Gorilla Hair, Kitty Hair or Just Straight Bondo?

Thomas

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I really had to dig into the bottom of my Stargate cab to get rid of all the chipped up plywood. She is really smooth now on the outside sides at the bottom. I haven't finished the inside side at the bottom yet but looks like she wont get caught on the carpet no more and snag up. (Cool) My question is related to whats best to use. Should I just use regular bondo or should I go with some sort of hair?

Also the front of my Stargate is made of particle board. I have it nice and smooth on the front but have not made it that far on the back side of the front on the bottom of the cab. It is kinda soft all along the front. I was thinking about laying some 18-08 or just chop strand with resin over it so it would be nice and strong. It was really swelled up and I am not sure how to make that area strong again with out cutting it out and replaceing with new board. Which I am not going to do on my first restore.

Any ideas on how to make that stuff hard again? I remember somebody saying just use wood glue. How would that do any good if its soft like that and no way really to get glue between the layers. It's not a bad idea just wondering if there is some way better?

I also had to dig out a few edges around the cab where the t moulding goes. I guess the best way to get this back flush is with masking tape on the edge and then back fill to the tape to restore the edge?

Any other takes on these issues guys?
 
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One of the things I have done when the bottom edge is chewed up pretty bad is to get some angle aluminum (the 'L' shaped kind) paint it black (Rustoleum textured) and bolt it to the sides using the same 1/4" carriage bolts that are used on the rest of the WIlliams cabs (I also spray the bolt heads with the same Rustoleum). That way the edges are supported and protected from further damage. I will typically fill in any major gouges/missing chunck with bondo first. The advantage of this is that you don't need to make the edges perfect, becuase they will be covered by the angle aluminum.

I have also heard of people using 3/4" aluminun channel (shaped like a square 'U') to do the same thing. In that case, you need to screw it in on the bottom and countersink the screws to keep them from snagging on things.

You can get the angle aluminum or channel at Home Depot. It may take a little looking. FOr some reason it is in different place in every Home Depot I've been in lately.

Here is a pic showing what I did to a Moon Patrol with water damage on one side:

picture.php


ken
 
That's a good idea, especially with the particlebaord the OP is talking about. No matter what goop you fix it with, it's only as strong as what it is bonded to, and with disintegrating particle board that ain't much.
 
One of the things I have done when the bottom edge is chewed up pretty bad is to get some angle aluminum (the 'L' shaped kind) paint it black (Rustoleum textured) and bolt it to the sides using the same 1/4" carriage bolts that are used on the rest of the WIlliams cabs (I also spray the bolt heads with the same Rustoleum). That way the edges are supported and protected from further damage. I will typically fill in any major gouges/missing chunck with bondo first. The advantage of this is that you don't need to make the edges perfect, becuase they will be covered by the angle aluminum.

I have also heard of people using 3/4" aluminun channel (shaped like a square 'U') to do the same thing. In that case, you need to screw it in on the bottom and countersink the screws to keep them from snagging on things.

You can get the angle aluminum or channel at Home Depot. It may take a little looking. FOr some reason it is in different place in every Home Depot I've been in lately.

Here is a pic showing what I did to a Moon Patrol with water damage on one side:

picture.php


ken


Yep that looks pretty nice. I might just do this. Does it come in eight or ten foot sections? The application this would be intended for in the real word would be? I could be in H/d for days looking for that!

Thanks Ken!
 
Short strand is good for replacing missing chunks and filling drilled holes. For dents and scratches just use a lightweight filler. Paint brush on a coat of polyester resin to the bottom of the cab will waterproof the bottom.
You should see the project im working on now. Im doing the body filler work on my galaga that I replaced the bottom 16" on.
 
I used the same idea as YellowDog on my Multi-Williams project, but used this right angle molding from QuarterArcade:

http://www.quarterarcade.com/Game.aspx/5651

I'm happy with the results, but it was pricey since I needed three pieces for the sides and front. I would do what YellowDog suggested if I need to do this again.
 
Yep that looks pretty nice. I might just do this. Does it come in eight or ten foot sections? The application this would be intended for in the real word would be? I could be in H/d for days looking for that!

Thanks Ken!

It comes in 8' sections IIRC. I have found it in the section by the window screening parts and also in the DIY metals sections. Just ask somebody where the angle iron is, it is usually in the same section. I usually buy the 3/4" but I think it come is 1" width as well.

You can get it in plastic as well, but I think the aluminum will stand up better in the long run.

ken
 
If you need to sand / reshape area being patched bondo'd I would just use the regular stuff that stuff with hairs in it gets as hard as a rock and is not as ez to work with after it sets up (In my experience)
 
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