Got a Rejuvenator, Finally. Need to Make Some Adapters.

Scucci

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Got a Rejuvenator, Finally. Need to Make Some Adapters.

I finally bought a rejuvenator for myself so I don't have to borrow anything anymore. I got BK 470 for $45, decent deal I guess. But it doesn't have any adapters that will work on arcade monitors... so I have to build them myself.

I was wondering though, and I don't think I've ever gotten a solid answer on it... but what adapter will fit a 13" G07-FBO? The #23 has fit and worked on all my other monitors, but I guess the FBO has a different pinout than the CBO (19")? IIRC, the pins line up, but they're internally different?

I want to start working on putting some adapters together while I wait for the rejuve to get here.
 
Here's my "cheat sheet"......

CR31 = some WG K7000/WG13K4800
CR30 = Matsushita 19"ers
CR28 = 13" G07-FBO
CR6 = every 19" black & white I've ever worked on
CR24 = Hantarex 25" MTC 9110
CR25 = WG13K4700/Nanao MC-2000S/all the 19" Toei's I've worked on
CR3 = I had a oddball NEC brand in a Cosmic Avenger

Edward
 
I have sockets, molex blocks and terminal pins to build CR23 and CR31 adapters, if you need them. PM me if you want me to build some for ya.
 
I have sockets, molex blocks and terminal pins to build CR23 and CR31 adapters, if you need them. PM me if you want me to build some for ya.

I have a pretty decent selection of sockets and pins here, so I might just luck out and have something usable... I'll have to round them all up and double check.

Instead of using a spare neckboard (which I have none of) is there any way to use single sockets and have them laid out on something in the pattern needed for the guns? If I have to get some PCB's made or something, that's fine with me since I can get 10 of them for $10 in the size needed to do something like that.
 
I have a pretty decent selection of sockets and pins here, so I might just luck out and have something usable... I'll have to round them all up and double check.

Instead of using a spare neckboard (which I have none of) is there any way to use single sockets and have them laid out on something in the pattern needed for the guns? If I have to get some PCB's made or something, that's fine with me since I can get 10 of them for $10 in the size needed to do something like that.
]

If you're talking about making a universal style adapter, it's possible, but not very practical. To be honest with you, you're really only going to ever need about 3 or 4 adapters total for this machine, with 90% of your work being done with the CR23 (10 pin) and CR31 (8 pin) adapters.

I considered making my own universal adapter too, but in the end it wound up being less work to make specific adapters that you know are connected to the right pins every time. Less chance for error.
 
]

If you're talking about making a universal style adapter, it's possible, but not very practical. To be honest with you, you're really only going to ever need about 3 or 4 adapters total for this machine, with 90% of your work being done with the CR23 (10 pin) and CR31 (8 pin) adapters.

I considered making my own universal adapter too, but in the end it wound up being less work to make specific adapters that you know are connected to the right pins every time. Less chance for error.

I just double checked and the sockets are still readily available, even on eBay, for a few bucks a piece. That's probably going to be the easiest way to go. As best I can tell, they list them as the number of pins in the ring, MINUS the one on the key (focus?). I have a spare 4900 chassis here and I'm comparing the connector in it to what I'm seeing in their store and it matches up, more or less... going to have to break out the digi.micrometer... but I have 10 pins on it (including the one on the key) and they have 10 pins on theirs, but they only list it at 9 pins. ... make any sense?

ux_a11112300ux0008_ux_c.jpg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GZS10-2-108-TV-Monitors-Replacement-9-Pin-PCB-Mount-CRT-Socket-/230769035440

That one is just an example, before I buy anything I'll double check to make sure everything lines up (as the key on that one doesn't look 100% like the key on the 4900 socket)
 
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Yep, that makes sense. Just make sure the socket you buy has the correct size keyway for the key pin. Example - CR30 and CR23 are very similar sockets, the only real difference is the size of the keyway slot.
 
FYI, if you're gonna roll your own on these, here's some key parts you'll need to have:

(DigiKey part numbers)

WM1237-ND
CONN RECEPTACLE 12POS .062 $0.49

03-06-1122.jpg


WM1001-ND CONN TERM FEMALE 18-24AWG TIN $0.075 $7.53

02-06-1103.jpg


WM9902-ND TOOL EXTRACTOR HT-2285 .062 $15.54 ea.

W-HT-2285.jpg


I assume you already have a crimper that can handle these pins and can crimp them correctly.
 
That's a bit too much for a tool I'll only use once or twice and can do the job without it... but I did add the connectors and pins to my shopping cart at Newark.

Still waiting to hear back about my 19V2000 before I submit the order, but I'll make sure I get enough connectors and pins to keep me covered for a while. ... I think I already have a few of those connectors here from when I ordered the wrong parts for my Dragon's Lair, but I really don't feel like screwing with it right now and it's only a couple of bucks.

The rejuve has a manual and all that jazz, so I'll wait till that gets here (because I hate looking through PDF files) and start collecting up CRT sockets.
 
Well, the rejuve showed up today. The guy said it came with a #20 adapter, and it did... but (and this seems to be common...) they didn't know about the adapters behind the panel on the lid.

I didn't really get anything usable for me, but it also came with a #1, #3, #4, #5, and#9. So... yay that. When I saw white poking out behind that panel I was REALLY hoping to at least see something usable on any of my machine. But, hey... I still got more than I thought I was paying for.

