Help...Forgot to connect the anode cap.

[Devryn]

Modesitt fixed my monitor chassis and it worked great. I tested it on the bench, worked awesome, disconnected it all and put it in the cab and secured everything. I powered it all on, but forgot to connect the anode cap. Now it's blowing fuses again. WG K7000...What did I fry, and where do I get the parts to fix it? Seriously bummed today...I swear this god damned thing is cursed.

 

[Dokert]

most likely the VR

 

[Devryn]

How do you test the Voltage Regulator? I'm really new to this (hence my stupid mistake).

Also, where do you guys get the Diodes and Resistors? The Diodes D20 and D21 are testing bad on the board (not away from the board though...?). Radioshack and Frys don't have the 1n5061. Nobody I can find has the 7W 2.7 Ohm Resistors like R103.

 

[ArcadEd]

www.jameco.com
www.digikey.com

 

[Devryn]

www.jameco.com
www.digikey.com

Doesn't look like they have the diodes either. Is there an equivalent or something? Is the NTE506 equivalent?

 

[Arcadenut]

Couple more places to try:

www.mouser.com
www.therealbobroberts.net
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp

If you're looking for chips, I start here:

http://www.findchips.com/


BTW: FindChips.com also works for pretty much all electronic components, not just IC's.

 

[Devryn]

Will the IN4005 Diode work? It seems to have the same specs...What about the NTE 580? Same specs, but not "Glass Pack"

 

[baritonomarc]

To test diodes it's better to remove them from the circuit

 

[Ohmerone]

How do you test the Voltage Regulator? I'm really new to this (hence my stupid mistake).

Also, where do you guys get the Diodes and Resistors? The Diodes D20 and D21 are testing bad on the board (not away from the board though...?). Radioshack and Frys don't have the 1n5061. Nobody I can find has the 7W 2.7 Ohm Resistors like R103.

The diodes need to test bad out of the circuit..
if they don't then their not the reason the fuse is blowing..

Does R103 test open?
Odds are Q11 is shorted
test with the diode checker out of circuit.
Tip: Always replace the Regulator when the hot is shorted.
It will get damaged when a dead short is on the output of VR.
Remove the HOT and measure pin 4 of vr to ground.
See schematic or data sheet for pin outs.
Whats the resistance to ground?
Should be high in ohms.
The Vr is a IC it doesn't measure like a transistor
subbing it out is the best.
Need to clear any shorts on the B+ line..
before replacing the fuse..
Good Luck!

 

[Devryn]

The diodes need to test bad out of the circuit..
if they don't then their not the reason the fuse is blowing..

Does R103 test open?
Odds are Q11 is shorted
test with the diode checker out of circuit.
Tip: Always replace the Regulator when the hot is shorted.
It will get damaged when a dead short is on the output of VR.
Remove the HOT and measure pin 4 of vr to ground.
See schematic or data sheet for pin outs.
Whats the resistance to ground?
Should be high in ohms.
The Vr is a IC it doesn't measure like a transistor
subbing it out is the best.
Need to clear any shorts on the B+ line..
before replacing the fuse..
Good Luck!

R103 tests at 2.7 ohm. Seems fine. I replaced VR and HOT, now I get this:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=172653
I ordered new IC2 and IC3

 

[modessitt]

This stuff happens when you have multiple threads for the same monitor. People assume you are still stuck on problem one. If I were you, I'd ask a moderator to combine them for you...

 

[Ohmerone]

R103 tests at 2.7 ohm. Seems fine. I replaced VR and HOT, now I get this:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=172653
I ordered new IC2 and IC3

Ok if you already replaced them
You should send it back to mod and let him
fix it for you,or you maybe buying parts you don't need.
Its not his fault you damaged it,but i'm sure he will do it for a good price
with a warranty..

I had a tech bring back a Nt-600 after i repaired
he try to install and said he heard a snap,pulled it and found the anode cup
laying between hor circuit and vert Ic.
I had to replace a few cap's and resistor and Ic in the area.
Good Luck!

 

[Devryn]

Ok if you already replaced them
You should send it back to mod and let him
fix it for you,or you maybe buying parts you don't need.
Its not his fault you damaged it,but i'm sure he will do it for a good price
with a warranty..

I had a tech bring back a Nt-600 after i repaired
he try to install and said he heard a snap,pulled it and found the anode cup
laying between hor circuit and vert Ic.
I had to replace a few cap's and resistor and Ic in the area.
Good Luck!

When in get ic2 and 3 in the mail I'll replace them (only 10 bucks for both after shipping). If that doesn't work I may see if mod can fix it. I said very early that it worked great when I got it back from him. He did a great job.

 

[Devryn]

O.K. replaced the verticle IC LA7831. Electronix sent me 7832 instead of 7823, so I couldn't replace it yet. Doesn't look like much has changed:

http://s221.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/Devryn/?action=view&current=VID_20110226_115240.mp4

Any ideas?

 

[THE COUNT]

In the one vid you posted it looked like it was scrambled then going into vertical collapse. Unless that was just the way it seemed in the video or because of where the video ended? Either way, it deff. isn't going into vert. collapse now. I have never delt with an issue like you are now having.

 

[KevinMullins]

Does adjusting the Horizontal Hold or 50/60Hz pot make any difference ?
Is the SYNC wire on the video input cable hooked up correctly ?

 

[Devryn]

Does adjusting the Horizontal Hold or 50/60Hz pot make any difference ?
Is the SYNC wire on the video input cable hooked up correctly ?

It makes no difference that I can tell.

On the board, it's hooked up like this:

RGB---G-S

 

[Devryn]

Is there any chance that the Diodes I replaced are causing this? The 1N4005's are 1 Amp 600 Volt. I believe that the 1N5061's that were in there were 3 Amp 600 Volt...