Help installing jamma harness

Deadpool66

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Help installing jamma harness Monitor connector

Having problems figuring out how to hook the monitor up connector doesnt seem to fit please someone tell me what Im doing wrong. I wanted to make my cab easy to disassemble as everything was soldered together this is proving to be a bit more of a challenge than I had anticipated.

If anyone could at least tell me color wire should be on the top prong that would be helpfull
 

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Sup WG4900/new jamma harness buddy? In that picture (numbers as they're labeled on the board, though they're hard to see), going from the bottom most pin on the set of six, it's red (pin 1) green (pin 2) blue (pin 3) ground (pin 4) on the first 4. The white one (composite sync) goes to either the top pin (pin 6) on the 6 pin set (pos horiz sync) or the top (pin 3) on on the 3 pin set (neg horiz sync) depending on what your board is putting out. Manual for the 4900 says "When using composite sync use horizontal sync inputs". As far as the connector not fitting properly, basically you're going to have to cut through the plastic between the black & white wires (a real thin dremel grinding wheel should do it, that's what I'm going to use) so that the rgbgnd fit and you can get the white one to whichever is the right sync input.

If I'm horribly wrong here (and I hope I'm not, I've triple checked the board/manual) someone please speak up, as I'm about to do the exact same thing with a machine of mine.
 
Worked like a charm had to break the connector with a razor to split it still was a tight fight but now I have video. Thanx for the quick response.
 
Well the quick response was a matter of luck, I'd just gotten up and checked the boards, glad to hear it worked. :) So that is a WG4900? I have to figure out if SFIICE is pos sync or neg sync, I'm about to take a dremel to that connector today and will spend tomorrow dropping the harness into the cab to try to get it up and working.
 
Those new style JAMMA video connectors will not fit the old school monitors. I have heard that if you cut the sync pin (the white one) loose and put it on the negative h-synch pin on the upper set of pins, it should work. Myself I normally cut those off and use a molex connector (actually 2) one for the RGB + GND and then loop the GND + Sync onto the other.

Some newer monitors have that pin setup so the connector goes right onto monitor connector, but the older ones just don't fit.

JAMMA is negative sync so it fits on the second set of header pins.

WG4900 pinouts:
o - neg H-sync
o - neg V-sync
o - ground

o - pos H-sync
o - pos V-sync
o - ground
o - blue
o - green
o - red

ken

Edit: that will teach me to go look something up and to go eat lunch while replying....
 
So if JAMMA is neg sync, I'm going to need both the composite and ground going to that other connector? If that's the case, i may be hosed trying to get this thing running by wednesday, as I don't know anywhere locally to get hands on those connectors, I'd have to order more.
 
I'm a madman but I think I've got it. Of course the 3 pin set will need a ground lead, that's just the nature of electronics unless ground to the 6 pin set is in line with the circuit for ground from the 3 pin set. If someone can confirm that, that'd rule. The insane idea I had, being that I have a ton of them around, is that if I run a .187 female spade connector on a ground wire, with a slight crimp, it will fit snugly on the the ground pin on the 3 set, which hopefully will get me through wednesday until proper connectors get here.

Though if I don't need a wire for ground on the 3 pin if i've got one on the 6 pin, that'd make life a hell of a lot easier. Deadpool, did you just connect the comp. sync to the 3 pin in the horiz neg location and not connect a ground to the ground pin?
 
Well the quick response was a matter of luck, I'd just gotten up and checked the boards, glad to hear it worked. :) So that is a WG4900? I have to figure out if SFIICE is pos sync or neg sync, I'm about to take a dremel to that connector today and will spend tomorrow dropping the harness into the cab to try to get it up and working.

Not sure what it is the monitor label is worn says 89 or 81 on it.
 
Not sure what it is the monitor label is worn says 89 or 81 on it.

Did you have to run a ground line to the gnd pin on the other connector, or did you just use the one part (r/g/b/gnd) to the 6 pin set and the single pin up into horiz negative sync on the 3 pin connector w/o anything else up there?

*e* sorry for the rapid-fire posting, just want to make sure to get things right while the thread's still being read. Working at the same time I'm reading this, so the brain is a little scattered at the mo.
 
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Did you have to run a ground line to the gnd pin on the other connector, or did you just use the one part (r/g/b/gnd) to the 6 pin set and the single pin up into horiz negative sync on the 3 pin connector w/o anything else up there?

*e* sorry for the rapid-fire posting, just want to make sure to get things right while the thread's still being read. Working at the same time I'm reading this, so the brain is a little scattered at the mo.

No ground wire needed put the first four wires on starting with red and put the single pin in the 1 position on the 3 pin and viola. Im already done now minus one coin slot that wont read but I can figure that out later. Monitor needs a good adjusting do you know which button would shift the picture left?
 
There's horizonal Raster position and Horizontal video position, two separate controls. The HRP seems to be a set of jumpers just behind the vert raster position knob. Manual seems to say that it only adjusts it slightly depending on if L or R is jumpered, so HVP is probably the way to go, seems to be the leftmost knob at the back of the monitor. Or, to take the clearer path, here's the monitor's manual:

http://www.coinop.clubseal.net/4900manual.pdf

*e* though I'm wondering if we have the same monitor, the manual seems to indicate that the pin labeled 1 on the monitor board (bottom most of the 3 pin set) is gnd, not neg horizontal sync, though I may have misunderstood which pin you meant. Take a peek at the manual, double check on the monitor housing to see if there's a label with something along the lines of 19K4914, as that's the monitor the manual is for, it looks like there's several labels there like mine to the left of the monitor power cord.
 
