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Gorf: my first restoration
- Thread starter nomore25s
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Spyridon
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No, didn't even think about it
I'm probably going to do another Gorf. It would be good if he can adjust the color.
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small steps
Well, waiting on sideart still. Its supposedly on its way, but via USPS I can't get any details online
Started some cleanup work. Cleaned the metal marquee brackets and hit them with the clear enamel. I took some 000 steel wool to them and that got rid of some of the crud.
I then started on the monitor bezel bracket? Its a mess. The first picture is how it looked. It you look close enough you can see the middle hole was dimpled in, they used a drywall screw on it and messed it up. I hammed it out as best I could and hit it with 409. The 409 didn't do anything to it (see 2nd picture). So I went back to the 000 steel wool. I finally got some of the crud off (what IS that?) It has to be something more than cigarette tar.
Anyway, the last picture is what it looks like after 15 minutes of hard scrubbing with the SW before my hands started cramping. I'll give it another go tomorrow but and tempted to try something abrasive on the dremel....
I have 3 metal pieces that need to be cleaned up and hit with some black paint, but I ran out after spraying the inside of the back door. I might hit Lowe's tomorrow and take one of my spare back doors in for a color match to see what they come up with. I'm leaning towards matching (as best as possible) original cabinet color.
Well, waiting on sideart still. Its supposedly on its way, but via USPS I can't get any details online
Started some cleanup work. Cleaned the metal marquee brackets and hit them with the clear enamel. I took some 000 steel wool to them and that got rid of some of the crud.
I then started on the monitor bezel bracket? Its a mess. The first picture is how it looked. It you look close enough you can see the middle hole was dimpled in, they used a drywall screw on it and messed it up. I hammed it out as best I could and hit it with 409. The 409 didn't do anything to it (see 2nd picture). So I went back to the 000 steel wool. I finally got some of the crud off (what IS that?) It has to be something more than cigarette tar.
Anyway, the last picture is what it looks like after 15 minutes of hard scrubbing with the SW before my hands started cramping. I'll give it another go tomorrow but and tempted to try something abrasive on the dremel....
I have 3 metal pieces that need to be cleaned up and hit with some black paint, but I ran out after spraying the inside of the back door. I might hit Lowe's tomorrow and take one of my spare back doors in for a color match to see what they come up with. I'm leaning towards matching (as best as possible) original cabinet color.
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more small stuff
I had the backdoors in the car with the plan to use one at Lowes for a color match. I then realized that I needed to prep the doors themselves and realized they were particle board. I was afraid to put stripper on it for fear of having the gel damage the doors. So I asked someone in woodworking and he told me to bring them over. He ran them through a continuous feed (guessing) 3ft wide sanding machine. Took most of the paint off, but more importantly, made them very smooth.
The previous owner had (again with the drywall screws) screwed one of the wire "vents" on, and screwed all the way through the door - geez. Anyway, those are patched, and I went ahead and hit the top door with the black spray paint. The vents I hit with the "metallic finish" but they appear to need a 3rd/4th coat (or the shadows are just really bad).
The first picture is of the tokens I found in the cabinet back when I started tearing it apart. [Okay, that last picture sucks, but you get the idea]
I had the backdoors in the car with the plan to use one at Lowes for a color match. I then realized that I needed to prep the doors themselves and realized they were particle board. I was afraid to put stripper on it for fear of having the gel damage the doors. So I asked someone in woodworking and he told me to bring them over. He ran them through a continuous feed (guessing) 3ft wide sanding machine. Took most of the paint off, but more importantly, made them very smooth.
The previous owner had (again with the drywall screws) screwed one of the wire "vents" on, and screwed all the way through the door - geez. Anyway, those are patched, and I went ahead and hit the top door with the black spray paint. The vents I hit with the "metallic finish" but they appear to need a 3rd/4th coat (or the shadows are just really bad).
The first picture is of the tokens I found in the cabinet back when I started tearing it apart. [Okay, that last picture sucks, but you get the idea]
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Side art arrived!
