Ground up Berzerk restore

[Malice95]

So I ignored my kids for 45 mins and banged out another primer coat.
It went on nice and smooth with the sprayer
and fully covered the grain this time.

I hope to sand and shoot my first coat of black on Sunday. I'd like to
give the primer about 48 hours to fully dry.

 

[Malice95]

I got my two boardsets back from Seinologist. He did a great job cleaning
them up, socketing chips, adding an nvram solution for HSS (no more
batteries) and the pack job was amazing. His price was quite
reasonable. I have no doubt they will work well. A great experience.

Those of you who have a berzerk know what a wiring mess they are.
I spent a couple hours tonight putting the boardset back on the slide
out board and double checking all the wire connections. Thankfully I
took plenty of pictures before unhooking it. I have Mark's Frenzy/Brezerk
ZPU but I decided to put the original one in for now. If everything works
well I'll swap the ZPU out down the road.

I need to read the manual tonight to make sure all the dip switches
are correct.

I planned on getting a 1st coat of color on the cabinet last monday
but I rushed sanding the primer.. I hit a spot that wasnt 100% bone dry
and the primer kinda smeared like a crayon under the orbital sander (150 grit)
so I needed to do some touch up work. I let the cab dry all week this
time. I'll give it a quick sanding in a few minutes and shoot for putting a
coat of semi gloss black on it tomorow.

 

[Malice95]

First coat of color

Well I applied my first coat of color. I wanted to get a new gun because my
old one was all clogged up.. so I decided on the purple HVLP from HF.
Previously I used the non hvlp version of that gun.

Well the back turned out nice for a 1st coat.. no runs decent coverage.

The cab was a different story. I had to much paint coming out of the gun
and I got runs. A lot of runs. I thinned 25% with mineral spirits which worked
well. but just to much paint. So I'll have to wait until this coat fully dries
and give it another sanding and shoot it again.

Next time I'll turn the paint knob WAY down!

 

[joeycuda]

What paint are you using? Sorry if I missed it in the thread. When I used RustOleum quart can oil-based and thinned it - that can states up to 15 or 20% thinned with acetone. I've mixed it close to that 20% with 80% paint and it flowed very well. Aside from gun settings, which were probably off (and I doubt I'll master), I think you had the paint way too thin. It should be about the consistency of milk.

The runs and the thinness of that coat, showing grain, looks like it went on thin as water.

Good luck. Figuring this stuff out is half of the work, I've found.

 

[Malice95]

Yes I am using rustolem oil based semi gloss.

Yea you're right.. to thin and the gun settings were off, Good news is with a little sanding.. I can try again till I get it right

 

[joeycuda]

Yes I am using rustolem oil based semi gloss.

Yea you're right.. to thin and the gun settings were off, Good news is with a little sanding.. I can try again till I get it right

Not saying you can't use mineral spirits, as I have no idea, but doesn't the can/directions recommend acetone?

 

[Malice95]

Not saying you can't use mineral spirits, as I have no idea, but doesn't the can/directions recommend acetone?

Yes the can says acetone, but I read somewhere that mineral spirits is actually a better choice but something about the EPA not wanting people spraying it is why they recommend acetone. Supposedly Naptha is also a
good choice as it flashes very quickly.

Mike

 

[joeycuda]

Yes the can says acetone, but I read somewhere that mineral spirits is actually a better choice but something about the EPA not wanting people spraying it is why they recommend acetone. Supposedly Naptha is also a
good choice as it flashes very quickly.

Mike

I figure there are multiple solvents that work, and wouldn't be surprised if what they recommend isn't best. Acetone is all I tried though and it did work. Maybe just try 15% mineral spirits and see how well that sprays? Good luck.

 

[retroACTIVE]

I don't spray so this bit of info is probably worthless to you... but I've experimented with every thinner you can buy off the shelf of Home Depot and acetone is the most compatible with rustoleum. It does not disrupt the finish at all. Mineral spirits, paint thinner, flotrol etc... all work but you have to be very careful with your ratios or the finish just wont look right ... however with the acetone, even if you over thin it, the finish is not harmed.

Just my 2 cents ;-)

 

[Malice95]

Okay I'll take everyones advice and try acetone. Hell its not like mineral
spirits helped I'll try to fire up another coat tomorrow. Hopefully it will be
dry enough to sand.

 

[Malice95]

MUCH better!

So today I sanded down the runs and gave the rest of the cab a quick hit
with 220 grit. I turned down the paint volume knob a LOT and thined about10% with acetone.

I am quite happy how it turned out. The paint is still a bit wet in these
ictures so the sheen is uneven in spots but it went on really smooth, no runs.
I'll probably let it dry for a week and see how it looks before deciding on a third coat or not.

 

[joeycuda]

You're going to use gloss RustOleum cans for the stenciled colors? Are there available colors that are a close match to the original colors?

While mine is far from mint, the sides aren't in bad enough shape to warrant a strip and repaint. There's some chipping at the bottom from Stern's brilliant 3/4" strips and furniture glides method, but not too bad. I am certain I'll repaint the front/inner/top/back though. I don't know that I'll even try to imitate the garbage in the finish texture on the front.

 

[Malice95]

I believe retroactive used spray paint on his.. I'll probably go that route.
The colors will be close enough for horseshoes and hand granades.

Retro? What print colors did you use for the stencil?

 

[retroACTIVE]

I believe retroactive used spray paint on his.. I'll probably go that route.
The colors will be close enough for horseshoes and hand granades.

Retro? What print colors did you use for the stencil?

Sail Blue and Sunrise Red

 

[Malice95]

Sail Blue and Sunrise Red

So before you hit the cab with the colors with the stencil on.. did you
rough up the stencil area with sandpaper? I have to think stenciling
over a black cab is gonna take quite a few coats of spray paint.

 

[retroACTIVE]

So before you hit the cab with the colors with the stencil on.. did you
rough up the stencil area with sandpaper? I have to think stenciling
over a black cab is gonna take quite a few coats of spray paint.

No its not necessary and probably a risky move. You don't want to be sanding in the stenciled area. You risk damage to the stencil and it is likely the particles would end up collecting around the edge of the mask.

Spray it lightly once... give it about 15 min... then hit it again. You will be surprised how well it covers. Once you remove the mask you will be blown away... even if it doesn't look 100% covered. Factory stencils were not heavily painted either.

It will look awesome.

 

[OldTymeToys]

Nice job so far! You've progessed much further than me on my Multi Williams restore and I think we started the thread one the same day. Cracked me up with the "ignored my kids for 45 minutes" comment! I did just the same thing yesterday to get some work done on my restore!

Keep up the good work!

 

[Malice95]

So I gave it a week to dry.. I was to busy to do anything on it anyway
so I ignored it. Turned out really nice, but it still had a slight texture
so I decided to sand it with 400 grit to knock down the texture. Nice and
smooth now. I didnt bother taking pictures.

If the weather holds out tomorrow (rain coming) I'll shoot a final
coat of color.

 

[Malice95]

Final coat!

Well I put my final coat of paint on with the gun today.. turned out really
nice IMHO. I plan on getting the stencils on next weekend. I want to give it
plenty of time to harden to make sure nothing pulls off when removing the
stencil.

 

[CHALLENGER]

Coming along quite nicely.