Hantarex Polo screen issues

Deadpool66

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I fully recapped & reflyed the chassis well at least with the caps included in the kit. Black lines appearing through the left side of the screen.

jailbar.jpg
IMAG0341.jpg


Any Ideas? I did replace c14 and c177
 
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Guess Ill just pull the chassis and check those location using the forbidden flow chart.
 
Alright double checked the caps and they look good. Guide I found online says to check r36 and 270r. I can find r36 but where the hell is 270r?
 
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KLOV </3 Polos.

I've seen arcade controls with a lot of action regarding them though. they're a little more open to working with what they've got rather than giving in to a selective classic orgy of WG 4600s and K7000s and giving you the "tough shit" treatment.
 
I have a chassis here that does the EXACT SAME THING! Black lines down the left side. I replaced the chassis. Still have the funky chassis here. If you get a solution, please let me know.
 
Wiki says if caps don't fix it its these are bad r36 and 270r. I don't have a meter currently but plan on checking them out when I get one. Maybe Ken Layton could shed some light on this.
 
I sold it went to test it noticed it had multiple cold solder points on neckboard actual parts were loose to touch and shocked me. Reflowed them powered it up and vertical collapse. Then I tested it this morning and it was dead.
 
I fully recapped & reflyed the chassis well at least with the caps included in the kit. Black lines appearing through the left side of the screen.

jailbar.jpg
IMAG0341.jpg


Any Ideas? I did replace c14 and c177

Count 1 more.


I also have a POLO 25" standard resolution chassis with the same problem (black lines on the left side).


It was working fine until it died (clicking noise), i replaced the flyback and it came back to life but those black lines appeared on the left side.


Did a cap kit but the lines were still there, changing the HOT didn't solve the problem.


http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=190911


Please let me know if you find a solution to this problem.
 
Count 1 more.


I also have a POLO 25" standard resolution chassis with the same problem (black lines on the left side).


It was working fine until it died (clicking noise), i replaced the flyback and it came back to life but those black lines appeared on the left side.


Did a cap kit but the lines were still there, changing the HOT didn't solve the problem.


http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=190911


Please let me know if you find a solution to this problem.

Thread resurrection:

I will be looking into this chassis with a friend and will see what we can come up with. I will be working on a Polo 2, standard and med. res but I think I can reproduce this issue.
 
you can make the black line disappear by alternate adjusting between the brightness and contrast. your brightness (you're probably not even going to read this) is set way too high.

the replacement flybacks do this.
 
you can make the black line disappear by alternate adjusting between the brightness and contrast. your brightness (you're probably not even going to read this) is set way too high.

the replacement flybacks do this.

I've got a Polo that gives me fucked up brightness issues too. I'm beginning to wonder if there was a batch of bad replacement flybacks out there.

I have another fly I'm going to try tonight, will report back results.
 
I've got a Polo that gives me fucked up brightness issues too. I'm beginning to wonder if there was a batch of bad replacement flybacks out there.

I have another fly I'm going to try tonight, will report back results.

had a chassis I bought off here that had a replacement flyback, I had never needed to run it until the local arcade had a 25" monitor shortage.... so I donated mine to the cause. :) it didn't last very long. so last night I opted to throw an original flyback back on it and while you can hear it come on, you can hear it shut off immediately. a check of the B+ at TP6 yielded 160+V, but you try making that adjustment on one of those stupid fucking Neo-Geo cabs where you get like a 3 inch slit to even see the monitor and not a single cabinet in the establishment that's viable for testing has the correct plug. so I have to hunt around the house to find my adapter that I tap into a power cord for the wall.

when it actually still worked before though, it did this weird shit where in UMK3 if you go to the single color tests, it would vertically collapse on red and green. LOL I figured right then that the B+ wasn't right, I was just a dickhead and didn't bother adjusting it. also to the best of my knowledge the caps on it are new, but I can't remember if I did it or not.

the little block capacitors by the HOT are extremely important as they filter the HOT, if you have a Polo that eats HOTs chances are those are going bad. I never bothered looking up the parts on mouser or whatever though, if anyone's able to read those numbers or decipher what the Polo manual calls for at those parts locations that would be fantastic. and make a project file for it so we can all order them to replace them!
 
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