hantrax 9000

coinopjunkie

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So I have a working hantrax 9000 take it for an hour drive in the back of my truck, when I plug it in it works for a few seconds and I see it spark. I take the chasie out and look at it I find a burnt resistor I change it out fire it up and nothing happens except the degaus coil fires. I go over the flow chart and do most of the steps I couldn't for example change IC 2 because I don't have one but everything on the chart that I can check I have, I do have high voltage but disconnecting d10 does nothing, everything else on the chart appears fine. So I gave up on trying to trouble shoot because everyone including ken layton says on the hantrex start with a cap kit so I did a bob roberts cap kit, new fly new hot new filter cap and its the same, I don't think the new flyback has ever even had juice to it as I get no sound or spark or anything when I discharge it. The only thing I have found is there are 6 similar looking components on the board 3 of them show continuity and 3 don't ? even out of circuit so I would assume 3 are bad and they are near the burnt resistor. Can anyone tell me what they are and if they should are shouldn't have continuity when checking with the diode function on my digital meter? They are the green resistor looking things in the pictures.
 

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more pics

I circled the areas I'm talking about the 3 green things circled show continuity and the resistor is the one that burnt.
 

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Firstly, please use paragraphs. People are not going to be keen on helping you when your post is an absolute nightmare to read.

The continuity function is no good for testing resistors. Use an appropriate resistance setting. That brown resistor shows no sign of burning?

Was this monitor plugged in via an iso?
 
firstly

if you are going to grade my post like a term paper don't read don't reply I'm not going to be to keen on you if you talk trash to me. I'd rather not have your help.
 
answers

If anyone wants to help with out talking trash and can stomach reading my post I'll answer his questions. The brown resistors I believe is just heavy dust they all have it and looks to be junk. Yes it has always been hooked to an iso in the same cabinet for the last 7 years everything was fine until I transported it.
 
if you are going to grade my post like a term paper don't read don't reply I'm not going to be to keen on you if you talk trash to me. I'd rather not have your help.
Fine, I won't help you any further then. I will point out that you're an idiot though, you can't spell the name of the chassis you're working on, you write like an 8 year old, and you can't even identify a resistor.
 
yeah, lest we forget, this site is available for free right? careful what you say... you might piss off the one guy that has the answer to your question.

and for the record, it's Hantarex, Made In Italy. I'm sure you saw it on the neckboard label. ;)

good luck getting this fixed.
 
oh no what will I do

what does this is free have to do with anything. I'm not writing a term paper here if you don't want to read don't. But don't think you can talk trash to me. I don't want your help that bad I have managed to fix everything by myself so far, I come here to have fun not be lectured on my spelling or lack of. I'm not going to post here if every time I do I have someone like you that thinks they are better then me talk trash. I promise you might win the spelling bee but I know I'm better then you. There are few people here that I would not want to anger and it's not the two of you.
yeah, lest we forget, this site is available for free right? careful what you say... you might piss off the one guy that has the answer to your question.

and for the record, it's Hantarex, Made In Italy. I'm sure you saw it on the neckboard label. ;)

good luck getting this fixed.
 
you have no class

I love people who talk tough on these boards. You have no class if you had to tell me this you could have at least pm'ed it.
Fine, I won't help you any further then. I will point out that you're an idiot though, you can't spell the name of the chassis you're working on, you write like an 8 year old, and you can't even identify a resistor.
 
thanks for the record

Oh now maybe people will now what I was talking about with that spelling error how did you even know what it was.
yeah, lest we forget, this site is available for free right? careful what you say... you might piss off the one guy that has the answer to your question.

and for the record, it's Hantarex, Made In Italy. I'm sure you saw it on the neckboard label. ;)

good luck getting this fixed.
 
Slow your roll a little bit and grow a sense of humor. He just asked you to organize your thoughts a little so that we could help you easier. No need to get all pissy.

Now....did you use an iso when you plugged in the monitor?
 
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Dude. Slow your roll a little bit and grow a sense of humor. He just asked you to organize your thoughts a little so that we could help you easier. No need to get all pissy.

Now....did you use an iso when you plugged in the monitor?

Seriously, I was just joshing the OP cause of those labels Hantarex puts on the neckboards.

I have a hard enough time getting responses from people when I lay out tons of details and try to structure what I'm talking about well. Hewitson had the right idea, my point about these boards being free is that no one is obligated to answer anything. If you want help with something, most people are going to ignore the jumble of words, thats all.

Nobodys talking shit about you, nobody pissed in your cereal today. but after this, even if I knew the answer to your problem I wouldnt help you until you apologize for telling me fuck you via pm, twice.
 
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micheal-jackson-eating-popcorn-theater-gif.gif
 
if you are going to grade my post like a term paper don't read don't reply I'm not going to be to keen on you if you talk trash to me. I'd rather not have your help.

Stop.

First off, he has a point. If it's hard to read then people will be less likely to want to try to walk you through testing things.

Secondly, those "green things" are resistors. If you are going to work on monitors take a bit of time to learn the components and how to read schematics. Reading schematics is as easy as reading a map and Hewitson was telling you that you need to check those components differently than what you are doing. Continuity checks are NOT the proper test for resistors.

