Gorgar .... Another issue found.

VertexGuy

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well.. i fired it up finally.. But i might need alittle help here.

Now before i show the issue.. I will say she did say that this ball pop up on the left didnt work.



I plugged it in and turned it on and started to smell a burning smell.
Shut it right off,, opened the backbox and found this.
 
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No idea, but don't factor it in as the cause of the ball pop out not working, if the pop out wasn't working, this burning up on this board seems to be a separate issue that may have now simply failed and fried.

Tim
 
Try replacing that burnt transistor before splurging on that board. When they fail, they short on. Hence heating up and burning out. Replacing it and maybe a few other components in that area should fix it.

Definitely pull those batteries and clean with vinegar before they cause serious damage. Replace with a CR2032 or a battery pack located off of the board.

Otherwise from what you posted it looks pretty nice and clean, for it's age. Excellent score!
 
I think i found the cause of the blown transistor.




Posted this in the other forum, but figured I would post it here as well.

I had a coil that was getting really hot in one of my pins recently.
Basically the the plunger inside the coil had mushroomed creating drag which caused the coil to constantly overheat after a game or two (and it was getting really hot).
If your going to replace the coil, order a rebuild kit as well. The problem probably wasn't the coil as much as it was probably something with the plunger, tube etc and the coil suffered the brunt of it.
The coil for sure needs replaced and if it got that hot the tube inside it got hot enough to warp and needs replaced all together. That being said, my bet is that you need to rebuilt the entire thing. The overheating issue can be cased by a variety of things like mushroomed plunger, too much dirt and debris built up in the tube (either way needs replaced), plunger sticking in position etc. A simple rebuild and coil replacement should do the trick.
Rebuild kits are cheap and easy to install. There are a ton of youtube videos to walk you through it.
 
Assuming the linkage moves freely and is not broken, you want the coil AND sleeve. When a coil gets that hot, it warps the sleeve. See the posted manual for the coil number. If the new coil doesn't have that diode on it, move it from the old one. Just put it on the new coil with the band facing the same way and make a note of which terminal had the single wire and which had the double. Easy stuff. Also, since you're new to this, never lubricate plungers and sleeves. They are designed to work dry.

You're probably not even facing $30 worth of parts to put this behind you. It's not a huge deal.
 
Assuming the linkage moves freely and is not broken, you want the coil AND sleeve. When a coil gets that hot, it warps the sleeve. See the posted manual for the coil number. If the new coil doesn't have that diode on it, move it from the old one. Just put it on the new coil with the band facing the same way and make a note of which terminal had the single wire and which had the double. Easy stuff. Also, since you're new to this, never lubricate plungers and sleeves. They are designed to work dry.

You're probably not even facing $30 worth of parts to put this behind you. It's not a huge deal.

i ordered a coil that comes with a sleeve and a diode .

Now by plunger ,, you mean that shaft with the spring around it that looks black right?
i also have a spare coil that that says 900 on it instead of 850 i can rob for parts
if i have to i guess. sleeve wise. it was a knocker from an older williams pin
and it looks and operates mint.
 
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i ordered a coil that comes with a sleeve and a diode .

Now by plunger ,, you mean that shaft with the spring around it that looks black right?
i also have a spare coil that that says 900 on it instead of 850 i can rob for parts
if i have to i guess. sleeve wise. it was a knocker from an older williams pin
and it looks and operates mint.

Plunger = the metal rod(attached to linkage) that fits inside of the sleeve, which in turn fits inside of the coil.

Use the correct coil that you ordered.

The coil you ordered comes with a sleeve, so use that one. Depending on the coil, the sleeve could be a different length or circumference, so you want to use one thats correct for the coil. I wouldn't recommend reusing an old one because they get really dirty and this is one of the causes of friction, which in turn causes heat which clearly your having an issue with. They are really cheap, so theres no reason to reuse an old one. I'm a big advocate of replacing this kind of thing with new parts rather than scavenging.

As far as reusing the linkage and plunger. You could do that, but it could be part of your problem. If there is any kind of drag, friction or its getting stuck that could be whats caused the coil to burn up in the first place. If you replace the coil and the action is weak, than you have other issues. Anyhow, I would just replace it and the rebuild kits are cheap.

If you do decide to just put the new coil in and don't put a rebuild kit in for the plunger and linkage, I would check to make sure the coil is not overheating after a few games. Play a few games and then check to see if that coil is getting a lot hotter than the other coils. If so, rebuild and you should probably also replace the sleeve again at that point if it was getting really hot. Once again, I would just rebuild it in the first place and bullet proof it.
 
My 2 cents...

For outhole kickers like that, I doubt you'd need to order a new linkage. Even if there's a bit of slop in the linkage, if the ball kicks out, it's working well enough.

Definitely look for mushrooming on the plunger rod - the part that would strike the coil stop, as noted. If it's mushroomed on the end and dragging, you can get a metal file and simply file away the edges (round them off), to keep the plunger from dragging once re-installed. I've done this many times on non-critical plungers.

Not something I'd do with a flipper linkage typically - if it's gotten mushroomed, it's likely well past it's prime, and you almost certainly have enough slop in the linkage to give inaccurate flipper performance - just replace them unless the parts aren't available, or you have the parts to replace the worn parts of the assembly.
 
Do Not Use the other coil.

900 is for the number of turns on your original coil. 850 is less. It may not work at all.

Replace the coil and sleeve, check the plunger (yes, the black thing) for mushrooming against the stop (the part inside the coil). If it is mushroomed, you can use a good file to file off the material and restore the bevel profile it is supposed to have, and it will probably work for years.
 
Do Not Use the other coil.

900 is for the number of turns on your original coil. 850 is less. It may not work at all.

Replace the coil and sleeve, check the plunger (yes, the black thing) for mushrooming against the stop (the part inside the coil). If it is mushroomed, you can use a good file to file off the material and restore the bevel profile it is supposed to have, and it will probably work for years.

gave that some thought last night ..
If i get another one ill match the one that goes to that specific coil.
IF anybody has a gorgar and knows that left kickout part and can tell me where
to get one ill gladly get it.
 
update on the Gorgar..
Up and running again...

Credits go to ..

Drewscruis for outstanding board repair.

Brypton for installing the boards and burnt out parts..

 
I think i found the cause of the blown transistor.

You got it backwards brother. The transistor is what fried the coil.

Each transistor controls power to a coil, there is one for every coil.
When the transistor shorts, it causes the coil to "lock on" in an energized state at FULL power. The coil can only last minutes, maybe seconds.....when the coil then shorts it sends a feedback voltage back to the transistor and you can get fire....sometimes on both ends.

For future reference, any time you power up a pin and you see a coil lock on, shut it down immediately.
You can then disconnect the coil and then power up to trouble shoot other areas but you always know you have a bad transistor when you see a coil locked on.
 
This was more than just the transistor shorting and locking on the coil. There was a logic level fault that caused a cascading effect.
 
that coil was welded shut,, you can no longer see through it.
it was awesome lol.

75% of the bulbs in the backbox were out...
I do need a cap kit for the sound board too.
The drop targets "GOR" go down too slow.
 
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