Gt fore monitor issues

FrizzleFried

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I just picked up a GT Fore machine today. When I got it I was told the monitor was hooked up wrong as all he could get was NO SIGNAL...

I got it home and messed with it a bit and managed to get an image... sort of.

The image is all green and the top 1/3 of the image has lines through it. I can make out some SLIGHT colors (red barely, etc)...

I know the tube is good because when I use the on-screen adjustments the colors look good and the text looks good etc...

The monitor appears to be a WG D9200 I think it is... the image displays the same way whether the board is set to run at CGA or EGA modes.

Also, I had to increase the brightness substantially to get the image to show up as you see below.

Any suggestions on where to look?

FORE_MONITORISSUES1.jpg

FORE_MONITORISSUES2.jpg

FORE_MONITORISSUES3.jpg
 
Has this monitor been recapped? Judging by the picture you took it sure looks like it needs caps.

Also, it may need a new eeprom to store the settings.
 
Has this monitor been recapped? Judging by the picture you took it sure looks like it needs caps.

Also, it may need a new eeprom to store the settings.


Just got it... so no, it's not been capped. The previous owner "claims" it worked before a move. But you know how that is. Also, the game is only 5 years old and a home unit... do you really think there was enough time/useage to require a cap kit?

That said... of course I'll re-cap if necessary... I thought perhaps I just had it hooked up wrong or something so simply I missed it.
 
Wells used crap capacitors on that model. I think it was Foster at Vendor Amusements in Canada that had a bunch of 9200's with failing caps with the monitors just two months old!

it would be advisable to whip out the old ESR meter and check the caps.
 
Bob doesn't list a cap kit for a D9200...but he shows a D9400. Know of any place that carries the D9200 kit or will the 9400 work?
 
On the remote board, hold down the DOWN and SEL buttons at the same time to access the Factory Menu. go to the RE and hit SEL to do a memory recall. It will reset, then exit out to the main menu. Then adjust your colors, brightness, and contrast.

If that doesn't fix everything, do a cap kit (I think I posted a list here somewhere) and check the neckboard drive transistors for cold solder....
 
BTW - I have a D9200 document that used to be posted on IT's website for those who had problems with their GT's. I should put it on my website for others, since it's too big to attach here with the tiny 19kb file limit...
 
It appears I have two issues...

(1) The lines across the top 1/3 of the screen is one issue. It even breaks up the on screen menu... and when the monitor isn't connected to the boardset, the NO SIGNAL message has the top part broken up...

(2) The color issue appears to only apply to the PCB signal. The PCB images all stay very green with very very little red in there... no blue at all, but the on screen menu and the NO SIGNAL message have all their colors (blue, red, green)...

So I think I have the PCB hooked up wrong... AND there is something wrong with the monitor creating the lines across the top breaking up the image, etc.
 
It appears I have two issues...

(1) The lines across the top 1/3 of the screen is one issue. It even breaks up the on screen menu... and when the monitor isn't connected to the boardset, the NO SIGNAL message has the top part broken up...

This is probably cap related.

(2) The color issue appears to only apply to the PCB signal. The PCB images all stay very green with very very little red in there... no blue at all, but the on screen menu and the NO SIGNAL message have all their colors (blue, red, green)...

A corrupted memory can cause this, and can be reset following the instructions I posted above.

But it's also possible that the board has a bad video card. if you have another working JAMMA board handy, you can plug it into the harness to see if the picture looks the same or not...
 
my new ESR meter rocks. cant believe i lived without one for that long

all new to me monitors i hook up to my rejuvenator to check for shorts, etc.

let me know if you need any capacitors if you dont want to buy a whole kit. might be able to get away with just replacing a couple if your ESR meter tells you they are baaaad.

:)
 
Also, the game is only 5 years old and a home unit... do you really think there was enough time/useage to require a cap kit?

I agree with everyone else....start with a cap kit

I've seen a lot of dumbass home buyers leave their shit on 24/7.......at five years....that's almost 44,000 hours....way past the life expectancy of any cap.

Edward
 
There's no burn, so I doubt it was left on 24 hours. That said, I will be ordering some caps.

I also plan on taking my Taito multi board out of my Taito cab and testing to see if the monitor is the issue or the video card of the GT boardset (re: the green)
 
So what did you end up scoring that bad boy for? I have about 450 into my 2004 dedicated right now. I'll have close to 700 if I do the complete upgrade.
 
Wells D9200 service bulletin concerning lines/dim pix

This is the service bulletin that used to be on ITSGAMES website. I have transcribed it verbatim.

Symptoms:

1. The upper portion of the display shows retrace lines during active video display.

2. The upper portion of the display appears "Dim" and/or "Washed Out" when compared to the lower portion of the display.

3. The lower portion of the display shows retrace lines during active video display.

4. The lower portion of the display appears "Dim" and/or "Washed Out" when compared to the upper portion of the display.

The above symptoms appear randomly, often after the unit has been operating for a short amount of time. The symptoms may appear and disappear during normal operation.

Analysis:

The electrolytic capacitors in the vertical sweep circuitry have failed. Symptoms 1 and 2 are a result of capacitor C306 (2200 uf @ 25 volts) failing. Symptoms 3 and 4 are a result of capacitor C314 (2200 uf @ 16 volts) failing. Both capacitors are located adjacent to the vertical sweep transistor heat sink. The failure is a result of the electrolytic fluid inside the capacitor boiling and/or out gassing, causing the capacitance to decrease. This boiling and/or out gassing also results in a visual deformation of the capacitor case. The deformation is typically exhibited by a "Doming" of the top of the capacitor case.

Solution:

Remove capacitors C306, C308, and C314. Replace C306 and C314 with new capacitors (2200 uf @ 25 volts, 105 degrees temperature rating) and C308 (220 uf @ 50 volts, 105 degrees temperature rating).

My own analysis:

Wells-Gardner used absolute crap bottom-of-the-barrel capacitors which were barely good enough to even make a 90 day warranty period. Remove the junk electrolytic capacitors and install good brands like Nichicon.
 
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Thanks Ken! I'll definitely be either re-capping this bad boy or finding a replacement chassis (sometimes it's just easier to do that). Depends on cost.

I pulled my Taito multigame board (JAMMA) and plugged it in. Of course I instantly realized that the power from the ATX supply isn't going to work with the Taito board so out came my tester switcher supply and wired it all up. What I got was a NO SIGNAL screen...with intermittant flashes of the screen... in green as the Golden Tee was... which is good news as it indicates the problem is likely all monitor related... not video card related (which I dreaded having to delve in to).

Now, I'll likely pull the GT PCB and plug it in to a known working monitor to make sure, but it appears my problems are monitor chassis related.... at least to my semi-experienced eye... opinions?

Next question... does Wei-Ya or 8-liners or anyone make a replacement chassis for the D9200 tube?
 
So what did you end up scoring that bad boy for? I have about 450 into my 2004 dedicated right now. I'll have close to 700 if I do the complete upgrade.

I ended up paying $250 out the door. Probably a little high, but I really wanted a Fore... I love the older Golden Tees. Eventually I'll pick up a complete.
 
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