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There's horizonal Raster position and Horizontal video position, two separate controls. The HRP seems to be a set of jumpers just behind the vert raster position knob. Manual seems to say that it only adjusts it slightly depending on if L or R is jumpered, so HVP is probably the way to go, seems to be the leftmost knob at the back of the monitor. Or, to take the clearer path, here's the monitor's manual:

http://www.coinop.clubseal.net/4900manual.pdf

*e* though I'm wondering if we have the same monitor, the manual seems to indicate that the pin labeled 1 on the monitor board (bottom most of the 3 pin set) is gnd, not neg horizontal sync, though I may have misunderstood which pin you meant. Take a peek at the manual, double check on the monitor housing to see if there's a label with something along the lines of 19K4914, as that's the monitor the manual is for, it looks like there's several labels there like mine to the left of the monitor power cord.

Not sure why but my picture is off a bit more than it was before I started this task. Can bumping around in the cab cause the picture to shift? Another thought about the picture I had is that maybe because I put a POW board in it to test the cab when the original board was AVSP could this have caused picture to shift due to different settings?.

Going to try and adjust it tommorow well see if I can get it just so.

On the 3 pin I connected to the very top pin which is 3 I beilieve sorry I mispoke in my earlier post .
 
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Not sure why but my picture is off a bit more than it was before I started this task. Can bumping around in the cab cause the picture to shift? Another thought about the picture I had is that maybe because I put a POW board in it to test the cab when the original board was AVSP could this have caused picture to shift due to different settings?.

Going to try and adjust it tommorow well see if I can get it just so.

On the 3 pin I connected to the very top pin which is 3 I beilieve sorry I mispoke in my earlier post .

Depending on how you were bumping around, maybe you dinged one of the pots? Swapping boards shouldn't make a difference, unless one was os sync and one neg sync, not sure what the issue might be. There's the standard "cap kit, reflow headers" that happens when monitor questions arise, but not sure which caps would case that issue, if at all. Hopefully the manual helps a bit in knowing which one to mess with to try to fix it. *e* unless for some reason the lack of a ground wire going to the 3 pin is causing it, given that the composite is going to the horizontal sync...looking at the schematics, it seems that ground on the 3 pin (pin 1) and ground on the 6 pin (pin 4) go separately to chassis/earth ground. I'll update when I try it out tomorrow to see if I have the same issue. If I wind up with that, I'll try the .187 spade connector to get a ground lead there and see if that fixes it.

No worries on the misspeak, thanks for clarifying, looks like (assuming this monitor actually works) I'm good to go when I put the new harness in tomorrow.
 
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Depending on how you were bumping around, maybe you dinged one of the pots? Swapping boards shouldn't make a difference, unless one was os sync and one neg sync, not sure what the issue might be. There's the standard "cap kit, reflow headers" that happens when monitor questions arise, but not sure which caps would case that issue, if at all. Hopefully the manual helps a bit in knowing which one to mess with to try to fix it. *e* unless for some reason the lack of a ground wire going to the 3 pin is causing it, given that the composite is going to the horizontal sync...looking at the schematics, it seems that ground on the 3 pin (pin 1) and ground on the 6 pin (pin 4) go separately to chassis/earth ground. I'll update when I try it out tomorrow to see if I have the same issue. If I wind up with that, I'll try the .187 spade connector to get a ground lead there and see if that fixes it.

No worries on the misspeak, thanks for clarifying, looks like (assuming this monitor actually works) I'm good to go when I put the new harness in tomorrow.

Hope it works out for you. Today was a test run tommorow I will re jamma my Ninja gaiden and install two new Nos top fire sticks woot.
 
Those new style JAMMA video connectors will not fit the old school monitors. I have heard that if you cut the sync pin (the white one) loose and put it on the negative h-synch pin on the upper set of pins, it should work. Myself I normally cut those off and use a molex connector (actually 2) one for the RGB + GND and then loop the GND + Sync onto the other.

Some newer monitors have that pin setup so the connector goes right onto monitor connector, but the older ones just don't fit.

JAMMA is negative sync so it fits on the second set of header pins.

WG4900 pinouts:
o - neg H-sync
o - neg V-sync
o - ground

o - pos H-sync
o - pos V-sync
o - ground
o - blue
o - green
o - red

ken

Edit: that will teach me to go look something up and to go eat lunch while replying....

Ended up ordering some molex housings figured it would work better with a snug fit.
 
After hacking up an extension to the power cord (existing one was 6 inches too short) and grouping/labeling the wiring w/ zip ties so i could put the harness in w/o it being a total mess, she's up and running. Video works perfectly and my power adapter didn't melt (I really need to redo it with slightly larger-gauge wire), I'm happy as hell.

The image on the screen was shifted a bit to the right when I powered it up, but I managed to adjust it. The horizonal position is controlled by the leftmost white knob (when looking at it from behind, ala the picture you posted) in the row of them right up against the back of the frame/board. Clockwise on the knob moves it to the right. Not sure if you've managed to adjust yours, but that's the one you'll need to fiddle with. Hope you got yours working too, thanks for the confirmation on all this stuff, it was fun putting heads together to figure it all out. :)
 
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