Hantarex 9110 issues (flyback?)

FMonk

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2001
Messages
11,387
Reaction score
107
I've got a 25" Hantarex 9110 that I can't seem to get adjusted correctly. The geometry looks good (or at any rate close enough for me :p), and none of the colors appears to be abnormally dark compared to the others. I did a cap kit, but I can't get the picture bright enough without either turning the screen up so high I get scan lines or the individual color controls up so high they start to bleed everywhere. The tube has some burn, so I was hoping to go with smoked glass/plexi, but there's no way that will happen with these brightness levels. I've got Area 51 in the cab, and the light guns need it to be relatively bright. They work now, but the picture is either way too dim or the colors are bleeding over everywhere making it really hard to see.

I have not yet changed the flyback, but am I correct in thinking that this should be the next step before a rejuvenation? The only problem with replacing the flyback is that the replacements for Hantarex monitors seem to be problematic from what I've read. As far as I can tell, none of the flybacks sold by the regular places will physically fit without me cutting the metal frame (which I can do, but I'd rather not have to), and they are of sketchy quality. Does anyone have a line on a good replacement flyback for a Hantarex 9000/9110? Or should I just skip replacing the flyback and find someone local with equipment for a rejuvenation?
 
If your image is there, stable, there's no point changing the EHT: it wont help your dim image.
Rejuvenating will help, if the heater will survive the threatment.
 
If your image is there, stable, there's no point changing the EHT: it wont help your dim image.
Rejuvenating will help, if the heater will survive the threatment.

Good to know, I'll ask around to find a local person who can do a rejuvenation.
 
Adjust the triple pot near the video input connector. Check the value of the brightness preset pot (near the flyback) and replace if out of spec, then readjust.
 
The triple pot works, but making it bright enough to look 'normal' causes all the colors to bleed. What is the brightness preset pot labeled on the board?
 
The 220k pot here (desolder it and measure out of circuit, value often gets lower with age):



As a last resort you could remove the heater resistor on the neckboard (not recommended normally but if the tube is on its last leg...):

 
Ok, that pot was definitely out of spec... Maximum value was under 80k for a 220k pot. Ordering a new one before I do anything else! Looking at the manual, it says carbon trimmer 220k horizontal pt10v, but nothing about the power rating. What I'm seeing in terms of parts are rated at 250 or 300V, but what about the power rating in mW? Would 500mW be acceptable? And does the element type matter for this application?
 
Last edited:
This fucking monitor... I swapped out the pot (it fit perfectly) and now I get nothing. No fan, no neck glow, nothing. This happened once before when I forgot to plug the tube ground wire into the neckboard, but everything is plugged in this time, I triple checked. All connections are keyed, so I'm pretty confident that I didn't plug something in backwards. I guess I'll be pulling it again to go over the solder closely. I have a new HOT, so I might as well replace that while I have it out again too...

I've been lucky to not really have any serious monitor issues (aside from screen burn) before this, I guess it had to happen eventually.
 
No matter what monitor you deal with, if you forget to plug the ground to the neckboard, you will kill the chassis.

That happened just after I had done the cap kit. After I plugged the ground in properly, it worked just as it had before and I spent a couple of hours trying to get the picture quality to look better, so it obviously didn't kill the chassis.

Edit: I should clarify, it wasn't that the tube wasn't grounded, I had plugged the ground into the main chassis PCB, not the neckboard. When I had it connected like that, I got nothing, no fan, no neck glow. When I realized what happened, I plugged it back into the neckboard and it worked fine (minus poor picture quality, which was the same as before), and I spent a good hour or two adjusting it trying to get a better picture. Now after swapping out the brightness preset and with everything plugged in properly, I get nothing. I will just have to sit down and go over everything with a fine-toothed comb and see if there are any bad connectors (and replace the HOT since I've got a new one).
 
Last edited:
Replaced the HOT and jumpered a bad solder pad and I have a picture again! Unfortunately, it's too damn hot to be out in my garage, so I'll have to wait to try and adjust everything (especially the brightness preset) until things cool off a little...
 
Replaced the HOT and jumpered a bad solder pad and I have a picture again! Unfortunately, it's too damn hot to be out in my garage, so I'll have to wait to try and adjust everything (especially the brightness preset) until things cool off a little...

you can work third shift on them...:D no worries about glare from the sun.
 
you can work third shift on them...:D no worries about glare from the sun.

That's basically what I did, but then the monitor and marquee drew in all the bugs :p

The good news is that the picture looks really good... except it's still too dark. I can crank up the screen control till there are scan lines so it'll play for now, but I'm definitely going to have to find someone local with a rejuvenator. Off to the local facebook group!

(also I need to get new sideart, a new CPO, some locks, and an Area 51/Max Force CF card combo setup to finish out this cab!)
 
Back
Top Bottom