the black cup on it was haning loose. I know that's high voltage, so it remains untouched, infact, I can't seem to locater where it plugs into... never seen that before.
 
That is the anode cap, goes to the back glass of the monitor... Don't know why it would have been off unless the previous owner was attempting to fix the monitor chassis. It should have a compression type connection and just snaps into the little hole on the back of the monitor. That could be the whole reason for your no picture right there...
 
It is an upright by the way. I think I found where the red wire with the two L shaped hooks plugs into, but how do I get it back in there, and I don't recall the proper way to discharge it.
 
oh my god youre lucky you didnt cook yourself lol..

It goes into the anode hole of the tube.

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With the game OFF the red wire is ok to touch(touch the metal clip to some metal part of the monitors frame just to be safe)

However, the tubes anode hole is where the high voltage is stored, so make sure to discharge the tube first, wipe off any dust on the anode area and anoe cap sealing surface, be sure its clean AND DRY... then reinstall the anode wire. You will see it has metal hooks, thats what holds it in there. The rubber isnt really a suction cup it just looks like one and makes a deal to keep dust out.

Follow this vid to discharge the tube.
 
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I dont hold much hope for the monitor working when you are done but anythings possible and hopefully you get lucky!!!
 
Wow!! Monitor lives!! Well, you are past one hurdle.

NExt step, check power supply voltage, im mostly interested as to what the +5 is reading.
 
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I can put it into test mode, but can't cycle through options, due to the coin mechs being removed. the onscreen instructions say to use the coin mech buttons to move up or down... now what?
 
I'm sure the wires are still there, just touch them together or solder them back up to the credit button to cycle through.
 
there are a bunch of wires cut in there. I will post a pic tonight. Any idea which colors are for which coin mech? there is no credit button or counter either. the volume and test switch work though.
 
Figured that out. What's next? Replace this board?
 

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Mmm either you have a shit-load of bad rams on that or there is something else really wrong, maybe with address/bus lines or buffer chips for these, or maybe one RAM is dragging down all the others somehow but I am nearing the end of my knowledge there...

[Edit] if you have several boards try to exchange the square chip that _is_ socketed....be really careful to not damage the chip and/or socket though, best to use a special too for this. {/EDIT}

IIRC there is a something about this in the manual or on Jed Margolin's site (he did the hardware):http://www.jmargolin.com/schem/schems.htm

The RAMs on those boards were definitely not the best ever produced or they have been run at too high temps. I had one board that showed 2 new bad RAMs after I had just replaced one on another spot a couple of times.... and of course they didn't use sockets....sigh...

There are also several different tests to test the RAMs. Jed very cleverly simply used the various processors on the board to do checks at various levels (as I understand it) which may give you a better indication of which RAM(s) are bad....so try all tests I would say, some take a lot longer than others..but worth it in this case I'd say....
 
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Oh wow. Holy krap man. Does not look too promising...

ID either be hunting for another board, or some ram and a bunch of sockets.

did you ever verify good 5 volts?
 
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