Side art showed up today! I have to say, its real close to the color of my 2nd Gorf. So the question becomes - does anyone have any NOS Gorf sideart thats been in storage (ie, hasn't faded)?
I'm running to Lowes and going to have to color match it.
I'll post crummy pictures later.
Side art showed up today! I have to say, its real close to the color of my 2nd Gorf. So the question becomes - does anyone have any NOS Gorf sideart thats been in storage (ie, hasn't faded)?
I'm running to Lowes and going to have to color match it.
I'll post crummy pictures later.
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Probably. I bought this (and two other games) from a guy in Cincy that said his parents owned an arcade. He said when he was growing up they would give him games for his birthday. Said he had over 30 and he's been slowly selling them off. This Gorf and 2 others I bought from him. He had a Tempest and some pins that he wouldn't sell. The tempest had PS problems, I believe.
He advertised them as "needs new ROMs". This Gorf just needed its PS adjusted (and completely restored
. The Defender I picked up needed a fuse and other than the control panel is damn near spotless. The Omega Race has/had some pretty bad board rot.
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Some paintin'
Okay, Lowes failed to color match the sideart. Said it was because it was digitally produced? Whatever. Found a color that was pretty close so I went ahead with it. I can always go back and try another color, right? Again, its dark out and my basement lights suck. The camera/poor lighting/wet paint make it look a lot more purple than I think it is. Also, just a first coat on top of the primer. I'll drag it outside tomorrow for some light sanding before another coat. When I do that I'll take some pictures + the sideart + my other Gorf for comparison.
I guess I better order some t-molding! [edit - t-molding.com out of stock, and I forgot arcadeshop doesn't do online....guess I'll call them Monday]
[wow, after looking at those pictures you can really tell the difference in the lighting - just ignore them until tomorrow]
Okay, Lowes failed to color match the sideart. Said it was because it was digitally produced? Whatever. Found a color that was pretty close so I went ahead with it. I can always go back and try another color, right? Again, its dark out and my basement lights suck. The camera/poor lighting/wet paint make it look a lot more purple than I think it is. Also, just a first coat on top of the primer. I'll drag it outside tomorrow for some light sanding before another coat. When I do that I'll take some pictures + the sideart + my other Gorf for comparison.
I guess I better order some t-molding! [edit - t-molding.com out of stock, and I forgot arcadeshop doesn't do online....guess I'll call them Monday]
[wow, after looking at those pictures you can really tell the difference in the lighting - just ignore them until tomorrow]
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Spyridon
Well-known member
Nice. That piece is from the earlier runs of Gorf. Gorf was originally designed to have one of the speakers behind that panel.
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Paintin' and sideart
Okay, got some more paint on today. Here are some pictures after the 2nd coat. I've already put the 3rd (and hopefully last) coat on since these were taken.
The last two pictures are of my other Gorf with the new sideart. Then the last has the newly painted backdoor. You can see the old sideart bottom 4 inches or so. That cabinet is dirty and so I don't know what sort of true color representation it really is....
I'll take some pictures tomorrow with the sideart taped up to the newly painted cabinet.
Okay, got some more paint on today. Here are some pictures after the 2nd coat. I've already put the 3rd (and hopefully last) coat on since these were taken.
The last two pictures are of my other Gorf with the new sideart. Then the last has the newly painted backdoor. You can see the old sideart bottom 4 inches or so. That cabinet is dirty and so I don't know what sort of true color representation it really is....
I'll take some pictures tomorrow with the sideart taped up to the newly painted cabinet.
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power harness and pieces
Okay, washed up the AC stuff. I managed to not keep track of the fuses - any way to tell what sizes, as they're unreadable? Also, what is supposed to be in the fuse holders?
Hand washed everything, hit the fuse holder with some light sandpaper to remove any oxidation. Came across what I thought was a 1/2" fiber washer on the on/off switch.....it wasn't a washer. I'd post the rinse water from the bucket, but you'll just have to imagine how black it was....
Third coat of paint is drying nicely on the cabinet. I'll get some pictures later. No noticeable roller marks, which was a worry. Looking smooth. Its nice seeing the top of a cabinet that I'm not afraid to touch
Okay, washed up the AC stuff. I managed to not keep track of the fuses - any way to tell what sizes, as they're unreadable? Also, what is supposed to be in the fuse holders?
