Help identifying a DK cab

_jmfr

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I recently came across a Blue DK cab, but the serial plate reads MGS-UR-US. Im assuming the MGS is the VS duck Hunt conversion plate right? The reason I believe it to be DK is the hacked-to-hell control panel is still there and the DK CPO lines up to the right holes. Was the CP layout on Popeye the same as DK? Is there an easier way to identify my cab? Thanks for any advice, and if you need pics, ill post 'em.
 
I recently came across a Blue DK cab, but the serial plate reads MGS-UR-US. Im assuming the MGS is the VS duck Hunt conversion plate right? The reason I believe it to be DK is the hacked-to-hell control panel is still there and the DK CPO lines up to the right holes. Was the CP layout on Popeye the same as DK? Is there an easier way to identify my cab? Thanks for any advice, and if you need pics, ill post 'em.

I believe the cpo's are all the same layout.
The tag is definitely not a DK tag as those start with TKG.
Is the cab a plywood or particle cab?
If particle then most likely Popeye.
Is there a monitor sheet on the back door,those state what model the cab is.
Popeye had a different power supply than DK and had a cage for the pcb.
Either way make it a DK.:)
 
MGS is indeed the designation used for the VS Unisystem, it was a VS cabinet last.

Control panel overlays and control panel "woods" are the same across the Nintendo classic family. Button hole layout, extra button hole provision, etc.

It's possible some Unisystem cabs (yours, for instance) were dedicated as such, although since they made a unique Unisystem cabinet, I kind of doubt it. It's likely your machine was at one time a DK or Popeye. A number of factors can determine it's possible history; including monitor mount hole position(s) in the cabinet sides, plywood or mdf construction, and evidence of previous serial tags, to name a few.
 
It's definitely plywood...not MDF. Either way its going to be a DK :) Thanks to Gamerterry I got a decent cpo, a very nice marquee, and an original manual. All I need now is a bezel, one side of art, and a PCB. Almost got a board from Terry, but found out it was a Popeye :/

Also, Finally got my Sanyo plugged up and tested and it WORKS! Im having a small issue with the greens, most likely a pot. I plan on capping it and replacing the pots before it's a DK anyway. Quick question....Is the VS wire harnessing anything like the dk harness? I have a VS harness but im not sure if it's the same for DK or not.
 
Very different. Donkey Kong has two styles of harness; a multi-connector style, and a card edge connector style. Either one will work, but neither is compatible with VS.

... Quick question....Is the VS wire harnessing anything like the dk harness? I have a VS harness but im not sure if it's the same for DK or not.
 
If you need a harness you can try and find an original one or order one from Dokert. http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=155757

Cool Jim thanks for the heads up.I know by all I've heard from you dudes that Dokert does superior work. Im not trying to be rude or anything, but Bob Roberts has a DK harness for I think $30. What are the differences? Is Dokerts a Ready-to-go out of the box kinna deal?
 
Cool Jim thanks for the heads up.I know by all I've heard from you dudes that Dokert does superior work. Im not trying to be rude or anything, but Bob Roberts has a DK harness for I think $30. What are the differences? Is Dokerts a Ready-to-go out of the box kinna deal?

Dokert's harness is plug and play.
Bob's is just the edge connector and wires.
You would still need to buy connectors and the rainbow cable.
You would also need to get connectors and pins to hook up to the original power supply or use a switcher,which is another $20-$30.
I figure by the time you do all that it is much easier to just plug Dokert's harness right it.
With all the cheap asses on here:eek: guys are still buying Dokert's harness instead of Bob's.
That is the route I would go if I couldn't find an original harness.
 
Dokert's harness is plug and play.
Bob's is just the edge connector and wires.
You would still need to buy connectors and the rainbow cable.
You would also need to get connectors and pins to hook up to the original power supply or use a switcher,which is another $20-$30.
I figure by the time you do all that it is much easier to just plug Dokert's harness right it.
With all the cheap asses on here:eek: guys are still buying Dokert's harness instead of Bob's.
That is the route I would go if I couldn't find an original harness.


Sounds good man...that's the route i'll go then. Im shoot Dok a pm when it's time. Finally got the VS side art off. It was pretty easy with a hair dryer. Im assuming the Dk harness connects to the power brick for the +sv ect right? The cab was jammatized, and before I yanked out the crappy hacked-to-hell harness I tested the Sanyo. I noticed that the dc voltages from the brick ran to a switcher for the jamma setup. How is it set up for DK for the board voltages?
 
BTW, on my VS cabinet, I found this:
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The original DK plate was behind the VS plate.
 
Sounds good man...that's the route i'll go then. Im shoot Dok a pm when it's time. Finally got the VS side art off. It was pretty easy with a hair dryer. Im assuming the Dk harness connects to the power brick for the +sv ect right? The cab was jammatized, and before I yanked out the crappy hacked-to-hell harness I tested the Sanyo. I noticed that the dc voltages from the brick ran to a switcher for the jamma setup. How is it set up for DK for the board voltages?

DK uses -5, +5, +12 and +24 for the counter. The Dokert/Flagg harness is plug and play for the nintendo PP7b or PP7a power supply. What power supply is in your cab? The pp7b is fairly easy to get a hold of one if you need it. - Barry
 
Just realized that number was from the iso. The power supply in mine was apparently robbed and didnt have one! Actually, it was jammatized years ago so there's no tell where it is. BUT, I have a spare shitty VS cab with a pp7b in it so ill just rob that and put a switcher or something in my extra cab.
 
Another question. Besides changing the guide plate from 8 way to 4 way, is there anything else I need to do to convert a nintendo stick that came off a VS? Does anyone sell the clear plastic dust shield thingy that goes on the joystick shaft? Thanks for any help guys
 
Another question. Besides changing the guide plate from 8 way to 4 way, is there anything else I need to do to convert a nintendo stick that came off a VS? Does anyone sell the clear plastic dust shield thingy that goes on the joystick shaft? Thanks for any help guys

I would get a longer shaft for that stick,the shorter ones that came on the 8 ways sucks for a wood cp.
I didn't like my knuckles rubbing on the cp.
The best deal on shafts right now. http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TKGU-JS-ASSEMBLY
 
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I would get a longer shaft for that stick,the shorter ones that came on the 8 ways sucks for a wood cp.
I didn't like my knuckles rubbing on the cp.
The best deal on shafts right now. http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TKGU-JS-ASSEMBLY

Besides all the parts of the joystick, and the metal base that the micro switches and the stick attach to, is there any other parts i need to make a complete stick? I ask because the VS stick I have now came with a black piece of plastic that mounted on top of the base, and it wont fit into the the DK cpo. Is there a special on for DK?


I should just make this my DK restoration thread.
 
After refering to my DK manual, Im missing the Control lever mounting plate, and the blind plate. Thoughts?

Ill check mikes
 
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