Hantarex Polo cap maps (by request)

mecha said:
you followed my instructions in the big guide and soldered the long leg that's folded in too right? :D
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Yes indeed. I had to make a new route to it though because the pad came up when I desoldered it.
What I did not do is bend the larger wire that wraps up and over the fly so I could solder it in.

Your site is very cool.
 
yeah, I've had to do some interesting hacks on one Polo in the flyback area. I'm not 100% sure how it cracked, but it did, and it broke a lot of traces in doing so. when I first did it, I tried bending the pins and soldering to scraped traces, and I was told that's not the best way to do it. so I went ahead and made loops in wire with a dental pick to make like homemade solder pads, ran that around the pins and then soldered the wire to the trace.

monitors taught me much in that area. :D

especially that one K8000.. (EVERY flyback solder pad came off, and it wasn't my doing)
 
Bumping an old thread here, but in this case it seems more fitting than a new thread.

Question is about what models of Polo, and the mystery of cap C150. The polo I have doesn't have a separate PS board, as listed for Bobs kit, but he does have a C217 I can't locate and its not on this cap map either.

C150 on this chassis is 10 uF 100V, and I saw another link that mentions 63V as well. Does anyone know the minimum voltage for C150? Was wondering if i might be able to get by with the C217 cap instead, at 50V.

Any ideas?
 
Not sure why C150 would be a mistery cap (LOL) and not also C149 as they're the same cap on the sync lines. C150 is useless anyway as it's on the vsync and you connect csync from the game board to hsync. The schematics say they're 50V and then you find that the actual caps are 63V or 100V. That's quite normal as Hantarex often used higher values than in the schematics (e.g. 25V instead of 16V).

There's no C217 on the chassis, either electrolytic, ceramic or polyester.
 
I really need to do this again someday. I have several Polos from seemingly different generations (like K7000s, they appear to have unique mods) that I need to cap.

it's been a number of years, I don't really remember much about them anymore.
 
iankellogg said:
Mecha if you are up to the challenge I would love to send you one of my kits to verify. I used your write up here and I am indebt to you for it.
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really, you did?

that guide I made for it was more like my own little science experiment. it was a chassis I bought that was plastered in dirt and I just wanted to wash it. the only real psychology to the Polo is those ceramic resistors on the side, the solder joints just break on them. I've handled those a number of different ways and haven't really settled on one particular way yet.

I actually put that chassis to real world use years later and it didn't survive long, my best educated guess is the B+ was too high. it's in limbo on another tube elsewhere right now, I'd like to steal it back and work on it again one day.
 
mecha said:
I really need to do this again someday. I have several Polos from seemingly different generations (like K7000s, they appear to have unique mods) that I need to cap.

it's been a number of years, I don't really remember much about them anymore.
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all the cap kits out there for the polo i have seen were very incomplete and even not accurate. i know in december i went through a 25" polo chassis to verify all caps, but i always try to go through chassis and schematics for all kits because most kits or listing people did were not complete and usually only based on high failure caps and mine i want every cap replaced and even the 4600 i include the axial C621 cap in the kit because i am seeing that cap failing more and more lately. i have bought a ton of chassis here over the years when i find them unmolested so i can use them to verify all caps and i even try to match up lead spacing better then other vendors kits i have seen so caps fit much better.
 
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are you sure its C602? thats a Y cap and I would seriously not expect that to fail. Especially since C603 is the same thing in more or less the same roll. or even C604 which is an X cap.
 
yeah, I have some of these that look all original. should be interesting what I come up with.
 
iankellogg said:
are you sure its C602? thats a Y cap and I would seriously not expect that to fail. Especially since C603 is the same thing in more or less the same roll. or even C604 which is an X cap.
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corrected typo c621. i am the first and only vendor so far to include this in the 4600 kit and have had it included for about a year now.
 
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Hey mec, I've been having issues with my polo and still need help. I did a cap kit, the flyback and hot are healthy, traces are good as far as I can see, and the damn thing is still in hv shutdown. I finally got it to fire up after running a lamp to dive through the short and supply a load. But then it shut down again. I believe the shorted part is on the deflection side of the board and not power supply due to the light bulb tests. Anyways, the remote control board made contact with metal and shorted out. All of the parts on that are healthy but it ran to the monitor chassis where the control board plugs in. Any suspected areas I should check? Thanks
 
TheEnglishTear said:
Hey mec, I've been having issues with my polo and still need help. I did a cap kit, the flyback and hot are healthy, traces are good as far as I can see, and the damn thing is still in hv shutdown. I finally got it to fire up after running a lamp to dive through the short and supply a load. But then it shut down again. I believe the shorted part is on the deflection side of the board and not power supply due to the light bulb tests. Anyways, the remote control board made contact with metal and shorted out. All of the parts on that are healthy but it ran to the monitor chassis where the control board plugs in. Any suspected areas I should check? Thanks
Click to expand...

little beyond my scope. I would ask Chad.

I have had these with cracks that you'd never know they were cracks. :) they appear to be surface scratches until you meter them. the flyback section in particular breaks.
 
Didn't see a clear answer but for C144 on a 25", do I replace it with another 2200uf or use the 1000uf that comes in a cap kit?
 
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