Hantarex Polo cap maps (by request)

mecha

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supadave1 requested a cap map for the Hantarex Polo. I mentioned in some threads that I generally hand draw these whenever I do a cap kit, but I figured that would be aesthetically unpleasant, so I drew it in a PNG. (probably 90% to scale lol)

EDIT: deflection and neck boards up. couldn't read the cap values on the pincushion board... not high on the list of importance, but thought it would be nice for the sake of completion. when I recap my showcase 33" I might do it then. I'm not entirely sure if those caps are included in kits though, due to their relative rarity (guessing).

I intend on doing some more cap maps for the Wells-Gardner U5000, K7500, and maybe some others if anyone's interested.

polocapmap.png
 
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oh hey, haha, I just sent you a pm saying you should share this and here it is!! Ignore my message.. Thank you.. I know many of the techs here don't need this but it helps me alot to see ahead where things are gonna need to go..

Thank you good sir!!
 
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that IS the HOT, right? do you know what the other transistor and that other package attached to the heatsink are?
 
did I miss any caps? I looked it over a few times and think I got them all, it should be like 30 caps in full. anyone got the cap kit sheet? post it if you got it.
 
Ken Layton sent me a very nice guide for this chassis as well.. It's not the Randy flowchart but something Ken made himeself. I don't want to repost it without his permission though.

I ordered a cap kit, it should come with a sheet.. I'll see what it is and scan it.
 
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I know this is a couple of months late, but here's the Bob Roberts list for his cap kit:

1uf 100v - C165/C401
2.2uf 50v - C159/C160
4.7uf 100v - C146
4.7uf 250v - C14
10uf 50v - C217/C184
10uf 160v - C123 PS Board
22uf 50v - C182
22uf 50v - C112/C114 PS Board
47uf 25v - C18/C142
47uf 250v - C177
100uf 25v - C12/C130/C166
100uf 200v - C168
100uf 200v - C121 PS Board
220uf 16v - C157
220uf 25v - C111/C129 PS Board
220uf 35v - C137
1000uf 35v - C139/C144


Mecha, the missing C??? number is C149 - 10uf 50. I still have mine out and open if anyone has questions regarding something else for this. I'll be posting pictures in my thread if that helps anyone as well.
 
I have no idea what the hell happened on that cap near the V. Adj. pot LOL

I'm guessing that's a C149 though (C150 is nearby). the other cap that I didn't know is on the right side.
 
Yep, the one on the left all scrambled is C149 10uf 50v, the one on the right, next to the flyback is C177 / 47uf 250v(going off Bob Robert's kit). "Missed it byyyyy that much."
 
Has anyone ever fixed one of these besides me??

The Other day I had a revolution X come in
Tech had brought in a year ago to get rebuilt
i finished it and mark the date on it..1-10
thats over a year ago!!

The picture is perfect!
We were swapping out games for newer ones
all i had to do was replace some switches.
The monitor chassis still running good with the full cap kit
which includes the HV caps and vertical Ic.
A few others are out there too that were rebuilt..


Based on my experience and WAG's
The retrace and HV safty caps are dryed out the HV is running wild
may run correctly at one point then go out of range,causing
a series of parts to be replaced, they work very close together to keep
the HV, width Etc, within specs,but when they are failing the HOT and Damper diode suffer!
The more you force it to work without rebuilding the High Voltage circuit
the more parts will fail like the damper diode and more HOTs
Heres a pic i found from another thread,just for show and tell.
The Polypropylene Film caps have different values need to look on the part.
If anyone has any questions about the parts i'm referring to,let me know.
Good Luck!
 

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Stretching on Polo 25 Hantarex

Hey folks, new to the forums. Have had at least 1 game in the house for the last 10 years, and have often used these forums as a knowledge base because any question that I had, usually had been asked (and answered) first.
Recently I picked up a MK2 with some exterior cosmetic damage for $50, but amazingly, the PCB worked, and the monitor was bright with great color. The only problem is that the monitor gradually compresses the image from top to bottom. On the test pattern screen, the top row of boxes are tall, the next are a little shorter, the next are even shorter, and the bottom row is about 66% the height of the top row. During gameplay, it makes the fighters look like they have stumpy legs. I purchased a cap kit from Bob Roberts, and am about to go to work, but I thought I'd take a couple days to see if that is really going to help. Does anyone know what causes that problem? Maybe I'm headed in the wrong direction. Thanks in advance!!!
 
