Spyridon
Well-known member
Mine had a 4600 in it.
Gorf: my first restoration
- Thread starter nomore25s
- Start date
Mine had a 4600 in it.
OP
OP
After thinking about it I realized that the G07 has what I think is Bezerk burn-in. Its faint and installed in the machine I didn't notice it.
MrGorf
Well-known member
I remember when I first got my GORF it had very bad burn in form a pac-man. The burn in was also upside down.
OP
OP
Sigh
Well, a word to the wise - never assume anything.
My t-molding came - all 20 ft. of it (trust me, I measured that twice).
Unfortunately, Gorf needs 24 ft.
I guess I shouldn't have assumed that "20 ft is good for all games" meant Gorf as well.
Well, a word to the wise - never assume anything.
My t-molding came - all 20 ft. of it (trust me, I measured that twice).
Unfortunately, Gorf needs 24 ft.
I guess I shouldn't have assumed that "20 ft is good for all games" meant Gorf as well.
OP
OP
ack
Well, got a few things (minor) done.
Got the star field painted. Except for a few spots at the beginning it looks pretty good (IMO).
Installed t-molding. Its good enough until I need to order more (see previous post).
The big problem is that I installed a cap-kit on the monitor (G07) and now its very unhappy. Its blowing fuses on the AC-in like (from the ISO transformer on my test bench).
I'm now 2 of 5 on successful cap-kits. I think its time to give up on them
I guess I'll pull the monitor out of the other Gorf - it wasn't too bad.
Well, got a few things (minor) done.
Got the star field painted. Except for a few spots at the beginning it looks pretty good (IMO).
Installed t-molding. Its good enough until I need to order more (see previous post).
The big problem is that I installed a cap-kit on the monitor (G07) and now its very unhappy. Its blowing fuses on the AC-in like (from the ISO transformer on my test bench).
I'm now 2 of 5 on successful cap-kits. I think its time to give up on them
I guess I'll pull the monitor out of the other Gorf - it wasn't too bad.
Spyridon
Well-known member
That doesn't sound right. Gorf should use less than most games since you are only doing the top section. I had some left over from when I did mine. I'll have to measure to see what it uses.
OP
OP
OP
OP
A quick update.....I must be the worst solder/capkit installer. I installed the linear PS capkit. Sure seemed like it could not be more simple. Nice spacious PCB, big traces, etc. Anyway, getting ~ -.3v (yea, point three) on the +5, and ~3.4v on the +12v. -5 seems fine. Doublechecked all connections for continuity and all components for proper direction. Oh well, waste of $21 for a capkit.
Cabinet is mostly re-assembled. I've got to deal with the monitor - I received a chassis in the mail yesterday but haven't installed it. Got the wiring installed and pulled the PS from the other Gorf and at least the game fires up.
1) star field application DONE
2) joystick/control panel rebuild DONE
3) coin door rebuild
4) power supply cap kit DONE/BROKE
5) monitor cap kit DONE/BROKE
6) cabinet assembly (including t-molding) DONE
7) sideart application DONE
8) reinstall AC/DC wiring harnesses DONE
9) reinstall monitor, speakers, lights, etc. MOSTLY DONE
0) fix whatever is broken when I turn it on.....
Cabinet is mostly re-assembled. I've got to deal with the monitor - I received a chassis in the mail yesterday but haven't installed it. Got the wiring installed and pulled the PS from the other Gorf and at least the game fires up.
1) star field application DONE
2) joystick/control panel rebuild DONE
3) coin door rebuild
4) power supply cap kit DONE/BROKE
5) monitor cap kit DONE/BROKE
6) cabinet assembly (including t-molding) DONE
7) sideart application DONE
8) reinstall AC/DC wiring harnesses DONE
9) reinstall monitor, speakers, lights, etc. MOSTLY DONE
0) fix whatever is broken when I turn it on.....
OP
OP
Got the replacement G07 chassis from Chris - darn it is near spotless - I swear you wouldn't know it was a 25+ year old piece of electronics. I told him I could eat off it.
Anyway, installed the monitor and its looking good. I didn't have the patience to not at least try a game even though its not complete.
Darn, the joystick is still stuck - as soon as the game starts the ship moves all the way to the right. In test mode the "right" diagnostic is not lit (ie, its missing as if the joystick is pushed to the right.
So....I dunno where to start debugging it. I guess I'll tear apart the CP and start looking. I think I read on a an old thread that these optical switches? aren't available anywhere? I have another CP on another Gorf, I guess I could swap out the whole circuit board.
Oh well, another day, another issue....
Anyway, installed the monitor and its looking good. I didn't have the patience to not at least try a game even though its not complete.
Darn, the joystick is still stuck - as soon as the game starts the ship moves all the way to the right. In test mode the "right" diagnostic is not lit (ie, its missing as if the joystick is pushed to the right.
So....I dunno where to start debugging it. I guess I'll tear apart the CP and start looking. I think I read on a an old thread that these optical switches? aren't available anywhere? I have another CP on another Gorf, I guess I could swap out the whole circuit board.
