Hatarex Polo 25" little help pls..

supadave1

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It sorta works. I've capped some of it.. The big caps is all. I replaced the hot, and flyback.. it clicks but sorta works, see video below.. This is the same thing it did when I first got the chassis so my situation hasn't really changed. Any ideas? Mabye the B+?? I'm not a repair expert on chassis. I kinda shotgun em.. Caps, Flys, and Hots.. if that doesn't work I'm lost. i'm open for ideas and even the idea of just shipping it to someone who can fix it for a reasonable fee.. check out the video for an idea of what it is doing.. Sorry the fan is so loud, it over rides the clicking sounds.. just imaging a click sound with every flicker.. That click sound is coming from the power supply area on the chassis if that helps any.. Thanks all..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXYHAlXNqr4

 
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Finish capping it, then we'll talk...

Damn it! I knew someone was going to say that.. There's just so many little caps and could it really be one of those little suckers.. It's such a clean chassis and the caps look so good. With 2 year old twins it's so dang hard to get time to work on my hobby. sigh... I'll see what I can do, but if anyone has any other suggestions I'm all ears. Thanks.
 
It's useless to troubleshoot it at this point if the cap job wasn't complete. Caps can cause all kinds of problems. If we know they are all replaced and still do it, then we know we can concentrate on other areas. But it's useless to go for major components when the cheapest parts to replace could be the cause. Then we'd just potentially be chasing ghosts....
 
in my experience, the Polo isn't that bad to cap. :p

start getting into U5000s and K7500s... I dread the day I have to do our D9200s.
 
D9200. mod took the time to build the FULL kit for it. the usual kits you'll find for it elsewhere are like in the 20s or maybe 30s. considering how failure prone those damn things were, you'd think the kits would include all of them!
 
Ha ha, Yeah, I'm exaggerating just a bit but it is a lot. I had a pile of old caps that I pulled from the last one I did and it looked like I had caps from 3 or more monitors. What monitor takes 112?

D9200. mod took the time to build the FULL kit for it. the usual kits you'll find for it elsewhere are like in the 20s or maybe 30s. considering how failure prone those damn things were, you'd think the kits would include all of them!

Nah, the D9200 only has about 76 caps. The Vision Pro clone of it has like 94 caps for some reason. The 112 caps I think was a Japanese Toshiba medium-res that I found in a Boxing Mania. Imported to the US, and the gameplay was all in Japanese, even the voices...
 
Ok, Fully Capped now gentlemen.. I had a brainstorm and took it to work and capped it here at the office.. lol.. Why didn't I think of that before.. Anyways, I'll pop it in when I get home tonight and see what happens.
 
Ok, fully capped but I have a new problem.. See below. I'm at a loss.. Any ideas? The chassis still makes a clicking noise but it comes up a little better since the cap kit. I've tried all the adjusting I can find and nothing works to adjust the issues. Take a look and any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.

Work Done so Far: New Fly, New Hot, Fully Capped with kit.

 
I can see a few issues but it looks like the HV shutdown has stopped ( I could be wrong though)
The screen pot on the flyback needs to be turned down. The H and V sync need to be adjusted, and the colors need to be adjusted. It looked for a second like the green was up way too high.

Did you check your TDA1675? I've had a lot of problems with them acting weird in the past.
 
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I appreciate the input.. The pots on the flyback don't really do anything.. What would normally be a brightness doesn't really do anything.. the focus however does have some effect from what i can tell. The colors are in fact out of wack but im' not too concerned about that at the momment. it's the bloom, sync, and clicking that is the biggest issue. Adjusting the v and h sync with the controller board only minimizes the rolling but doesn't stop it.

As for checking the regulator, i'm not real sure about how to do that. Is that something that can be done with a digital voltage meter?

I have found some information from another thread that looks very interesting to my situation.. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=94981.0 I think I'll try switching out some of the items mentioned there.. Also a certain flowchart points to alot of the same stuff too..

I can see a few issues but it looks like the HV shutdown has stopped ( I could be wrong though)
The screen pot on the flyback needs to be turned down. The H and V sync need to be adjusted, and the colors need to be adjusted. It looked for a second like the green was up way too high. On your sync pins you should only have the comp neg sync going to pin 3 only, not 2 & 3.

Did you check your regulator? I've had a lot of problems with them acting weird in the past.
 
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I gave you some bad info there, for some reason I was thinking we were talking about a WGK7000. Anyway, I'll edit my earlier post but definitely check/swap your TDA1675
 
Is the fly soldered in good?
Is the white large watt resistors on the fly side of chassis
making a good connection,most of the time the pcb
is dark and overheating because of poor connections..
Check the diodes D44 and D47 i've seen crack and open near HOT.
The vertical Ic is a must to replace,or never been replaced before
or looks overheated.
If not replaced. resolder it,it will get loose connections..

Most of the time i replace the fly unless its
been replace already. And the retrace timing capacitor and safty caps.
Good Luck!
 
Is the fly soldered in good?
Is the white large watt resistors on the fly side of chassis
making a good connection,most of the time the pcb
is dark and overheating because of poor connections..
Check the diodes D44 and D47 i've seen crack and open near HOT.
The vertical Ic is a must to replace,or never been replaced before
or looks overheated.
If not replaced. resolder it,it will get loose connections..

Most of the time i replace the fly unless its
been replace already. And the retrace timing capacitor and safty caps.
Good Luck!

I'm glad you provided information instead of the usual "omg polos suck" banter.

they really don't look all that complicated, but I don't do any of the electronics stuff with them, lol
 
I'm glad you provided information instead of the usual "omg polos suck" banter.

they really don't look all that complicated, but I don't do any of the electronics stuff with them, lol

Everybodys Right they do Suck!
Some worse then others models.
But they need to get fixed.
Thats why they need more parts to
get the best results.Otherwise i suggest replacing the Monitor
with another type monitor and don't deal with them.
These other parts have changed thier values and aged,overheated,not just the normal caps.
Its also a good idea to get a few chassis to work with and anything is possible.Smile
I also recommend a monitor shop, service it and have them warranty it LOL!!
 
ok, update, took awhile for some parts to arrive. I replaced the 2 TDA chips, TDA1675 and i can't remember the other TDA but I switched it too. Anyways, that seemed to fix up the monitor. Take a look, the video isn't the best coming off my old 8 megapixal snap cam. But the monitor looks and works very good! No more clicking thank god.

Sorry for the self pat on the back here but i purchased this cab with the chassis bad and it's my first polo repair.. YAY! Another one back from the dead!

 

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ok, update, took awhile for some parts to arrive. I replaced the 2 TDA chips, TDA1675 and i can't remember the other TDA but I switched it too. Anyways, that seemed to fix up the monitor. Take a look, the video isn't the best coming off my old 8 megapixal snap cam. But the monitor looks and works very good! No more clicking thank god.

Sorry for the self pat on the back here but i purchased this cab with the chassis bad and it's my first polo repair.. YAY! Another one back from the dead!


you deserve a medal. :D
 
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