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Gorf Controller - