the tests were not good, the two leads on tube did not have conductivity,no beeping, also the resistance across the two points had 1.8-2.8 @ 200 ohms (lowest setting on DDM) after doing it several times. I have not replaced c175 c170 D134 D135. Tried the old flyback and still hear a faint ticking. At what point do I check the B+ and should there be B+?
I said check the diodes for a crack in them I didn't said just replace them.
You talking about heater pin one side is ground the other is ac heater pin.
off the flyback at about 6.3 vs ac.
you need high voltage to get voltage there.
you don't need heater to get HV
it should read on the tube about 20 ohms across the heater tube pins only.
your dc is correct you have the same dc on the collector of the HOT
if you put your meter on it you'll see.
It takes dc and a drive pulse of about 900 v P~P
with no drive at the base you will have 130v on the collector.
when in shutdown the Horix-drive ic removes the pulse
all is left is the dc on the H.O.T collector.
Need to inspect the two diodes lift one end.
confirm they are not open or shorted.
before you order the P-caps.
they do not short they open under load.
I use a ringer to test a flyback its always correct
also the o-scope as I inspect the waveform.
If it doesn't just have a hole in it..
that's how I know if the fly is good or bad.
the H.o.t gets replace because all this crap makes the H.o.t run hotter and shorten
its life. you don't want to see this chassis again.
You jumper the trace to the cement resistor you don't reflow them,
see how dark the board is that's from poor connections to the high watt resitors
around the board which have the B+ on them as they go to the horizontal circuits
like the H.O.T and Horiz-drive transformer circuits.
once parts are replaced then confirm the traces are good to the fly and ceramic resistor
for a solid repair.
Forget about the heater pins.
get the parts replaced. use your ohm meter know what the ohms is between
traces not continuity you can get a test tone from the meter with a 10 ohm resistor
you need to see zero ohms not listen for a test tone.
The ceramic resistors can get poor connection if you touch them you may see
the trace lift, if all to much of hassle then send it out
you will get a warranty with it.
or just replace the chassis , with a rebuilt chassis and get'er done right!