Oh well, another day, another issue....
Spyridon
Well-known member
I think I know why I had enough. I ordered mine from Arcadeshop. You order from them by game so they have it sized already for you.
Yes, the joystick is optical. I had a similar problem with mine except once you moved up, you couldn't move back down. Clean the optics with some alcohol and reflow the header pins on the board. That fixed my problem.
OP
OP
No biggie on the t-molding - I'll get around to replacing it next order. I was stuck because I wanted to just order online since I was going to be busy that next day and well, I didn't want to call AS.
I'll take a look at the circuit board next time I get a chance. Might just swipe the other one...
OP
OP
Okay, swiped an optical switch off the other Gorf and I'm up and running
I've got to put the hardware on the cabinet to clamp down the CP, finish cleaning the bezel, and track down a speaker problem.
Oh yea, and that coin door.
I've got to put the hardware on the cabinet to clamp down the CP, finish cleaning the bezel, and track down a speaker problem.
Oh yea, and that coin door.
OP
OP
I know, sorry. I've been busy and bummed out about all the small problems creeping up. Now that its all back together I need to get the monitor glass and (bezel?) on there before I take pictures.
I did have to sneak in a game tonight. I know one thing different than 20+ years ago - I need a bar stool with more padding....
Hopefully some pictures tomorrow or Sunday.
OP
OP
minor stuff
Replaced a 2nd bad speaker.
Sigh. I am starting to believe I picked the wrong Gorf to restore. I picked this one based solely on the condition of the inner artwork. On the one I didn't restore it was bubbling and pulled away from the cabinet. In hindsight it probably could have been re-glued and looked better than the one I picked (which has a missing piece).
Here are two pictures, one is the coin door from the one I am restoring and the other is the one from the other Gorf. I know what you're saying - just pull THAT coin door and swap. Well, I might end up doing that just because I'm running out of spare cycles to work on this.
Tonight (and last night) I tried playing a game and in the middle of the game the controls would stop going right. Turning it off and on didn't fix the problem, but turning it off and letting it "rest" does I guess "something" in the joystick PCB is overheating? I wonder if that caused the original optical switch to go bad and this one is on its way to going dead?
About the only good news is the bezel. It had some crud on it that prevented me from working on it more. I think it must have been discolored clear enamel? Anyway, instead of risking a harsher grit sandpaper I tested a spot with the citristrip. It was weird, the stripping gel actually got gummy in places where this stuff was. Anyway, I hit it again with the stripping gel and then with the steel wool and it came out presentable. Then sprayed it with the clear enamel. I need to pick up some of these bolts and a t-nut? tomorrow.
Here are the coindoors. I'm really leaning towards swiping the other one as the Midway plate is in really good shape. Sorry about the bad lighting on the 2nd picture.
Replaced a 2nd bad speaker.
Sigh. I am starting to believe I picked the wrong Gorf to restore. I picked this one based solely on the condition of the inner artwork. On the one I didn't restore it was bubbling and pulled away from the cabinet. In hindsight it probably could have been re-glued and looked better than the one I picked (which has a missing piece).
Here are two pictures, one is the coin door from the one I am restoring and the other is the one from the other Gorf. I know what you're saying - just pull THAT coin door and swap. Well, I might end up doing that just because I'm running out of spare cycles to work on this.
Tonight (and last night) I tried playing a game and in the middle of the game the controls would stop going right. Turning it off and on didn't fix the problem, but turning it off and letting it "rest" does
I guess "something" in the joystick PCB is overheating? I wonder if that caused the original optical switch to go bad and this one is on its way to going dead?About the only good news is the bezel. It had some crud on it that prevented me from working on it more. I think it must have been discolored clear enamel? Anyway, instead of risking a harsher grit sandpaper I tested a spot with the citristrip. It was weird, the stripping gel actually got gummy in places where this stuff was. Anyway, I hit it again with the stripping gel and then with the steel wool and it came out presentable. Then sprayed it with the clear enamel. I need to pick up some of these bolts and a t-nut? tomorrow.
Here are the coindoors. I'm really leaning towards swiping the other one as the Midway plate is in really good shape. Sorry about the bad lighting on the 2nd picture.
Attachments
OP
OP
Semi-final pictures
Okay, well I still have to do the coin door (its stripped, gotta prep it and then paint it) and get the joystick PCB straightened out.
Here are some pictures - again I apologize for the crappy lighting, I promise to post some with the finished coindoor outside with some natural lighting "soon".
Okay, well I still have to do the coin door (its stripped, gotta prep it and then paint it) and get the joystick PCB straightened out.
Here are some pictures - again I apologize for the crappy lighting, I promise to post some with the finished coindoor outside with some natural lighting "soon".
Attachments
_jmfr
Well-known member
I know your down because of the problems your having with it, but I must say it's looking awesome! keep your spirits up!
OP
OP
Wow, that looks beautiful! I love the paint job and just how damn clean everything looks.