I guess I'm just going to have to give up on hearing back about that 19V2000... simple question, no answers in a couple of days... screw it.

I've tested the thing as much as I can, I can set the heater and G1 voltages... that's all I can really test right now.
 
I wanted to order this for something else as well. Am I reading this right that the pins are .24 cents each!!! or around 10cents in quantity!!? These should be at least a few for a penny.
 
I wanted to order this for something else as well. Am I reading this right that the pins are .24 cents each!!! or around 10cents in quantity!!? These should be at least a few for a penny.

Yes, for small quantities, the pins are .24 each. That's why I'd recommend a bag of 100 at least. Keep in mind each connector will take 12 pins, so after 3 or 4 adapters, you'll use up half the pins pretty quickly. Not to mention you'll fuck up some crimps too, so that usually kills a few pins.

Get em in a bag of 100, and they're only .07 each.

Well, the rejuve showed up today. The guy said it came with a #20 adapter, and it did... but (and this seems to be common...) they didn't know about the adapters behind the panel on the lid.

I didn't really get anything usable for me, but it also came with a #1, #3, #4, #5, and#9. So... yay that. When I saw white poking out behind that panel I was REALLY hoping to at least see something usable on any of my machine. But, hey... I still got more than I thought I was paying for.

See, now, if you had the pin extractor tool, you could de-pin all those adapters you don't need, and re-use the molex blocks. At nearly $1.00 a piece, they add up quick.
 
.07 c is still way overpriced in my opinion.

Spades and female quick connects are also expensive but I did find a place to order quality ones for less than .01c each. I assume with enough looking I would hope to find many for a penny or so. Do you think so?

I will be saving the blocks from now on. Good idea.
 
See, now, if you had the pin extractor tool, you could de-pin all those adapters you don't need, and re-use the molex blocks. At nearly $1.00 a piece, they add up quick.

I'd have to have 40+ of the adapters for that extractor to be worth it. ;)

The connectors are only $0.30 at Newark. So, I'll just get a handful of them, a crap ton of pins, and the CRT sockets to just make a few of them up. :D

Thank you, though, the part numbers really helped out. I have the WORST luck with molex connectors. Every time I order a connector, I have to re-order the correct connector because the ones I get the first time are always wrong.
 
.07 c is still way overpriced in my opinion.

Spades and female quick connects are also expensive but I did find a place to order quality ones for less than .01c each. I assume with enough looking I would hope to find many for a penny or so. Do you think so?

I will be saving the blocks from now on. Good idea.


Meh. How many are you going to need in your life? 50? 100? Less than $10 either way. I'd rather not spend hours trying to find a cheaper source so I can spend three fitty instead of seven.

But if you wanna look, knock yourself out :D
 
Well, the rejuve showed up today. The guy said it came with a #20 adapter, and it did... but (and this seems to be common...) they didn't know about the adapters behind the panel on the lid.

I didn't really get anything usable for me, but it also came with a #1, #3, #4, #5, and#9. So... yay that. When I saw white poking out behind that panel I was REALLY hoping to at least see something usable on any of my machine. But, hey... I still got more than I thought I was paying for.

I guess I'm just going to have to give up on hearing back about that 19V2000... simple question, no answers in a couple of days... screw it.

I've tested the thing as much as I can, I can set the heater and G1 voltages... that's all I can really test right now.

I'd buy the #3 from you (depending on how much $$$:D).
What's going on with your V2000?

Edward
 
I'd buy the #3 from you (depending on how much $$$:D).
What's going on with your V2000?

Edward

I'll have to check the #3 against the goofy monitor I have in my Route16 first.

I'll just repost it here... my thread, I get to derail it if I wanna.:D

I was working on my Battlezone monitor a few days ago and I was replacing a set of 3716 and 3792.

Since I had finally had the right parts I decided to replace the TIP42 that I had in place of a U07 (mounted it at the top of the heatsink then ran wires down to correct the pinout). While I was at it I replaced all the old sinked transistors in the V and H deflection circuits. I wasn't paying attention and I was in the hurry to get it back in the cabinet and get it tested because I had some other stuff to take care of... anywho, I swapped the NPN and PNP transistors (U07 and U57) that I had just put in and when I went to test the monitor it went off like a damned roman candle... I fried 4 resistors in the V. Deflection circuit and a 3904 transistor as well... and bombed out those brand new 3716 and 3792 I just put in... le sigh.

I've replaced everything that was obviously bad (the resistors and the 3904, I checked all the other transistors and they're testing good as are the diodes) and I'm ordering in another set of 3716 and 3792s (I'm just going to call them the cans because I'm tired of typing out the numbers).

I still have something that's throwing me off though... without the cans installed, the spot killer still comes on. When I turn the brightness up I can see the line down the middle of the screen... but shouldn't I be able to see that line, at normal brightness, even without the cans put in?

If that's normal, just let me know... if not, then any ideas as to what I should be tossing the shopping cart while I'm ordering parts? (besides more patience and the ability to read a letter and 2 numbers off a part before I put the voltage to it)
Basically just wonder if there could be anything else wrong with the circuit or if getting the spot killer with those 2 cans for the Y missing is normal.
 
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Basically just wonder if there could be anything else wrong with the circuit or if getting the spot killer with those 2 cans for the Y missing is normal.

While I've never tried it......what you're describing sounds (potentially) normal to me.

Edward
 
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