Third, Hewtison asked you if you plugged this in with an iso, which is short for Isolation Transformer. Most older monitors REQUIRE an isolation transformer to keep things from frying. It's a 1:1 transformer, meaning put 120v in and you get 120v out.

Step back and relax. Don't take the posting and feedback so serious.

RJ
 
Can you read ?

Dude. Slow your roll a little bit and grow a sense of humor. He just asked you to organize your thoughts a little so that we could help you easier. No need to get all pissy.

Now....did you use an iso when you plugged in the monitor?

I answered that in the first response.
 
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Let's look at your picture...

attachment.php


Those green resistors are flameproof power resistors and are higher wattage than the resistor you put back into the circuit. You'll want to remove the resistor you put in and replace it with the proper wattage resistor. Resistors do what they are named as - resist the flow of current in a circuit. As they do that they generate heat within themselves. Too much heat and they burn up - which is why the need to be sized phyically for the circuit for heat dissipation.

Now let's look at the markings: 4k7 on the bigger one and 1k0 on the smaller one. The others we can't see markings on in the picture so I can't comment on those.

1K0, the 1K = 1000 ohms. The zero after it is for hundreds so 1K0 = 1000 ohms.

4K7, the 4K = 4000 ohms. The 7 after it is for hundreds so 4K7 = 4700 ohms

These are too high to be read with continuity checks on a multimeter. My Radio Shack meter will beep contiunity for anything under 300 ohms which is problematic when testing continuity as you want that to be as close to zero as possible. This means you have to read the screen when testing continuity to ensure you really have "continuity" and not resistance.

To read these you need to use the Ohms function on your multimeter and set the range appropriately. Do not use the "diode" test or "continuity" test to test resistors.

Raymond
 
Now with that previous post explaining the green colored power resistors, go back and check the resistor you claimed was burnt and see if it really is bad. Use the resistance (ohms) check on your multimeter.

Post a pic of it so we can see if it truly is burned up.

If it really is bad we can give you pointers on troubleshooting further. If it's not bad then put it back in the monitor.

Also, have you checked the fuses on the monitor to ensure they are good? I haven't looked at the schematic for this Hantarex, but some monitors have fuses that aren't in obvious places which can cause problems if you miss them.

Monitors have 2 power supplies in them. The main one powers the horizontal output section which drives the flyback transformer to create high voltage and more. The flyback transformer has taps on it to derive other voltages from it to run other things in the monitor such as the vertical drive circuit and sometimes the heater voltage for the monitor. You have to troubleshoot the main power supply first.

RJ
 
Thanks

Thanks I did assume they were some type of resistor but was not sure I don't like to assume. The resistor I replaced was the same type and wattage as the one I put in, I would never replace a part with something that looked totally different with out someone telling me too. The other two resistors that you can't read I can't either so I will have to do some reading to find there values. As for a picture of the burnt resistor it's long in the trash but I'm more then 100 % certain it was burnt it was in pieces as soon as it was touched and you couldn't read anything on it no colors it was toast. I know you guys don't think I know anything because I have never seen a flame proof resistor before but I repair a monitor chassis almost every night so I have done quite a few in the last couple months, most of them successful some not, but mostly any problems I have had no one has been able to tell me why, and most someone has already attempted to fix. I have been repairing games for over 10 years and I have fixed some games without ever knowing what the parts are called until someone helps me and tells me what they are called, I take an educated guess whats wrong go to the store and say I need one of these. I have even had the ceo of IGT help me. Thanks for the help, you have always tried to help me in the past one of a handful of people here. I take insulting someones intelligence very serious and will never have a since of humor over it. If I take an hour to try and correct any non essential errors that is an hour less I get to work on the game. I'm usually working on the game as I type and looking for fast help, if it's out there if not I have almost always been able to do it alone. But why do it alone if someone can put up with my ignorance with out insult has been there and done that and save me some time. Sincerely thanks for the help to you and the few others that have helped.
Let's look at your picture...

attachment.php


Those green resistors are flameproof power resistors and are higher wattage than the resistor you put back into the circuit. You'll want to remove the resistor you put in and replace it with the proper wattage resistor. Resistors do what they are named as - resist the flow of current in a circuit. As they do that they generate heat within themselves. Too much heat and they burn up - which is why the need to be sized phyically for the circuit for heat dissipation.

Now let's look at the markings: 4k7 on the bigger one and 1k0 on the smaller one. The others we can't see markings on in the picture so I can't comment on those.

1K0, the 1K = 1000 ohms. The zero after it is for hundreds so 1K0 = 1000 ohms.

4K7, the 4K = 4000 ohms. The 7 after it is for hundreds so 4K7 = 4700 ohms

These are too high to be read with continuity checks on a multimeter. My Radio Shack meter will beep contiunity for anything under 300 ohms which is problematic when testing continuity as you want that to be as close to zero as possible. This means you have to read the screen when testing continuity to ensure you really have "continuity" and not resistance.

To read these you need to use the Ohms function on your multimeter and set the range appropriately. Do not use the "diode" test or "continuity" test to test resistors.

Raymond
 
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