Hantarex Polo 25" Repair Video

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So I've been working on a Hantarex Polo 25". Check out the video if you have some time. Thanks!

 
16:18
The longer lead (ground for screen and focus trimmers) could be bent and soldered to pin 5 (also ground) before installing the flyback on the chassis. One less pin to worry about when you try to get the flyback pins to align with the holes.

26:48
The original HOT for this chassis is BU508A (also AF or AFI). What you had there (2SC3688) and your replacement (J6920) are meant for high res monitors and a HOT rated higher may not be a good thing:

http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_deflfaq.html#DEFLFAQ_028

34:26
The filter caps aren't bulging, it's just a plastic insulator on top (not found on other caps).

45:24
C144 2200uF is the value used by Sambers (not Semar) but you may well use the original 1000uF.
 
16:18
The longer lead (ground for screen and focus trimmers) could be bent and soldered to pin 5 (also ground) before installing the flyback on the chassis. One less pin to worry about when you try to get the flyback pins to align with the holes.

26:48
The original HOT for this chassis is BU508A (also AF or AFI). What you had there (2SC3688) and your replacement (J6920) are meant for high res monitors and a HOT rated higher may not be a good thing:

http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_deflfaq.html#DEFLFAQ_028

34:26
The filter caps aren't bulging, it's just a plastic insulator on top (not found on other caps).

45:24
C144 2200uF is the value used by Sambers (not Semar) but you may well use the original 1000uF.

I love this comment so much. Part 2 should be up this evening where I address a majority of this.

I ended up ordering a BU508A and installing it. Someone must have had the 2SC3688 in stock and threw it in there which resulted in me ordering the J6920. So from now on, research which HOT should be in there. I should know better honestly. Holy cow that is an awesome FAQ. I have never seen this. Thank you so much!

I think I ended up testing those filter caps and they were fine, but I still replaced them with the higher uf caps. See this is where I didn't trust the PO.

Thank you so much for watching and your insight. Every monitor I work on gives me a little more knowledge and I really do enjoy the work.
 
If you're worried about the chassis blowing HOTs I recommend you do a light bulb test before installing the HOT, i.e. you connect a 40-60W bulb to the pads where the HOT collector (center) and emitter (right) would go. If it lights up and voltage is correct (138VDC) then you know it won't blow the HOT.

Like this basically (this is a POLO 3 but the test works the same way):

attachment.php


And no, you don't need to put your hand on the anode cap.
 

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If you're worried about the chassis blowing HOTs I recommend you do a light bulb test before installing the HOT, i.e. you connect a 40-60W bulb to the pads where the HOT collector (center) and emitter (right) would go. If it lights up and voltage is correct (138VDC) then you know it won't blow the HOT.

Like this basically (this is a POLO 3 but the test works the same way):

attachment.php


And no, you don't need to put your hand on the anode cap.

You know I've always heard people talk about the light bulb test but I've never actually done it. This is super helpful also. I am going to put together a little HOT tester now. Thanks again!
 
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