joeycuda
Well-known member
Nice gameroom, nice lineup. The pics of the kid are great, but they made me think of this scene somehow
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Thanks guys. The Galaxian HAD CFL BLB's but I swapped them with the Gorf lower marquee. For now. Never thought about lighting up the louvres. As to the next 2 games, Space Invaders Deluxe and my Multi-Williams. I've given up on a Mad Planets.
I never knew this game was so fun until I got one a couple months ago. It's great, looks great, plays great, doesn't really get old because it has several levels, etc. The speech is cool, the lights on the stick are cool. Great game.
Edit: Just noticed your handle isn't lighting up, you gotta check that out, the wires probably broke inside. It's a really cool effect, the light is lit up until you shoot, then it goes off, so it's constantly blinking with the sound of the shot. Awesome effect.
The louvers just feel like they should have lights..
As for mad planets, it can't be that hard to find one.. Short of that, I have a spare pcb and marquee. You could always build one..
I had the whole stick apart to clean it. I replaced the bulbs with new ones. I also saw no broken wires. Anything else I should look for? Does that little PCB control the lighting effect? Could it be bad?
First thing....check the header pins for solder cracks on the small PCB under the joystick and on the ranking lights behind the bezel.
When you hit a start button, the joystick light should turn on (just like your beginning ranking light). Everytime you hit the fire button, the light goes out until your missile clears the screen....at which time, the light comes back on. If you continue to fire, without letting any shots clear the top of the screen.....the light will not come back on.
OK, that's how it works.....now the tech. part (hopefully, you've just got a cracked solder joint at a header connector).......
The joystick lamp is driven by transistor Q7 on the rank light board. This transistor is fed a signal from the game board in the card rack (via 28-pin connector, pin 12). The signal exits transistor Q7 (and the rank light board at pin 3 of it's connector). This signal enters the joystick PCB at connector J2, pin 2. From there, it runs to connector J1 pin 4 of the joystick PCB. It exits here and goes to one side of the lamp. The other side of the lamp runs to J1 pin 5 and enters the joystick PCB. This goes to connector J2 pin 1 of the joystick PCB. This will now go to pin 17 of the 19 pin connector of the power supply. This is the 12 volt unregulated line that powers the lamp. Confused yet?
Edward
What wattage of bulbs did you have in the lower marquee? The originals are those hot dog shaped "banker lamp" bulbs and the right wattage shouldn't wash out the marquee. I think they were like 15w or something along those lines, same with the rear upper backglass marquee.
The only concern I'd have is artwork fading from the cfl's since the ink wasn't designed for that spectrum originally.
Great looking game BTW, GORF is one of my favorites, the grocery store where I was a sack boy BITD had one right up front and I spent many a break playing it.
Phet,
That looks damn amazing, I havent seen any pix since you just painted the border lines how the hell did you do that with the walls???? BTW great line up of games as always, Id love to have a Gorf one day. Great game for sure.
First thing....check the header pins for solder cracks on the small PCB under the joystick and on the ranking lights behind the bezel.
When you hit a start button, the joystick light should turn on (just like your beginning ranking light). Everytime you hit the fire button, the light goes out until your missile clears the screen....at which time, the light comes back on. If you continue to fire, without letting any shots clear the top of the screen.....the light will not come back on.
OK, that's how it works.....now the tech. part (hopefully, you've just got a cracked solder joint at a header connector).......
The joystick lamp is driven by transistor Q7 on the rank light board. This transistor is fed a signal from the game board in the card rack (via 28-pin connector, pin 12). The signal exits transistor Q7 (and the rank light board at pin 3 of it's connector). This signal enters the joystick PCB at connector J2, pin 2. From there, it runs to connector J1 pin 4 of the joystick PCB. It exits here and goes to one side of the lamp. The other side of the lamp runs to J1 pin 5 and enters the joystick PCB. This goes to connector J2 pin 1 of the joystick PCB. This will now go to pin 17 of the 19 pin connector of the power supply. This is the 12 volt unregulated line that powers the lamp. Confused yet?
Edward
Whoa, awesome info. All 6 rank bulbs light up in test mode (I wouldn't know what they do in game mode, as I have never made it past the Space Cadet level) so the 12V power is getting that far. The bulbs are new replacements from the Auto Parts store, so I am thinking it is the mini PCB in the stick. I had to de-solder the wires from it when I took the stick apart, so the solder should be good there. (Maybe I swapped wires? Nah, I doubt it). I'll snap a pic and check the pinout to make sure. I'll also check the solder joints at the mini header pins. I WANT LIGHTS IN MY STICK.
Not sure but do you have up to date videos of you arcades Phet? Looks great
Thanks Jake. I painted the scene with the ship blasting the moon (inspired by Mad Planets), and the Earth image is a huge 8-piece wall mural that I put up with wall paper paste. The black lights bring out the depth, and make it feel more 3-D:
![]()
![]()
... then my sound and power board went out, I tried a rebuild, but it was still f'ed, so Elutz graciously helped me with that. Thanks Mike and Ed, you guys are awesome.....
and my Tempest monitor has been randomly going black