hantrex polo 25 problem

death69inc

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have a polo dead to the world
pulled chassis to see if i find anything jumping out at me
found d135 was burnt in half need to find a replacement byv95c from what i have read on forums

question is would that cause it to be totally dead ?

do not get a hint that it even has power but it does fuse good looking over the chassis
forgive the noob terms a ceramic white 2 inch tall thing lol solder joints loose reflowed
dcoil plug also reflown seems polos might have a cold joint issue either case

I'm going to cap it as it has never had one
once i find a the d135 ill replace it

have a few monitors dead to the world at the moment but I wanted to get my gtg2k up and going

fig the polo would be easier than the sharp image its dead to the world except a weird sound not sure how to describe it but never had a monitor act like it is but that's another thread

was wanting maybe send these out to get them fixed but people i do know do this are a little busy lately I'm more a cap kit guy
 
the white ceramic things you speak of are resistors. apparently the solder joints on those are prone to BREAKING on the Polos. possibility is that you had no resistors and the HOT (high output transistor) got wiped out.

Chad at arcadecup.com is highly knowledgeable about these. I actually sent my Polo out to him last week, but even he's kind of backlogged.

he's based out of Wisconsin, so not that far of a haul to send, if you choose to go that route. the HOT I believe is the right-most transistor that's mounted to that metal heatsink on the right side of the chassis, if I'm not mistaken it's right by the resistor you speak of.

you could try replacing that on your own, I'd test it first. I can't remember the process for measuring transistors with a meter right now, so just google that or ask around on here if you need help with that.

I think the flybacks are prone to just taking a shit on these too, so just my personal advice, I'd send it out to get fixed right. these are supposedly a BITCH to work on, and everyone on KLOV seems to hate them for this, but as far as picture quality, shit, they're unrivaled IMO.

good luck, I wish I could help more but I don't know much about them either, just that I own 3 games that have them. lol
 
yes the transister is right next to the diode that is fried in half

no idea how to test them ill look it up

liek i siad im more of a cap kit guy
but i have replaced a few transisters flybacks and ics on monitors

but it gets expensive lol ill replace till i find the right thing if i cant find help

whillign to learn the right way to test but im so backloged with work I have it hard to find time to read shrugs
 
I don't remember what the chassis looks like. you're saying there's a diode before the white resistor that's fried in half, and the resistor was cooked?

yeah, surely that'll obliterate the HOT. :)

I re-capped one of these before. I stand corrected, I have FOUR of them now, my 33" showcase has one too, I have to recap it and my KI1 one. they're kind of a bitch, cause of those metal power supply covers. have to make sure you twist the tabs right, or you wind up cracking the chassis like I did trying to force it off. :D
 
the diode was fried next to the transister

cover came off fine no cracks

ill replace the transister for good measure
the diode
and a cap it
see where im at after that
 
update

replaced d135 diode
replaced transister next to it BU508A
and installed cap kit cap next to transister fell aprt when removed and had melted black junk i had to clean off board

fired it up and boom its back and nice picture well needs a little deguasing lower corner and left middle but i dont have a to do it other than magnet and its not that bad

ill order a deguassing wand have a few customer locations that neeed deguassing as well
 
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