Hand washed everything, hit the fuse holder with some light sandpaper to remove any oxidation. Came across what I thought was a 1/2" fiber washer on the on/off switch.....it wasn't a washer. I'd post the rinse water from the bucket, but you'll just have to imagine how black it was....
Third coat of paint is drying nicely on the cabinet. I'll get some pictures later. No noticeable roller marks, which was a worry. Looking smooth. Its nice seeing the top of a cabinet that I'm not afraid to touch
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Progress
Okay, the cabinet is dry enough to move, so here is a picture or two. The deck is in the way for the second one, sorry.
You can see the differences in the appearances of the two sides. They don't show up that way, really. Just my poor photography skills.
Also on deck, the control panel! Getting the repro'd CPO from Rich@ThisOldGame made this project worthwhile....I'd hate to have done all this work to leave THIS on the machine.
Okay, the cabinet is dry enough to move, so here is a picture or two. The deck is in the way for the second one, sorry.
You can see the differences in the appearances of the two sides. They don't show up that way, really. Just my poor photography skills.
Also on deck, the control panel! Getting the repro'd CPO from Rich@ThisOldGame made this project worthwhile....I'd hate to have done all this work to leave THIS on the machine.
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CP
Went ahead and started dismantling the CP. One of the security screws on the handle is rusted solid. I put some rust-eating-stuff (technical, eh?) on it but I think the outer hex is now rounded. I guess if I'm careful I might be able to drill it out....that'll be for tomorrow.
Went ahead and started dismantling the CP. One of the security screws on the handle is rusted solid. I put some rust-eating-stuff (technical, eh?) on it but I think the outer hex is now rounded. I guess if I'm careful I might be able to drill it out....that'll be for tomorrow.
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slow progress
Not much tonight, too many things taking away from restoration time
Picked up the grey from Sherwin Williams. Maybe its the poor lighting, but I think it was about the same as what I already put on there. Doesn't matter, it would have bugged me if I hadn't tried it.
Ordered the leg leveler plates from Bob Roberts and the teflon? legs from Quarter Arcade (along with the t-molding). I also ordered some connectors (the infamous AC-in one that the yellow wire melts off....) to fix that power harness.
Ordered those #73 bulbs from bulbman.com for the joystick. Sigh, the shipping was more than the bulbs (cheapest was ground @ $9+, bulbs were $1.60/each).
Was able to get the rusted security screw out of the joystick handle - used a torx/star security tip and it was able to catch enough to squeak it out. I don't know what I'm going to do to replace it.
I may have screwed up, I got the joystick assembly apart and only then realized that the orientation will matter when I put it back in (so up is up, not down). Oh well, will worry about that later.
I'm thrilled with the 3rd/final coat of the top part of the cabinet. I think tomorrow I'll start playing with the toothbrush application of the white dots/stars.
So a rough checklist:
1) star field application
2) joystick/control panel rebuild
3) coin door rebuild
4) power supply cap kit
5) monitor cap kit
6) cabinet assembly (including t-molding)
7) sideart application
8) reinstall AC/DC wiring harnesses
9) reinstall monitor, speakers, lights, etc.
0) fix whatever is broken when I turn it on.....
Not much tonight, too many things taking away from restoration time
Picked up the grey from Sherwin Williams. Maybe its the poor lighting, but I think it was about the same as what I already put on there. Doesn't matter, it would have bugged me if I hadn't tried it.
Ordered the leg leveler plates from Bob Roberts and the teflon? legs from Quarter Arcade (along with the t-molding). I also ordered some connectors (the infamous AC-in one that the yellow wire melts off....) to fix that power harness.
Ordered those #73 bulbs from bulbman.com for the joystick. Sigh, the shipping was more than the bulbs (cheapest was ground @ $9+, bulbs were $1.60/each).
Was able to get the rusted security screw out of the joystick handle - used a torx/star security tip and it was able to catch enough to squeak it out. I don't know what I'm going to do to replace it.
