Harlem Globetrotters tech problem - can anyone take a look (on YouTube)?

pipcade

New member
Joined
Aug 4, 2009
Messages
557
Reaction score
5
Location
Virginia
Bad connector on the right of the solenoid driver. Possibilities:

1) Broken solder joints - check all on back of the board and reflow
2) CLEAN the pins with a light sandpaper (400 grit or finer)
3) RE-PIN the connector

No knocker. Possibilities:

1) Bad/missing coil. Check the coil to see if it has a burned wrapper, and be sure the plunger can move. Replace if necessary.
2) Bad solder joint on Solenoid driver - again, check all slder joints at connectors and reflow
3) Bad transistor or driver - replace Q3 and/or U1 on solenoid driver

If you get stuck and need repair assistance, I can go over your board, completely test and upgrade. But, this should get you started, good luck.

Chris
 
Excellent info - thanks. Nothing is missing, the game previously fully worked since it's been in my possession. :)

Bad connector on the right of the solenoid driver. Possibilities:

1) Broken solder joints - check all on back of the board and reflow
2) CLEAN the pins with a light sandpaper (400 grit or finer)
3) RE-PIN the connector

No knocker. Possibilities:

1) Bad/missing coil. Check the coil to see if it has a burned wrapper, and be sure the plunger can move. Replace if necessary.
2) Bad solder joint on Solenoid driver - again, check all slder joints at connectors and reflow
3) Bad transistor or driver - replace Q3 and/or U1 on solenoid driver

If you get stuck and need repair assistance, I can go over your board, completely test and upgrade. But, this should get you started, good luck.

Chris
 

At a minimum you have a problem at connector J3 on the regulator/driver board (very common). You need to replace the headers on the board and the pins in the connector. That will solve the first problem you show but there could easily be connector problems throughout the game waiting to pop up.

I would fix that first and go from there. That connector problem could also explain the solenoid problem. Several solenoid are also coming off that connector (look at the schematic). If not then it's likely a connector, driver transistor or pre-driver problem but I would deal with the connector at the regulator/driver board first.

The videos are a good idea. Makes troubleshooting virtually that much easier.

EDIT: If you're ordering pins, a crimper, etc... it's a good idea to also get some .156" pins (J3 on regulator/driver is .100"), headers and housings. Pick up a couple of TIP102 transistors just in case as well. Maybe check out the old pinrepair info and decide on other preventative maintenance work you might want to do and order that stuff too. Saves on shipping and you can do a ton of work with not much money if you're doing the stuff yourself :)
 
Last edited:
At a minimum you have a problem at connector J2 on the regulator/driver board (very common). You need to replace the headers on the board and the pins in the connector. That will solve the first problem you show but there could easily be connector problems throughout the game waiting to pop up.

I would fix that first and go from there. That connector problem could also explain the solenoid problem. Several solenoid are also coming off that connector (look at the schematic). If not then it's likely a connector, driver transistor or pre-driver problem but I would deal with the connector at the regulator/driver board first.

The videos are a good idea. Makes troubleshooting virtually that much easier.

Thanks Lindsey! I have a friend that's helping me fix it - he knows a little about pins so I'm sending this info to him. You guys are awesome.

And yeah - the videos make it much easier than trying to explain what happens.
 
Thanks Lindsey! I have a friend that's helping me fix it - he knows a little about pins so I'm sending this info to him. You guys are awesome.

And yeah - the videos make it much easier than trying to explain what happens.

Note that I edited my post to J3 from J2. I was working from memory then realized that was a bad idea, looked at the schematic, and proved myself right ;)

It's the top right connector on the regulator/driver board. That's where the unregulated voltages come in and regulated voltages go out. Easily one of the most important connectors in the game.
 
ok, more info...

Today I got a refurbished and tested good solenoid driver board from a local friend (he bought it as refurb and tested it and it was indeed working for him). I go to put it in mine and mine is a Stern board... ok, I know that there is an ultimate MPU that works for some stern and bally/midway games - I figure no biggie they must be interchangeable. I put the tested good B/M solenoid driver in and the MPU only flashes twice. Lights come on on playfield, 2 flashes only. I connect and disconnect all the connectors and try again. 2 flashes.

I then put my old Stern pcb back in and now it does 2 flashes also. Can't get it to do the proper amount any more so I can get to test mode. I look in the manual and it says if you don't get 7 flashes, replace the MPU.

Anyone have any other ideas or things to check? Does this definitively mean my MPU is bad?

Thanks!
Brian
 
Brokenjoy:
I just got a HG as my first pin. It developed the slow play/timer chip problem and I figured out the MPU still had some active corrosion (even though it had been repaired circa 1995) and had a new cordless phone type battery installed. I tried replacing a few suspect components with no luck. I set it aside for cleaning and a corrosion repair kit later, and got the Alltek MPU.

