Gottlieb System One outhole kicker wiring

driph

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Hey all, on the tail end of my Count-Down restoration, and I've finally got everything up and running except for the ball return kicker... I have a feeling that it wasn't wired up correctly before I got it, can any of ya do me a favor and take a picture of the underside of a system one game where the outhole coil is wired so I can verify it?

Thanks!
 
I don't own this machine, but maybe I can offer some advice. You should have two wires that go this coil. With both wires disconnected from the coil, you should be able to get a voltage reading off of one of them. Using a meter, connect your black test lead to ground, and the red to one of the two wires. You should get a reading of around 30 VDC. (I don't remember for sure what the solenoid voltage is, but it is around that) Once you figure out what wire has the voltage, that wire gets attached to the coil with banded side of the diode. The other wire that does not carry the voltage, goes to the non banded side of the diode. If this is how it is hooked up, then check the following:
Fuse for kicker
Connectors on PCB's
diode on coil
transistor on driver board.

-Mark
 
I don't own this machine, but maybe I can offer some advice. You should have two wires that go this coil. With both wires disconnected from the coil, you should be able to get a voltage reading off of one of them. Using a meter, connect your black test lead to ground, and the red to one of the two wires. You should get a reading of around 30 VDC. (I don't remember for sure what the solenoid voltage is, but it is around that) Once you figure out what wire has the voltage, that wire gets attached to the coil with banded side of the diode. The other wire that does not carry the voltage, goes to the non banded side of the diode. If this is how it is hooked up, then check the following:
Fuse for kicker
Connectors on PCB's
diode on coil
transistor on driver board.

-Mark

Good advice but a little confusing. Both wires will be "carrying voltage". You're talking about the positive side of the circuit where it attaches to the coil. You want the banded side of the diode to the positive side so it does NOT conduct when the coil is energized. Just to clarify :)

You may also have more than 2 wires going to any given coil. In fact you will unless it's the last coil in the daisy chain of power.
 
Thanks tec9, I'll check that out to make sure there's nothing funky upstream.

Tested resistance last night, and it's super low on that coil. After unsoldering the wires, still low, so according to Clay's guide, it's either the diode or coil. Since I've gotta order a new bumper cap anyway, I'll pick one up.

(I've referenced the pinrepair guide so much since I start rebuilding this thing, it's invaluable. I need to run down to kinkos and get it printed and bound one of these nights)


Good advice but a little confusing. Both wires will be "carrying voltage". You're talking about the positive side of the circuit where it attaches to the coil. You want the banded side of the diode to the positive side so it does NOT conduct when the coil is energized. Just to clarify :)

You may also have more than 2 wires going to any given coil. In fact you will unless it's the last coil in the daisy chain of power.

Yeah, the non-banded side post has 3-4 color striped wires soldered in, while none of the other coils have more than one per post (and usually a green ground on the non-banded), so it's good to hear that.
 
Hmm, I don't recall the exact reading, but it was well under 2 ohms.

That's lower than I would expect. Especially on that coil. A flipper maybe but that's still low. Is it burnt or melted at all?

You might find that you've blown a fuse or driver transistor with a shorted coil like that.
 
Tested the Q32 transistor last night, .6 on one leg, .24 on the other. From what I read, the .24 is too low, but that reading seems to match a couple of other transistors that seem to be working okay.... still, if I'm gonna replace the coil & diode, might as well swap out the transistor too, right?

Action shots:

Haven't found mention of black/red in the manual, but I'm assuming that's a ground, since it's on the non-banded side? Purple/Red (or maybe it was originally Blue/Red, since outhole is supposed to be solenoid1) is bundled up (three wires, all same color scheme) and connected to the other lug.

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Wire nuts under a playfield...never a good sign.

Heh... they're the sort of discovery that makes these projects exciting. I'm guessing that the wires were swapped at one time, and since this is the only coil on the entire machine that doesn't work, there's probably a relation there.

I hacked in a replacement leaf to replace a broken one on the bumper, and one of the GI lamps lines looks to have been bridged, but aside from that and the outhole wiring, everything else appears to be stock.
 
Quick update.

Yeah, coil was wired backwards, looks like the red/purp bundle is ground (I would've assuming the opposite, too).

Ordered new coil, diode, a handful of transistors, and while I'm at it I'm gonna do the system one ground mods, relocate the battery, and replace the caps in the power supply.
 
POW!

Next is checking to see if I screwed up and bridged something when I replaced the row of transistors, or if there's a short somewhere. At least the power supply rebuild went ok.

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Wired a coil backwards? Let's hope you didn't fry your NiWumph chips. That board is not bulletproof like the Pi-1 is.

Parts are all bone stock (aside from new transistors, and power supply full cap replacement), so I'm not incredibly worried, but hopefully I can get it up and running without killing anything.

Do you have a Pi-1? Looks like a slick board, may look into it for a Ni-Wumph depending on what kinda shape the stock boards are in.
 
Parts are all bone stock (aside from new transistors, and power supply full cap replacement), so I'm not incredibly worried, but hopefully I can get it up and running without killing anything.

Do you have a Pi-1? Looks like a slick board, may look into it for a Ni-Wumph depending on what kinda shape the stock boards are in.

If you're going to get a board from Pascal the Pi-4 is the one to get (IMO).
 
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