Thanks for the pics !!!
I never saw a pic of the CP out like that so that is already good to see, doesn't look as scary as drawings
Ezcellent pic of the pots.
They are Spectrol 534 pots. I found them for sale locally at my favorite parts supplier, RS online:
http://nl.rs-online.com/web/c/passi...4886244&lastAttributeSelectedBlock=4294956758
The cheapest one that doesn't have a picture actually has a link to the original Spectrol datasheet. It looks like Vishay acquired Spectrol as the datasheet of the Vishay 534's says Vishay Spectrol. They also changed the color. Good to know I can order them, relatively affordable, no shipping costs
Checking the datasheet Atari chose the sturdiest one, rated at 1.000.000 turns.....
Never knew the brushes looked like that. Do they fail often and how do I notice ?
Well I changed the pot at the weekend and it made no difference, so I guess the problem in my case must be the brushes. If you have trouble finding the right pot I can send you the one I took out of my game, as there's obviously nothing wrong with it. All I would ask is that you pay the postage costs.
The pot was actually quite easy to replace. The hardest part is manhandling the dashboard/steering assembly as it's so heavy, especially doing it on your own. I haven't linked the photos directly into this thread as it'll get huge otherwise, so have just used url links instead.
* Remember the motor and motor amp board handle 120V, so make sure the game has been unplugged for at least 5 minutes beforehand! *
1) You have to start by removing the two bolts on each side of the game:
Pic 1
2) Then remove the two Philips screws in the front of the dash assembly (no pic for those as you can't miss them). EDIT: Also remove the cover under the dash (2 Philips screws). I forgot this as it was already removed from my game.
3) Next you disconnect four wiring harnesses in the back of the game. On the left side is the right speaker connector:
Pic 2
4) Then on the right side, the 3-pin and 9-pin connectors in
Pic 3, followed by the 6-pin connector on the motor amp board (below the blue caps)
Pic 4
5) Now reach into the space behind the pedals in pics 3 and 4, and undo the two nuts highlighted in
Pic 5. The bolts will drop down into the cockpit area at the front. N.B. I also had to unscrew the bit of wood with the transformer bolted to it in Pic 3, to allow me to access the nut on that side.
6) You can then sit in the seat and slide the dash assembly out onto your lap (did I mention it's heavy

) . Also take care not to scrape the side panels as it's a very tight fit.
7) Once it's out, turn the wheel all the way to left and make sure it stays there. Next, loosen the little grub screw that holds the pot in place using an allen key (I think I used a 9/64" one), then undo the nut that holds the pot bracket in place -
Pic 6. Note the pot bracket will flip over when you do this as it's under tension from a spring.
8) Now remove the pot, desolder the 3 wires and solder them onto the new pot (red at the top, nearest the shaft, then the clear wire, then black).
9) At this point, check again that the steering wheel is still turned left as far as it will go. Next turn the pot all the way anti-clockwise, then turn it back a little way clockwise (about 15 degrees will do) and refit the pot, making sure the pot bracket is flipped back over once so there's some tension on the spring (you'll see what I mean when you do it), and tighten the nut and grub screw.
N.B. While I had the steering assembly out, I also took the opportunity to spray some WD40 onto the key switch assembly as it was quite stiff. It turns much more easily now.
10) Slide the dash assembly back into place, making sure you've fed the wiring harnesses back through the holes on each side. Refit the two bolts on each side, the two philips screws in the front of the dash, and the two nuts & bolts behind the dash. N.B. If working alone, I found it easier to refit these last two while lying in the cockpit, so that you can hold each bolt in place and then screw the nut onto it, to stop the bolt dropping down again. Then you can tighten them properly from the rear of the game.
11) Lastly, reattach the four wiring harnesses, and the wooden transformer mounting from Pic 3, if you had to unscrew it. Job done
Oh, and don't forget to run through the 'Set Controls' setup when you power the game up.
