GORF Finally Enters The Outer Limits

Nice gameroom, nice lineup. The pics of the kid are great, but they made me think of this scene somehow

close_encounters.jpg
 
I never knew this game was so fun until I got one a couple months ago. It's great, looks great, plays great, doesn't really get old because it has several levels, etc. The speech is cool, the lights on the stick are cool. Great game.

Edit: Just noticed your handle isn't lighting up, you gotta check that out, the wires probably broke inside. It's a really cool effect, the light is lit up until you shoot, then it goes off, so it's constantly blinking with the sound of the shot. Awesome effect.
 
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Thanks guys. The Galaxian HAD CFL BLB's but I swapped them with the Gorf lower marquee. For now. Never thought about lighting up the louvres. As to the next 2 games, Space Invaders Deluxe and my Multi-Williams. I've given up on a Mad Planets.

The louvers just feel like they should have lights..

As for mad planets, it can't be that hard to find one.. Short of that, I have a spare pcb and marquee. You could always build one..
 
I never knew this game was so fun until I got one a couple months ago. It's great, looks great, plays great, doesn't really get old because it has several levels, etc. The speech is cool, the lights on the stick are cool. Great game.

Edit: Just noticed your handle isn't lighting up, you gotta check that out, the wires probably broke inside. It's a really cool effect, the light is lit up until you shoot, then it goes off, so it's constantly blinking with the sound of the shot. Awesome effect.

I had the whole stick apart to clean it. I replaced the bulbs with new ones. I also saw no broken wires. Anything else I should look for? Does that little PCB control the lighting effect? Could it be bad?
 
The louvers just feel like they should have lights..

As for mad planets, it can't be that hard to find one.. Short of that, I have a spare pcb and marquee. You could always build one..

I'll try using some blue LED's back there and see what it looks like. Cool idea. As to Mad Planets, I just stopped looking for a while.
 
Looks amazing, Phetty cakes! Gorf is a pretty neat game and looks good with all the other "out of this world" titles. :)
 
I had the whole stick apart to clean it. I replaced the bulbs with new ones. I also saw no broken wires. Anything else I should look for? Does that little PCB control the lighting effect? Could it be bad?

First thing....check the header pins for solder cracks on the small PCB under the joystick and on the ranking lights behind the bezel.

When you hit a start button, the joystick light should turn on (just like your beginning ranking light). Everytime you hit the fire button, the light goes out until your missile clears the screen....at which time, the light comes back on. If you continue to fire, without letting any shots clear the top of the screen.....the light will not come back on.

OK, that's how it works.....now the tech. part (hopefully, you've just got a cracked solder joint at a header connector).......

The joystick lamp is driven by transistor Q7 on the rank light board. This transistor is fed a signal from the game board in the card rack (via 28-pin connector, pin 12). The signal exits transistor Q7 (and the rank light board at pin 3 of it's connector). This signal enters the joystick PCB at connector J2, pin 2. From there, it runs to connector J1 pin 4 of the joystick PCB. It exits here and goes to one side of the lamp. The other side of the lamp runs to J1 pin 5 and enters the joystick PCB. This goes to connector J2 pin 1 of the joystick PCB. This will now go to pin 17 of the 19 pin connector of the power supply. This is the 12 volt unregulated line that powers the lamp. Confused yet?:)

Edward
 
First thing....check the header pins for solder cracks on the small PCB under the joystick and on the ranking lights behind the bezel.

When you hit a start button, the joystick light should turn on (just like your beginning ranking light). Everytime you hit the fire button, the light goes out until your missile clears the screen....at which time, the light comes back on. If you continue to fire, without letting any shots clear the top of the screen.....the light will not come back on.

OK, that's how it works.....now the tech. part (hopefully, you've just got a cracked solder joint at a header connector).......

The joystick lamp is driven by transistor Q7 on the rank light board. This transistor is fed a signal from the game board in the card rack (via 28-pin connector, pin 12). The signal exits transistor Q7 (and the rank light board at pin 3 of it's connector). This signal enters the joystick PCB at connector J2, pin 2. From there, it runs to connector J1 pin 4 of the joystick PCB. It exits here and goes to one side of the lamp. The other side of the lamp runs to J1 pin 5 and enters the joystick PCB. This goes to connector J2 pin 1 of the joystick PCB. This will now go to pin 17 of the 19 pin connector of the power supply. This is the 12 volt unregulated line that powers the lamp. Confused yet?:)

Edward

Whoa, awesome info. All 6 rank bulbs light up in test mode (I wouldn't know what they do in game mode, as I have never made it past the Space Cadet level) so the 12V power is getting that far. The bulbs are new replacements from the Auto Parts store, so I am thinking it is the mini PCB in the stick. I had to de-solder the wires from it when I took the stick apart, so the solder should be good there. (Maybe I swapped wires? Nah, I doubt it). I'll snap a pic and check the pinout to make sure. I'll also check the solder joints at the mini header pins. I WANT LIGHTS IN MY STICK.
 
What wattage of bulbs did you have in the lower marquee? The originals are those hot dog shaped "banker lamp" bulbs and the right wattage shouldn't wash out the marquee. I think they were like 15w or something along those lines, same with the rear upper backglass marquee.

The only concern I'd have is artwork fading from the cfl's since the ink wasn't designed for that spectrum originally.

Great looking game BTW, GORF is one of my favorites, the grocery store where I was a sack boy BITD had one right up front and I spent many a break playing it.
 