Hey folks, new to the forums. Have had at least 1 game in the house for the last 10 years, and have often used these forums as a knowledge base because any question that I had, usually had been asked (and answered) first.
Recently I picked up a MK2 with some exterior cosmetic damage for $50, but amazingly, the PCB worked, and the monitor was bright with great color. The only problem is that the monitor gradually compresses the image from top to bottom. On the test pattern screen, the top row of boxes are tall, the next are a little shorter, the next are even shorter, and the bottom row is about 66% the height of the top row. During gameplay, it makes the fighters look like they have stumpy legs. I purchased a cap kit from Bob Roberts, and am about to go to work, but I thought I'd take a couple days to see if that is really going to help. Does anyone know what causes that problem? Maybe I'm headed in the wrong direction. Thanks in advance!!!

if you look at the picture, there's an adjustment pot called "V. Linearity", which stands for Vertical Linearity. that's what controls the vertical proportions, if you will. it's not the kind of adjustment pot that has a knob, you'll have to use a small phillips screwdriver, and you will have to be extra careful. you will also either need a mirror to see your results or have another pair of eyes present (that actually understands what you're trying to do, this is important :)) while you do it.

I will assume you are aware of monitor discharging and the like if you're going for the gusto with a cap kit. I want to warn you to be careful when you pop the power supply cage off -- there will be 2 phillips head screws on the side you undo, you may or may not need a flathead to pry the bottom tray off. the actual cage part though has tabs that you twist once you feed them through the holes in the chassis, make sure you straighten these with needlenose pliers first before attempting to pull the cage off. I've cracked TWO Polos being an idiot (one when I was a noob, the other a couple weeks ago like an idiot :D) and if you happen to do so good luck doing patchwork.. I'll reiterate, you want to remove the bottom tray first and then straighten the tabs on the cage part before pulling it out.

congratulations on your purchase, I hope you get this sorted out.
 
Updated Cap Map

**Updated 1/28/2013**
- Added Remote board with C401
- Added C146
RMUfLpq.png


Mecha, thank you very much for doing this originally it helped me quite a bit. I just finished mine and I took the liberty of doing a few updates/corrections.

** Extremely helpful with pictures - http://www.organizedmassconfusion.org/hantarex-polo-maintenance

I ordered the polo cap kit from Bob Roberts, there were a few discrepancies that I will list.

Bob Robert's list:

* was included with the kit but could not locate on the chassis.
C125/C1/C2/C3/C150/C181/C110 caps on the board but were not included in kit or list.

1uf 100v C165/C401
2.2uf 50v C159/C160
4.7uf 100v C146
10uf 50v C21/C184 C149/C217*
10uf 160v C123 PS board
22uf 50v C182
22uf 50v C112/C114 PS board
47uf 25v C18/C142
47uf 250v C177
100uf 25v C12/C130/C166
100uf 200v C168
100uf 200v C121 PS board
220uf 16v C157
220uf 25v C111/C129 PS board
220uf 35v C137
1000uf 35v C139/C144
_____________________________________________

It's entirely possible and likely that these extra caps are just not required but I'm e-mailing Bob just in case. :)

Thanks.
 
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I don't have access to any of my game stuff right now. I made this using a crusty old chassis where I couldn't see all the caps. Therefore.. it's due for a redo. Depends 200% on when I have time to make a trip out that way again though.
 
Looks like you did the same thing as me.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=2243703&postcount=16http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?p=2243703#post2243703

Just curious, does your board have C142? I don't see it on your cap map.

Mitch

Ahh cool, I didn't see you had already done this. would have saved me some time. :) the little caps over by the left metal frame I moved a bit to better represent the board.

I'll add C142 I must have overlooked that.. I'll just update my earlier post with the updated image.
 
Just a bump to this thread as I am doing my first Polo 25" repair. I got the fly, HOT and Cap kit from Bob Roberts.

His cap kit is missing C125; 470uf 35v - but I have one

I pulled C159 and C160 and they are both 2.2uf 100v. I know the kit is supposed to contain 2.2uf 50v for those two caps, but my kit doesn't even include those.. but, I have a couple of those too, as well as a couple 2.2uf 250v

So my question is, Is it cool to use lower voltage caps than I pulled and use the 50v caps, or go ahead and use the ones at 250v?
 
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that's unusual. I'll admit, I probably made a mistake in my list, I don't think I have any of my sheets from Happ or Bob Roberts anymore though, and I also have no Polos with me. :/

if you want though I can double check with my Happ rep tomorrow on the Polo cap list they have.

also, chances are I included caps in the map that are not part of the usual cap kits, I wanna say there were a few I didn't ever change.
 
Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and threw the 50v caps in there as all the lists I've found on the net show them being 50v.

And I found out why I didn't have the 2.2uf 50v caps, because instead I received three 22uf 50v. And the Polo only requires 1 of those.

And furthermore, I will say without a doubt, the new flyback was the biggest PITA to install that I have ever encountered. The three sided heat sink makes it nearly impossible to see where the pins are so as to line them up. Glad my kids weren't around to hear me :eek:

I don't know if I'll be heading to the Ops place tonight or tomorrow night, but when we throw this chassis back in the Carnevil hopefully she fires up nicely.
 
you followed my instructions in the big guide and soldered the long leg that's folded in too right? :D
 
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