Help-cap kit issue Nintendo monitor

Invaderfromspace

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So I just attempted my first cap kit on my Mario monitor and it was a success for about the first 20 minutes... after there was this yellow line that appeared about a third of the way down from the top of the screen. everything above the yellow line was there but stretched out. I know it must be one or two caps that aren't soldered right. I was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction on how to test them so I don't have to redo them all. I've attached pictures of what the screen looks like now.

These are the caps i replaced

C301 C302 C303
C406 C407 C408 C410
C453 C458 C459
C464 C467 C468 C469
C471 C472

I checked and rechecked the uf and voltage on all the caps they are correct.

I'd sure appreciate any input thanks for reading!
 

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you need to finish the cap kit.
do a full kit and see what you get.
i think its still cap related.

Peace
Buffett
 
Don't forget the main filter caps. Do the power supply while you are at it.
 
Really can't see much from those postage stamp sized pictures... But go back through and double check the polarity on all those new caps you installed, make sure you didn't put one in backwards. Also, inspect your solder joints for bad connections or bridges.

Did you adjust your B+ after capping the monitor? That won't cause a fold/line in the picture, but it's good to ensure it's correct. Should be 108v.

-Ian
 
atleast bob gives you a choice for the sayno, i go all out when i do one...
20EZ 13"/19" - Standard Industry Kit [20-Z2AW] $5.00
20EZ 13"/19" - Plus Kit with 9 more chassis caps $7.00
20EZ 13"/19" - Deluxe Kit [Plus & Audio Bd Kit] $12.00
 
OP

It turns out I didn't reconnect the signal PCB (the red wire that connects to the spot marked ab on the inverter board)It's an 20-EZV could I have fried something by not reconnecting it. I tested it after noticing there was not change in the screen.
 
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for a Nintendo game you do not need that inverter board that sits on the fly back cage.

hook the video input cable directly to the monitor chassis.

Peace
Buffett
 
It turns out I didn't reconnect the signal PCB (the red wire that connects to the spot marked ab on the inverter board)It's an 20-EZV could I have fried something by not reconnecting it. I tested it after noticing there was not change in the screen.

This red wire provides 14vdc to the inverter board which will cause your picture to look like ass if you are using the inverter board and it is not connected.

As stated above, if you are running a Nintendo game you do not need the inverter board at all and it is best to remove it altogether.
 
So embarrassing enough I had a cap in the wrong. It seems to be working perfectly now. I'll probably get the rest of the caps and do the full cap just to practice since I've gone this far already. Thank you for all your help! This is a great place to learn and it's nice there are so many great people to take the time to help with problems I hope to one day be able to return the favor.
 
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