Hakko desoldering tips, what size?

cysnake

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I only have one tip that came with the gun, and its a little small for most things, what size tips are good to order? Im thinking I atleast need a big enough opening to do a flyback.
 
I ordered a 1.6mm to go with the one the tool came with, and that appears to be large enough to handle anything including those thick header pins.
 
I use a 1.0 for almost everything. Even big flyback pins I just heat them up with my soldering iron and then use the desoldering iron to pull the solder off.
 
What behrmr said. Except I use the Hakko itself. I'll just put the gun next to the pin, instead of on it. Heat, and suck.

I have larger tips, but I don't even bother anymore, as it takes too long to change them. All you need is the 1mm IMO, for normal arcade work.

Also, I get them on ebay for about $5 each, for a lot of 5. They may be knockoffs, but they come in Hakko packaging, and feel and work well, so even if they're fakes, they're good fakes. And they're a lot cheaper than the 'real' Hakko ones. (But then again, I have an 808, so YMMV if you have the FR-300).
 
Thanks guys! I went with the 1.6 and got a cleaning pin as well. Love this gun........:D
 
FYI, use the cleaning pin a lot. The more often the better. You want to ream it out BEFORE the oxides get a chance to build up.

However, eventually over time they will, even if you use the pin. Do yourself a favor and pick up an extra long (6" or 8") 1/16" drill bit on Amazon or ebay. I drill my barrel out once a month or so (though my gun gets daily use), as it gets clogged eventually.

Also, always drill it with the gun plugged in and hot, as doing it cold will very easily break the bit and not even god can get it out (ask me how I know). Then you need to replace the $50 heater assembly. I put the gun and drill flat on a table, and carefully drill out the barrel, going in a half inch, then pulling out, and repeating. You'll be amazed at how much crap comes out, and how much better it works after, once it's clean.

Also, buy extra ceramic filter inserts, as they get clogged with flux eventually too, and kill your suction.
 
It takes less than 30 seconds with the FR300


And that's 30 seconds I don't end up spending, lol.

Yeah, I know they made it easier on the FR-300 (and it's really not that hard on the 808). But it's really not needed, in my experience. Maybe if you were desoldering piles of them all day in China, but I do fine with the 1mm tip.
 
And that's 30 seconds I don't end up spending, lol.

Yeah, I know they made it easier on the FR-300 (and it's really not that hard on the 808). But it's really not needed, in my experience. Maybe if you were desoldering piles of them all day in China, but I do fine with the 1mm tip.

30 seconds to change it out to do 80-100 header pins and 6 bridge rectifiers in a WPC board or Bally power supplies is well worth the time.
 
What behrmr said. Except I use the Hakko itself. I'll just put the gun next to the pin, instead of on it. Heat, and suck.

I have larger tips, but I don't even bother anymore, as it takes too long to change them. All you need is the 1mm IMO, for normal arcade work.

Also, I get them on ebay for about $5 each, for a lot of 5. They may be knockoffs, but they come in Hakko packaging, and feel and work well, so even if they're fakes, they're good fakes. And they're a lot cheaper than the 'real' Hakko ones. (But then again, I have an 808, so YMMV if you have the FR-300).

Have a link for those?
 
thanks, what other stuff do i need for regular maintenance, just filters and drill bit to clean?


If you're planning to use it regularly, get a lot of filters. (You can also get them cheap on ebay).

Just use the pin after every use to keep the barrel clean, and use the drill bit when needed, once you can no longer get the pin in easily. (But the more you use the pin, the longer you'll go before needing the drill.)

Other than that, that's about it. You may need to do a complete teardown occasionally, to clean flux out of the flapper valves. But I do that once a year maybe on mine. Here's a good site with details on that:

http://stevekulpa.net/tools/hakko808-maint01.htm
 
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