Hantarex MTC-9110 degauss

byteflip

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Hey Team,

I've got a Hantarex MTC-9110 that I just finished recapping. The monitor fires up, but I'm noticing some color distortion on the top right and left edges of the screen. The degauss PTC is definitely shot and needs replacing. I understand I can use a degaussing wand or ring, but I am in the process of troubleshooting and restoring the cabinet to UMK3.

The original degauss part is a Philips PTC 2322.662.96011 (110/220v). The number on the pop-top/lid of mine is 96013 PH9027, but I can't track down a suitable replacement. I followed this thread where the OP swapped in a Sincera DGC3R14M / 950503:
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/solved-hantarex-mtc-900e-not-degaussing.461168/page-2

The problem is, the Sincera parts are ridiculously overpriced, and I feel like there has to be a more reasonable alternative.

So my question is—what's the best move from here? Stick with that substitute, hunt down an equivalent part, or is there a practical workaround? I have a Sharp Image chassis but it uses the two leg disc type thermistor.

Here's the service manual for reference:
https://archive.org/details/ArcadeGameManualMtc9110/page/n7/mode/2up

Philips PTC datasheet for reference:
https://vikiwat.com/userfiles/produ...c-model-96209-30-ohm-16x14x20-mm-3-pins-0.pdf

Thanks for any advice!
 
This is an Italian monitor that had a US version. It's important not to mix things up. The degaussing coil for the US has a much lower resistance than the European one (due to the different AC mains voltage), hence the need for different PTCs. The 96009 and 96011 PTCs are for the European version where the degaussing coil is in the 20-25 ohm range. The 96013 is for the US (also used on the US Polo), where the degaussing coil has a much lower resistence (you can measure it!). I would just get the PTC off a donor 25" TV. People should not only get the tube but also other bits including the degaussing coil and the PTC. Or just try your luck and find a PTC somewhere online that has the correct resistance for a US coil:

PTCphilips.JPGPTCphilips.JPG
 
Also, what's wrong with the old PTC? Does it rattle if you shake it? Unfortunately those Philips PTCs are of a low quality and the resistors often crumble:

PTC.jpg

If they're not FUBAR it's possible to restore them. This is a different brand used as an alternative on Hantarex chassis. The resistors can be wet sanded with very fine grit paper (1500, better if used before). Same for the metal contacts:

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Also, what's wrong with the old PTC? Does it rattle if you shake it? Unfortunately those Philips PTCs are of a low quality and the resistors often crumble:

View attachment 844283

If they're not FUBAR it's possible to restore them. This is a different brand used as an alternative on Hantarex chassis. The resistors can be wet sanded with very fine grit paper (1500, better if used before). Same for the metal contacts:

View attachment 844285
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M K L,

Thanks for the prompt response, once of the disc inside crumbled. It's very difficult to find these parts in the USA since CRTs are so rare. Looks like I will need to call the Arcade Repair Shops or email a bunch to see if anyone has a parts board to scavenge the component.

Thanks again,
Byteflip
 
Swapped in a good PTC, but the tube still had some weird colors. Managed to clean them up with a strong magnet. Now I'm noticing some flicker, mainly when bright orange is on the screen. (Seems like an issue with making colors brighter and then then they get dimmer, and repeats) Thought about making a video, but I doubt it would show up clearly. Maybe some of the components in the deguass circuit could be damaged.

I also removed the pin cushion board as I've seen another post that it's not needed in USA with 25" CRTs.
 
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