Hantarex Polo - anyone have a PCB drawing?

jehuie

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I'm working on my first Hantarex and having a hard time reading the numbers for components on the PCB. It's dirty and has some burns in spots that make it very unclear. It would be very useful to find a drawing of the thing with components identified on it but I don't see one in the manual. I was able to find a cap map for it but it doesn't show any of the other components.

Anyone know if something like that is out there anywhere?

Thanks!
 
I made this a few months back:http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=164549&highlight=polo+cap+map

I think I had like one irregularity on one of the caps on the right side, but it's about 99% close for you.

all else fails you can match the old cap values for the ??? ones, I haven't found Polo caps to be that far off from the replacements. not like Wells monitors where the voltages are like entirely different. lol

EDIT: SterlingRush replied in that thread with corrections.

good luck. Polos are relatively easy to work on if you have the right stuff. a desoldering iron is a must for desoldering the cage to do the power supply caps.
 
Thank you. I found that one earlier and it's very helpful. I was hoping something out there showed the other components as well but I think I'm out of luck. Running the thing through the dishwasher right now so that might make it easier to identify the parts. Like the test point for B+ for instance. I couldn't find it.

I appreciate the link though!
 
according to Chad, the most effective way to test B+ on a Polo is at the yoke. as for where there exactly, I can't tell you. never tried it myself. I don't really even remember what a Polo yoke looks like.
 
according to Chad, the most effective way to test B+ on a Polo is at the yoke. as for where there exactly, I can't tell you. never tried it myself. I don't really even remember what a Polo yoke looks like.

Test it at the black loop of wire on the yoke connector.
 
Test it at the black loop of wire on the yoke connector.

that's it. the black loop. I knew it was black something. but like I said, I'm not familiar with the yoke at all lol.

that yoke's interesting. it auto-converges. :confused:
 
Test it at the black loop of wire on the yoke connector.

Cool, thanks guys. My wife noticed that the main PCB has a pretty good sized crack in it near the flyback. It's obvious that someone has repaired it but not sure if it will really work right once I repair whatever else is wrong with it.

I'll work on it but if anyone has a spare chassis for this thing I'm interested!

You guys are truly a wealth of knowledge.
 
they probably cracked it trying to pull the cage off, and they didn't desolder it first. it's not inhumanly impossible to fix the break, if any traces were broken you can always bridge them with solder and wire. you'll have to get a picture of how bad it is from the bottom to really gauge what's going on with it.
 
they probably cracked it trying to pull the cage off, and they didn't desolder it first. it's not inhumanly impossible to fix the break, if any traces were broken you can always bridge them with solder and wire. you'll have to get a picture of how bad it is from the bottom to really gauge what's going on with it.

Yeah, someone has already done that. It looks like they did a decent job of bridging the breaks with wire. I'll poke around on it. I've got the forbidden RF flowchart so I have enough info to be dangerous! :)
 
you said you gave it a bath? did you make sure you thoroughly dried it? especially under ICs and what not. if you happen to have an air compressor, that works wonders getting the excess water out, then I suppose you could use a hair dryer if you got one. lol I mentioned in another thread that I use the hand dryers at work for drying out boards I washed... I did a Defender PS board first, and then a K7000 chassis that was so dirty it almost looked brown. the Defender board was ready to use that same night. :)
 
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you said you gave it a bath? did you make sure you thoroughly dried it? especially under ICs and what not. if you happen to have an air compressor, that works wonders getting the excess water out, then I suppose you could use a hair dryer if you got one. lol I mentioned in another thread that I use the hand dryers at work for drying out boards I washed... I did a Defender PS board first, and then a K7000 chassis that was so dirty it almost looked brown. the Defender board was ready to use that same night. :)

Yeah I washed it yesterday so I could see the numbers on it better. It's baking out in the sun as I type this. It should be warm enough to really get the water out of it today before I do anything more with it. I have plenty of other projects in the meantime. I also have a lead on a spare board that I may pick up.
 
I took a gamble on one of those a few months ago. I was able to scalp a working flyback from it for another chassis. at any rate, I got my KI2 to work again with it after I replaced the HOT, capped it, and stole some filter caps from another chassis... best $35 I spent.

what exactly is wrong with yours right now?
 
Well I followed the flowchart and the B+ was way to high (almost 200v) so I replaced C114 as indicated and retested. It was supposed to either fix the problem or lead me to the next step in the flowchart but instead now my B+ is reading zero.

So I think I screwed up something. I'll check further tomorrow if I can find the time. In the meantime, can anyone tell me where T114 is on this beast? I hunted and hunted. Is it the biggish transistor mounted on a heat sink kinda near C114? I can't read the label as the board has been scorched there.
 
Well I followed the flowchart and the B+ was way to high (almost 200v) so I replaced C114 as indicated and retested. It was supposed to either fix the problem or lead me to the next step in the flowchart but instead now my B+ is reading zero.

So I think I screwed up something. I'll check further tomorrow if I can find the time. In the meantime, can anyone tell me where T114 is on this beast? I hunted and hunted. Is it the biggish transistor mounted on a heat sink kinda near C114? I can't read the label as the board has been scorched there.

T114 is the HOT (BU508A) on the right side of the chassis.
 
check the big white block resistors on the side too. apparently those are prone to cracking solder joints and such. they're vital to the operation of that chassis.
 
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