Phet,

That looks damn amazing, I havent seen any pix since you just painted the border lines how the hell did you do that with the walls???? BTW great line up of games as always, Id love to have a Gorf one day. Great game for sure.
 
What wattage of bulbs did you have in the lower marquee? The originals are those hot dog shaped "banker lamp" bulbs and the right wattage shouldn't wash out the marquee. I think they were like 15w or something along those lines, same with the rear upper backglass marquee.

The only concern I'd have is artwork fading from the cfl's since the ink wasn't designed for that spectrum originally.

Great looking game BTW, GORF is one of my favorites, the grocery store where I was a sack boy BITD had one right up front and I spent many a break playing it.

Well I am using 2 25 Watt CFL's and they really 'wash it out' mainly in flash-less photos. With flash, it looks more like this:

SSL11932.jpg


They just put out a lot of light, lighting up the Outer Limits and taking away the dark arcade feel:

SSL11935.jpg


The BLB's bring the overall lumen level down:

SSL11958.jpg


But they do take away the color due to the limited spectrum. Note the pinks/reds and purples are gone. Maybe I should try and find white 15V mini CFLs.
 
Phet,

That looks damn amazing, I havent seen any pix since you just painted the border lines how the hell did you do that with the walls???? BTW great line up of games as always, Id love to have a Gorf one day. Great game for sure.

Thanks Jake. I painted the scene with the ship blasting the moon (inspired by Mad Planets), and the Earth image is a huge 8-piece wall mural that I put up with wall paper paste. The black lights bring out the depth, and make it feel more 3-D:

SSL11948.jpg

SSL11944.jpg
 
First thing....check the header pins for solder cracks on the small PCB under the joystick and on the ranking lights behind the bezel.

When you hit a start button, the joystick light should turn on (just like your beginning ranking light). Everytime you hit the fire button, the light goes out until your missile clears the screen....at which time, the light comes back on. If you continue to fire, without letting any shots clear the top of the screen.....the light will not come back on.

OK, that's how it works.....now the tech. part (hopefully, you've just got a cracked solder joint at a header connector).......

The joystick lamp is driven by transistor Q7 on the rank light board. This transistor is fed a signal from the game board in the card rack (via 28-pin connector, pin 12). The signal exits transistor Q7 (and the rank light board at pin 3 of it's connector). This signal enters the joystick PCB at connector J2, pin 2. From there, it runs to connector J1 pin 4 of the joystick PCB. It exits here and goes to one side of the lamp. The other side of the lamp runs to J1 pin 5 and enters the joystick PCB. This goes to connector J2 pin 1 of the joystick PCB. This will now go to pin 17 of the 19 pin connector of the power supply. This is the 12 volt unregulated line that powers the lamp. Confused yet?:)

Edward

thanks for the info - my rank lights don't work. will have to take a look at that!
 
Whoa, awesome info. All 6 rank bulbs light up in test mode (I wouldn't know what they do in game mode, as I have never made it past the Space Cadet level) so the 12V power is getting that far. The bulbs are new replacements from the Auto Parts store, so I am thinking it is the mini PCB in the stick. I had to de-solder the wires from it when I took the stick apart, so the solder should be good there. (Maybe I swapped wires? Nah, I doubt it). I'll snap a pic and check the pinout to make sure. I'll also check the solder joints at the mini header pins. I WANT LIGHTS IN MY STICK.

Transistor Q7 could be bad. It happens.

Edward
 
Not sure but do you have up to date videos of you arcades Phet? Looks great
 
I finally hit the rank of Space captain last night. Kinda cool how the robot's speech/words change with the rank. This game is such a welcome addition to the Outer Limits. I get to go from Galaxian to Berzerk to Asteroids Deluxe and then finish off my evening with Gorf. I have been taking a break from Moon Patrol and my Tempest monitor has been randomly going black, so I have been staying away from those 2 lately. But really, once you have a Gorf, you don't notice many other games near it. This game is a visual orgasm.

SSL11956.jpg
 
Thanks Jake. I painted the scene with the ship blasting the moon (inspired by Mad Planets), and the Earth image is a huge 8-piece wall mural that I put up with wall paper paste. The black lights bring out the depth, and make it feel more 3-D:

SSL11948.jpg

SSL11944.jpg

WOW!!! Those pictures simply look AMAZING! The atmosphere you have created by your wall artwork really shines through. I always smile every time I see 'the pocket' created specifically for the Ms. Pac Mini. ;)

As for Gorf....the lights in the stick always seem to be cracked solder on the header pins and the ranking lights bad transistors....or at least that is what I have always found. I replaced my lower bezel lights with the same 15W bulbs (found them at a local aquarium supply place) pretty darn cheap....and yes....they are pretty bright....but the entire Gorf game lit up to me is a fantastic looking cabinet so I don't mind the attention it draws....

Alan
 
... then my sound and power board went out, I tried a rebuild, but it was still f'ed, so Elutz graciously helped me with that. Thanks Mike and Ed, you guys are awesome.....

Glad you got it back up and running. Gorf is awesome.

So the last thing turned out to be a failing power supply?
 
and my Tempest monitor has been randomly going black

Your poor Tempest. Everyone else plays theirs all the time, but yours has been a fuck story the entire time you have owned it. Ive thought about picking one up, but after hearing your horror stories Ive decided to run far, far away.
 
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