Got them WG6100 blues

ieure

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Spent a few hours of quality time with my Tempest monitor today. I applied most, but not all, of the Bob Roberts standard cap kit. New caps on the neck & HV boards, chassis transistors, and resistors. I avoided some areas that looked like trouble. Some real top notch work done to this monitor, which has a number of burnt traces which were repaired with globs of solder or clipped off component legs. Cleaned up some of the sloppy work. Replaced F100/F101/F700. The mounts for Q605 & Q606 had one broken wire each. The red wire from the HV molex to the neck board was broken. I resoldered it all.

Original symptoms:
  • F100/F101/F700 blown. (Replaced)
  • R101 on deflection board smoked. (Tested okay, but replaced)
  • Chassis transistors shorted.

I fired it up expecting a picture after all the work, but I've got nothing.

New symptoms:
  • Neck glow
  • Spot killer off
  • No picture

The fuses are all okay. Poked around and saw that the patch to Q606 had come off, but that would kill at most 1/2 of the picture, and I've got nothing.

What now?
 
Spot killer would be on if that were the case.

Do you have deflection chatter ?

Sounds like something in the HV cage.

Did you turn up the brightness ?

Do you see a red LED lit up in the HV cage ?

Does your HV cage have 2 adjustment pots in it or 1
 
are you sure the board works? could be the output of the game pcb.

Yes, I tested it in another cab.


Spot killer would be on if that were the case.

Do you have deflection chatter ?

Sounds like something in the HV cage.

Did you turn up the brightness ?

Do you see a red LED lit up in the HV cage ?

Does your HV cage have 2 adjustment pots in it or 1

This being my first vector repair, I'm not sure what deflection chatter sounds like, so I'm not sure. I have two pots on the HV, "SCREEN" and "FOCUS." I understand that SCREEN is the brightness; I turned it all the way round and did not get anything on the screen. No LEDs on the HV or deflection board — The one on the HV board is a power indicator?
 
You should hear kind of a fast clicking sound, almost like a motor with a bad bearing. Thats the XY deflection coils running. If thats missing its a power supply issue.
 
You should hear kind of a fast clicking sound, almost like a motor with a bad bearing. Thats the XY deflection coils running. If thats missing its a power supply issue.

Okay, I'll compare with my Asteroids monitor before I pull it apart to recap and break it, too.
 
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Guessing that this has a lot to do with the problem. This is on the connector that goes from the HV cage to the anode & neck board.

Looks like the pin just crimps on, but I have no idea how to get it out and re-crimp.
 

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You use a .084 pin extraction tool. Guessing that you don't have one of those, maybe you should reach out to the PAC group.
 
Usually connectors will have a small keyed area where you can push it in with a tiny eyeglass flat screwdriver. This will release the metal inside and allow you to remove it. The key area is nothing more than a bent piece of the metal tube you are removing. The extraction tool in the post above is the quick and easy way to get it out. Good to own if you plan on doing lots of wiring.
 
attachment.php


Guessing that this has a lot to do with the problem. This is on the connector that goes from the HV cage to the anode & neck board.

Looks like the pin just crimps on, but I have no idea how to get it out and re-crimp.
i had the same problem on my space duel cut off both connectors and get some of these works perfectly
ymfsolderless.jpg
 
Yes, but it would need to insulated with a few layers of heatshrink afterwards

The 2 wires are
Focus: Up to 4000V
Brightness: up to 800V
i didnt i just hooked them up and wrapped them in black electrical tape
 
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