Hanatrex Polo Question

dyno

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2009
Messages
1,644
Reaction score
81
Location
Lower Mainland, Britsh Columbia
I just picked up a free cabinet that has a dead 25" Hanatrex polo monitor, do these require a iso tranformer for the monitor? I have read that it doesn't need one and that it does, the cabinet does have a iso transformer in it. When I initially plugged it in it sounded like it powered up for a second but got no glow from the neck and it does nothing. I noticed that one of the 6k8 ohm resistor on the neck board was fried and shows open, looks like someone has tried to repair it before. The fuse on the chassis is good.
 
they don't require isolation transformers. the whole left side of the chassis is the power supply unit (under the cage, if yours still has the cage on it). I personally encourage using an iso though, if you have access to one.

a wide variety of things could be affecting yours. is it making a slight ticking sound when you have it turned on? that could be the result of a blown HOT or the flyback could be bad (inspect for cracks just for fun). the B+ could be out of tolerance cause it needs to be capped. these are actually kind of complicated to work on.

if you have monitor repair experience, you _might_ be able to fix it. otherwise, I would encourage sending it off to Chad at arcadecrt for repair, he'll at least be able to sort out that nightmare on the neckboard for you lol

I had a chassis that still had high voltage, but no heater glow. after messing with that for a couple days I finally noticed that underneath the flyback, the chassis had cracks in it and there were several broken traces. I would additionally inspect the white block resistors outside the heatsink that goes around the flyback. the solder joints on those typically lift up or outright break from the heat put off those resistors, so ensure you have continuity between the resistors and the next points in the circuits.
 
Thanks for the info about the iso. It does have one connected to it so I will leave it in, wasn't sure if having an iso connected would harm it any since it doesn't need one. It doesn't make a clicking sound, going to check for B+ today. I have worked on monitors before so I will give it a whirl and see if I can get it up and running. The person I got the cabinet from said the person he got it from said the power supply and monitor were fried, that he connected the wires wrong on the pwer supply but I don't think that would affect the monitor since it runs off the ac on the power supply. The power supply is dead, not getting any 5+, 5- or 12v so he did fry that. Going to remove the chassis today and check the board to see if there is any obvious signs of damage.
 
Measured the B+ and it was at 177v, so I am thinking that the high voltage section is being shutdown . Also on the bottom of the board there is a burnt area and it looks like there might be a component missing from there, I will take a picture and post.
 
Here are some pics, the one pic is where I think something is missing from and the burnt picture from the bottom is right above that. I am no expert at fixing these things but it looks like someone made a bad attempt to fix the chassis
 

Attachments

  • polo chassis 002.jpg
    polo chassis 002.jpg
    100 KB · Views: 23
  • polo chassis 003.jpg
    polo chassis 003.jpg
    99 KB · Views: 23
  • polo chassis 001.jpg
    polo chassis 001.jpg
    95.4 KB · Views: 20
If you send out that Polo to Chad make sure you package it VERY well. These things are so fragile it's unbelievable. He packaged it good and I had to keep sending it back cause the thing was freaking cracking everywhere! Sent it back 4 times to be exact. I still have my chassis in my basement and don't even know if it works. Pulled the burned tube and put in a new monitor. Most horrible experience I've had with this hobby was my freaking Polo.

BTW.. My chassis had dark burn marks exactly like yours on component and solder side...
 
Tried to do some troubleshooting tonight, soldering some cold solder joints and fixing loose solder joints. Didn't help, voltage still reading 178vdc at TP6. Since I am getting that voltage does that mean the flyback and HOT are good?
 
Looks like someone replaced the original orignal flyback with the wrong one, they used a HR 7101 and according to HR Diemens website the correct flyback is a HR 7191. What type of damage can occur from using the wrong flyback?
 
I'm not quite sure. Never done it before or had 1 with the wrong flyback. If you want I can check my polo's flyback to see what I have.
 
Back
Top Bottom