Help Mortal Kombat 1 keeps blowing fuses

ctozzi

Active member

Donor 2012
Joined
Jun 23, 2008
Messages
1,682
Reaction score
7
Location
Henderson, Nevada
So I was being silly today and wanted to swap my nicer picture monitor in my MK1 into my MK3. So I took the hantarex out of the mk3 and in went the wells. I turned it on and no power from the monitor. I took it out and found the fuse on the chassis was blown, replaced it and now nothing either, no blown fuse nothing....
I then put it back into the MK1 exactly as it was before i did all this swapping, Now the isolation transformer seen in the picture keeps blowing fuses if I connect the monitor ???
If i do not connect the monitor the cabinet all powers up perfectly. Looking for some advice here as I'm at wits end. I've attached the picture of the Wells Chassis that's blowing fuses, and the isolation transformer with the 2 fuses in it.
Thanks as always for the help
Chris
 

Attachments

  • DSCF2900.jpg
    DSCF2900.jpg
    98.4 KB · Views: 26
  • DSCF2901.jpg
    DSCF2901.jpg
    93.4 KB · Views: 25
  • DSCF2902.jpg
    DSCF2902.jpg
    98.1 KB · Views: 25
It looks like the remote board is wrapped around the metal chassis and It might have shorted out causing damage to your monitor board.

I would look at the power supply section of the monitor board. Look for shorted or open diodes.
 
I would look at the power supply section of the monitor board. Look for shorted or open diodes.

+1 By the way, did the MK3 cabinet have an ISO transformer in it or not? If not, then you probably damaged the Wells when you put it in the MK3 cab.

Also, I'm trying to trace the wires going to your power supply -- did you disconnect those during the swap? From the picture, it looks like you have 2 red connections to the AC inputs on the PS, which, in turn, looks like you have 1 black (HOT) AC input going to your ground section on the PS. I hope that's not the case -- can you take a better close up of the PS if you did disconnect those wires? -- Just looked again, looks like you have Red Green Red on the harness going to your PS AC inputs, in which case, 2 reds going to AC would be fine...

Lastly, missing from the picture of the monitor chassis is the power harness -- where is that? Did you disconnect the harness before taking the picture? I didn't see it laying in the bottom of the cab, so just curious.
 
Last edited:
Ya your right no isolation transformer on the mk3, what do you think happened to the chassis by plugging it into a power supply without an iso transformer ? Stupid me I should have known better.
 
Blown diodes.... probably 4 of them - larger ones by the Power inputs.... see if they are open (i.e. no forward bias in either direction) or shorted. There was a YouTube video of this problem... Let me see if I can find the vid for you...
 
Last edited:
Funny! - I think you know this guy - or at least he knows you and seems to think your MK is a flawless 10 out of 10 machine! He mentioned your name in one of his videos....

I can't seem to find the video. Anyway, this guy sold a cab to someone, and it had a K7000 in it without an ISO transformer. Anyway, when the guy plugged it in at his house, it wouldn't work because no ISO was used. It wound up being blown diodes, but I can't find that video any more. Here is one talking about the problem, but the video where he actually fixes it escapes me. Anyway, note the tag on your monitor's power cord "ISO MUST BE USED". Live it, know it, love it.

 
Last edited:
Make sure that the fuses are the correct type. I had something somewhat similar minus the ISO issue, where I removed one perfectly working K4900 monitor from one of my machines and replaced it with another perfectly working K7000. On power up it would blow one of the fuses around the ISO (with the new & old monitor...lol). I could not figure out what was happening until I checked the fuse type. The fuse that was blowing should have been a 3A, but had a 2A installed. Funny thing is that I kept replacing the blown fuse with other 2A fuses and kept blowing......lol. Once I checked the sticker indicating the fuse types, and made the change, all was good, and has been good ever since.
 
Hey thanks for all the help guys, when I get some free time today I'm going to look at the diodes and see if they are shot, and double check the fuses to make sure they are the same. I'll keep you guys informed. Thanks again.
Chris
 
Back
Top Bottom