I may have screwed up, I got the joystick assembly apart and only then realized that the orientation will matter when I put it back in (so up is up, not down). Oh well, will worry about that later.
I'm thrilled with the 3rd/final coat of the top part of the cabinet. I think tomorrow I'll start playing with the toothbrush application of the white dots/stars.
So a rough checklist:
1) star field application
2) joystick/control panel rebuild
3) coin door rebuild
4) power supply cap kit
5) monitor cap kit
6) cabinet assembly (including t-molding)
7) sideart application
8) reinstall AC/DC wiring harnesses
9) reinstall monitor, speakers, lights, etc.
0) fix whatever is broken when I turn it on.....
Spyridon
Well-known member
I was able to find them locally at Autozone.
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Local Autozone here only had #74's. I think they'll work, but they were 2/$4.99, ack!
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More progress
Control panel is "done". I don't know if it will work, but I tore it down, dremel'd off the rust, cleaned the optics with alcohol (q-tips were red after cleaning the optics), painted the wooden base, polished up the bolts, installed new bulbs and re-assembled. I also installed a ToG repro of the plastic cover for the lights. The other was "okay", and I don't know if my picture helps, but the other was all scratched and dull.
I'll need some new 1/2 player buttons eventually.
Control panel is "done". I don't know if it will work, but I tore it down, dremel'd off the rust, cleaned the optics with alcohol (q-tips were red after cleaning the optics), painted the wooden base, polished up the bolts, installed new bulbs and re-assembled. I also installed a ToG repro of the plastic cover for the lights. The other was "okay", and I don't know if my picture helps, but the other was all scratched and dull.
I'll need some new 1/2 player buttons eventually.
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Misc.
Added new leg level plates and legs from Bob R. The teflon legs will be here Friday along with the t-molding.
I finished capping/rebuilding the power supply tonight. I managed to burn the crap out of me last night. I was trying to steady the iron with my off hand and that worked for the .5 seconds until my finger told my brain it was burning. Ouch. One of those "okay, its time to call it quits for the night" moment.
I have the molex connector to fix the AC-in line (where one of the wires melted the connector and the wire was soldered on). I'll fix that tomorrow.
Made the mistake of putting the top part of the cabinet back on the base and re-attaching it. Must resist putting the sideart on a little longer....
Need to get started on the coin door and the star field application.
Added new leg level plates and legs from Bob R. The teflon legs will be here Friday along with the t-molding.
I finished capping/rebuilding the power supply tonight. I managed to burn the crap out of me last night. I was trying to steady the iron with my off hand and that worked for the .5 seconds until my finger told my brain it was burning. Ouch. One of those "okay, its time to call it quits for the night" moment.
I have the molex connector to fix the AC-in line (where one of the wires melted the connector and the wire was soldered on). I'll fix that tomorrow.
Made the mistake of putting the top part of the cabinet back on the base and re-attaching it. Must resist putting the sideart on a little longer....
Need to get started on the coin door and the star field application.
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Slow progress
Didn't have a lot of time tonight. Was able to get the AC-in molex connector swapped out. Also added some small connectors for the speakers, which I had to cut the wires to remove the wiring harness. Now they're plug-n-play.
Pulled the monitor chassis. Wow, thats a 1000 times easier to pull than a WG4600! I'm reading Bob Roberts notes on the G07 and I'm going to sleep on it - with talks of modifications and upgrades. We'll see tomorrow.
I keep putting off the coin door....its not going to be fun.
Oh yea, t-molding should be here tomorrow!
Didn't have a lot of time tonight. Was able to get the AC-in molex connector swapped out. Also added some small connectors for the speakers, which I had to cut the wires to remove the wiring harness. Now they're plug-n-play.
Pulled the monitor chassis. Wow, thats a 1000 times easier to pull than a WG4600! I'm reading Bob Roberts notes on the G07 and I'm going to sleep on it - with talks of modifications and upgrades. We'll see tomorrow.
I keep putting off the coin door....its not going to be fun.
Oh yea, t-molding should be here tomorrow!
