Has anyone here installed a Cinelabs Sanyo 20-EZV replacement flyback?

MaximRecoil

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Has anyone here installed a Cinelabs Sanyo 20-EZV replacement flyback?

In the installation guide on Cinelab's site, it shows a white wire with a plug surrounded by a rubber boot. This is the same type of plug/boot that is corresponding wire on the original monitor. The flyback I got in the mail today doesn't have a plug/boot at all; just a red wire with a small section of its insulation stripped off the end. What am I supposed to do with that?

Also, I seem to remember hearing something about "bootleg" (so to speak) versions of these flybacks; i.e., the Chinese company that made them for Cinelabs went behind their back and sold them to other retailers. I ordered mine from TwistedQuarter.com. Did I get a "bootleg" (which might explain why there is no plug/boot on the wire)?
 
Here's a little picture album with descriptions of when I did a few flyback replacements...
http://www.vidiotarcade.com/pub/Sanyo20Z2AWFlybackReplacement/

Not sure if I had a "bootleg" or not? I ordered my from Chad at ArcadeCup.com.

So yours didn't have a plug on that wire either. You just reused the one from the original wire? I didn't realize it was reusable. The original plug isn't crimped onto the wire?

Edit: I just looked at a parts chassis and that connector is just soldered to the wire, so that isn't a problem.

By the way, yours has the same "F5024AKJ" label on it as mine, the only difference I can see is that mine has a red wire rather than white:

fbt.jpg


Did yours come with two mounting screws/nuts for the focus assembly; and did it come with notches in the base for the red and black wires that are soldered to pins 4 & 12 to sit in? The installation guide on Cinelab's site (see page 7 to see the notches that are supposed to be there) mentions both of those things, but mine came with neither.
 
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Did yours come with two mounting screws/nuts for the focus assembly; and did it come with notches in the base for the red and black wires that are soldered to pins 4 & 12 to sit in? The installation guide on Cinelab's site (see page 7 to see the notches that are supposed to be there) mentions both of those things, but mine came with neither.

Nope, no screws or notches. Although the "notches" look like someone just nipped the plastic with a pair a dikes. :)

In the picture album I showed how I went about attaching the wires to those pins. I just used related wire wrap pins instead so I didn't need the notches. I also show how I attaches the focus assembly. I didn't have to cut the shield or anything like on the Cinelab's site.
 
Nope, no screws or notches. Although the "notches" look like someone just nipped the plastic with a pair a dikes. :)

In the picture album I showed how I went about attaching the wires to those pins. I just used related wire wrap pins instead so I didn't need the notches. I also show how I attaches the focus assembly. I didn't have to cut the shield or anything like on the Cinelab's site.

Nice. I'll take a good look at the pictures/captions. I'm replacing the flyback on a 20-Z2AW also (2 of them actually). How long ago did you do your flyback replacements, and how are they working out?
 
I fully rebuilt four of these last June or July and I've been using three since. Pictures have been great the whole time. Just make sure to adjust the B+ afterwards and you should be all set.
 
Well that took all night: removing the monitor from the cabinet, removing the chassis, doing a Bob Roberts "Plus" cap kit along with the filter cap, and installing that flyback transformer, reinstalling the chassis, and reinstalling the monitor. I was hoping the cap kit would fix the faint "jailbars" (I think that's what they are anyway) that show up in the last inch or two of the left side of the screen, but no change.

I'm glad I looked at your site because your method of replacing the flyback transformer is way better than the method in Cinelab's installation guide. In fact, the way the focus assembly is now mounted is even better than the original factory setup, because now the focus and screen pots poke through their holes in the cage and you can adjust them with your fingers. With the factory setup you have to use a screwdriver. I'll chalk that up to "Maine ingenuity".

The old flyback had some slight cracks and the picture would jump every now and then. That seems to be fixed, and as a bonus, I can focus the picture sharper than before. The picture looks really good.

B+ was right at 108.0 VDC, so I didn't have to do anything with that.

I have to do it all again for the upper monitor ... but not today, that's for sure. Probably not tomorrow or the next day either.
 
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I have to do it all again for the upper monitor ... but not today, that's for sure. Probably not tomorrow or the next day either.

Yeah... I hear you. I did *FOUR* of those suckers one after the other so I was totally burned out afterwards!

It's funny because after each one it got a little easier... by the 4th(which is the one I took the pictures of) I was fine and it just seemed like a job or something. :)

Glad the pics helped. :beerchug:
 
This is the 4th Nintendo/Sanyo chassis I've capped in the past 7 years, and the second one I've installed a flyback transformer in (the first FBT replacement was straightforward because it was an original one from another 20-Z2AW chassis, but it developed cracks recently, thus the need for another replacement). I can't imagine dealing with 4 Sanyo chassis one after the other. This time I did wise up though and printed out a cap map; before, most of the time was spent trying to find the capacitor locations among the jumbled maze of markings on the PCB.

On the one I did last night I also had to make several pad/trace repairs in various capacitor locations due to whichever hamfisted person had worked on the chassis in the past, so that added to the time it took. Some of the capacitors' pads were mangled, lifted, or flat out missing. For the worst ones I had to use wire to bridge to another nearby pad on the same trace because there was nothing to solder to otherwise.

By the way, the new FBT went right into its holes; I didn't have to fiddle with its pins at all.
 
Here's a little picture album with descriptions of when I did a few flyback replacements...
http://www.vidiotarcade.com/pub/Sanyo20Z2AWFlybackReplacement/

Not sure if I had a "bootleg" or not? I ordered my from Chad at ArcadeCup.com.

Thank you for the link and pictures. This is going to be really handy when I rebuild my chassis. Just got my cap kit and new flyback in the mail this week. I need to hone my soldering skills before I attack it though!
 
In fact, the way the focus assembly is now mounted is even better than the original factory setup, because now the focus and screen pots poke through their holes in the cage and you can adjust them with your fingers. With the factory setup you have to use a screwdriver.
I know many people do this, but it is not recommended. If there is a small crack or hole on the flyback you could get a very nasty shock.

Always use a screwdriver, plastic knife or some other sort of tool.
 
I know many people do this, but it is not recommended. If there is a small crack or hole on the flyback you could get a very nasty shock.

Always use a screwdriver, plastic knife or some other sort of tool.

The focus assembly is not part of the flyback, nor is it even contacting it. A crack or a hole in the flyback will arc to the metal flyback cage; that's what it is there for. In any event, since it is a brand new flyback, I don't expect any cracks or holes any time soon.
 
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