Gottlieb MA-1133 system 80b board repair

DrewZ

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Donor 3 years: 2023-2025
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Greetings,

Looking for anyone that repairs or can source this board. Machine is a Bonebusters Inc Pin. Sat in a warm condo for 6 months after the Hurricane and now will not boot. Any help is appreciated.

IMG_2112.jpeg
 
Chris Hibler, Clive at Coin Op Cauldron, and John Robertson of Johns Jukes are all great techs who work on Gottliebs
 
If you are good at soldering this repair work can be done on your own. And save you about $250. The first thing to do is remove that battery. It looks to be an early replacement but still NiCad or Nimh which will leak alkaline and damage components, sockets and eat traces up. Your clock appears to have some green fuzz already happening. Which is alkaline corrosion. From the pic its hard to tell how significant the damage may be. You can take close ups and we can advise further. Once you remove all damaged components you will want to sand down damaged area to copper. Then use distilled white vinegar to bath the effected area. Scrubbing with a hard bristle brush. Clean with water then alcohol and dry completely. Once dry you need to seal the areas you sanded to copper. This can be done by conformal coat, clear coat, nail polish, exc. Everybody has there own BEST way of doing it. Then you're ready to install the new components. You will want to use a fiberglass eraser to expose any solder pads that were sealed, otherwise you will heat up the trace and get poor soldering results.

WARNING: Alkaline damaged boards and components do not take or remove solder the same as a good condition board. They have significant tarnish, buildup that prevents them from conducting heat. Especially through holes. Lifted pads are also much more common on damaged boards. Prep the solder joints with a fiber glass eraser before desoldering. Add new solder. Clip the body off any component that is being trashed and remove each lead individually with tweezers while heating with iron. A panavise or similar work station really help with this allowing the board to be securely on its side giving access to parts and solder side. This is an art form. The more you do it the better you get.

Gottlieb System 80B cpu have quite a few components typically in the danger zone. The dip switch bank, two 7400 IC's at Z2 and Z3, signal diodes, resistors, power cap, clock, transistors exc. all are common failures. You can mod the entire reset section of the board with a modern reset generator (Dallas Maxim 1811) which will save a lot of time and keep parts to a minimum. The daughter card is a high failure component as well causing failure to boot, resets, and locked on coils. Reproductions are available but you may have to wait for them to be built as they are not always in stock - (Pinitech Piggy Deux). You may find several second hand older reproductions no longer being made as well. All will work and are more dependable then the original two sided solder daughter cards. You can remove the connector on TC1 going to your reset board as that is not needed for home use. You can in fact remove TC1 all together with a simple jumper mod installed. Battery can be replaced with NVRAM, memory cap, remote battery holder or button cell.

All the info needed is here - https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80

Last but not least are the reproduction MPU boards. Look them up, email the companies, research previous owner reviews on forums, exc. In my experience documentation is poor, communication is lacking, repairs are harder. And the overall working dependability depends on who you ask. Some love them and many supposedly knowledgeable individuals with years of experience say they are pieces of shit. I'll use @VectorCollector moto here "YMMV".
 
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