HanaHo Taito Multi - Ground issue? Menu beeps

arcadeaction

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On the main menu, with an original 20-1 card, I get a constant firing sound about twice a second without doing anything. I think it's the Space Invaders firing sound. At the top left of the screen there is an area of pixels that flash.

When I attempt to move through the game list to select a game, I need to move the joystick several times before it will move to the next game. I also don't hear the Space Invaders thump thump thump when moving from game to game.

I've tried the PCB on many different JAMMA cabs.

All games seem to work fine except for two player Nastar which is simultaneous and would use up and down for 2P.

Has anyone else had this issue? Or a fix?

Thanks
 
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The firing sound happens when you adjust the volume, which is done by pushing joystick 2 up/down. Are you able to adjust the volume? If you play a 2P game, do both joysticks work?

DogP
 
So maybe the 2p joystick is stuck on somehow (same result in three cabs).

When on the menu I attempted to move the 2p joystick up and down to adjust volume but it didn't seem to have an effect.
 
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Any thoughts?

I tried it in a fourth JAMMA cab in the event wiring may have not been standard but getting the same thing.

Thanks
 
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Hmm... IIRC there's somewhat of a test mode, if you have the test switch (or maybe the service switch) pressed while booting. I'd run through that and see if it shows any inputs being pressed when they're actually not... or if it finds any other problems.

I think it'd detect if the card was corrupt, but you could try making a new card with a fresh image (Matt's 20 game image with the updated menu graphics is nicer anyway). You could also try the 10 game and the SNK images to see if they act differently.

DogP
 
Thanks for the thoughts. Is there a specific size and brand of SD card you recommend that works?

I've attempted to run the other disk images, but they come up as unreadable. The 2GB SD cards I bought are actually 4GB when I view properties, and seems to have issues formatting to FAT16 which is what the HanaHo SD card is using. Maybe I'll need to buy a 1GB card which hopefully will be a correct accepted size.

This board used to work just fine in the original cabinet, so I'm not sure what has changed. At least all the gameplay remains great once a game is selected and if I have to live with it I suppose I can. Thankfully the sound level is at a good level currently as I'm unable to adjust that with the present issue. I'll check into if I can go into some type of setup menu.
 
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I'm pretty sure it doesn't support SDHC, so the card would need to be 2GB or less. Mine runs just fine off an old 1GB card I had laying around.

DogP
 
I've used a 2GB SD card. I believe it will read one formatted FAT32.

1) Just obtained a 1GB SD micro card put in an adapter and it worked immediately with your nice modified 20-1 image. Really is nice! Great job.

The issue I had with the menu constantly beeping remains but seems easier now to move through the menu and I now hear the selection noise as you scroll from game to game

2)Now accessing the PCB diagnostics, I can see the 2P up and down are always on for some reason. So on the menu the volume would be going up and down constantly. Thankfully I don't think any 2p Taito games need up or down.

Wonder how to switch them off. All diagnostic tests passed good. I disconnected the JAMMA harness to 2p up and down pins but they are still stuck on.
 

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Yep... that's basically what I expected. I don't have my board easily accessible, so I can't check at the moment... but I'm pretty sure the inputs are handled by the Xilinx CPLD (U8). It's possible that it has a couple dead inputs, bad solder joints, pieces of metal shorting pins, etc. It could also be a similar thing on the resistor and capacitor packs above it (RP1-RP6, C18-C23).

I'd take a multimeter and measure the resistance between 2P Up/Down to ground, vs 1P Up/Down to ground. And the same to +5V and 3.3V (metal tab of U11 voltage regulator, I believe)... not sure if the inputs are pulled up to +5V or 3.3V. Maybe one of those readings will give you a hint to what the problem is.

If the CPLD itself is bad, there's not much you can do, as it's a programmed part, and the programming file isn't available. Though it probably wouldn't be too hard to reverse engineer and recreate, if you have those kind of skills... it's probably basically just a shift register to read parallel inputs serially over SPI or something.

Oh, and if the CPLD has a weak short to GND on the pins, you may be able to short the pins high to basically disable the volume control. You'd want to cut the traces to the edge connector though, as pressing those buttons on the control panel with them shorted would short circuit the power to GND.

DogP
 
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