It has been super working with a known good mpu. If you don't have a ton of board work experience it takes away a lot of the mysteries and gives you confidence to troubleshoot other problems. I have been going through, setting up the lighting and solenoid boards with replacement fuses, scr's etc as needed and have gotten everything working well. My controlled and general lights were very intermittent until I replaced the pins and connectors on the power supply board. See pic for what my old connectors looked like.

When I get my original board working well, I will probably sell the Alltek board. They hold their value extremely well.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5002.JPG
    IMG_5002.JPG
    26.5 KB · Views: 8
Thanks! Yeah - I have been debating on getting the Ultimate MPU pcb - might make sense for a pin n00b like me.

Brokenjoy:
I just got a HG as my first pin. It developed the slow play/timer chip problem and I figured out the MPU still had some active corrosion (even though it had been repaired circa 1995) and had a new cordless phone type battery installed. I tried replacing a few suspect components with no luck. I set it aside for cleaning and a corrosion repair kit later, and got the Alltek MPU.

It has been super working with a known good mpu. If you don't have a ton of board work experience it takes away a lot of the mysteries and gives you confidence to troubleshoot other problems. I have been going through, setting up the lighting and solenoid boards with replacement fuses, scr's etc as needed and have gotten everything working well. My controlled and general lights were very intermittent until I replaced the pins and connectors on the power supply board. See pic for what my old connectors looked like.

When I get my original board working well, I will probably sell the Alltek board. They hold their value extremely well.
 
Got the ultimate mpu installed and still no joy though it's closer. Self test indicates solenoids 8 and 11. Game seems to work and can coin up but the music that plays when you start a game plays a few notes correctly then sounds... odd - like it's the wrong key or something. Ball won't get put into play. Any ideas? I need to record another video. Video uploading right now.
 
Last edited:
What was said earlier, check all wires, make sure they are not broken. Check for cold solder joints, those can be the reason things are not functioning. Had some on the original displays, reflowed all solder points and got those to work before I replaced them.

I have a Night Rider that has had problems for a long time. Mpu would start not start up. Decided to replace all the boards with the Alltek boards. What a difference. No more start up problems. Highly recommend the Alltek boards. While I was at it I also replaced he displays with the Pinscore displays. No more high voltage to deal with. Also highly recommend the Pinscore displays. Had many questions for both Alltek and Pinscore, they were very helpful and GREAT to talk to.
 
Watched the video. Can't tell you specificallly what is wrong yet, but llet's drill down.

First, no disrespect to anyone, but generic suggestions about replacing all the boards are a poor solution. It may be a soution for some, but not everyone. Why?

1) In MOST cases, you can get your boards repaired for far less than the $$ you'll spend on a new boardset, or what you think might be the issue. I just fixed a battery damaged System 11 MPU for one of the members here whose customer was about to pop big $$ on a new display - which was not going to fix the problem. Also, not everyone can afford to spend $$ on new boards.

2) Original boards were built for COMMERCIAL USE and designed to be "tasked" in severe environments - i.e., arcades, bowling alleys, etc. They are even less stressed under home use, so carefully rebuilt and upgraded boards still outweigh the cost of new.

3) One of the things that MPU sellers tout as "a wonderful feature" is it's ability to be used in many different games. For the casual user, they are going to stick it in one game and keep it there - so it's a moot selling feature.

OFF soapbox, on to the issue at hand.

In Harlem Globetrotters, solenoid 8 is for the right popbumper - check your right popbumper coil, be sure the wrapper is not burned or discolored. Solenoid 11 is for the coin door lockout - check the small solenoid inside the coin door to see if it is also burned up. Like the popbumper should have "popped" in self test, the coin door solenoid should have "clicked".

Sound board oddities - well, sound board did not sound right on game startup- it played some very high notes in with the others. Also note that the sound board IS on the test routine, after the solenoids - so the sound board going off may have just been the test routine, albeit pitched highly.

The sound board may need some attention. try fiddling with the two pots - one is for volume, one is for sustain. The sustain one is tricky - if it gets turned up too much, the notes will all blare and never be separated. ALSO: An old sound board like this should be recapped, replacing all the old electrolytic caps.

Check the solenoids first. The popbumper is critical, the coin lockout is not. You said the driver board was rebuilt - are you certain it's 100%? IF you require help with the sound board I am always available for board maintenance and repairs.

Good luck!

Chris
 
Also check the connector leaving the MPU (J4) and connecting to the sound board. Resolder the header pins on the sound board. Even if you can't see cracks, just do it and then see if it still sounds weird.
 
Back
Top Bottom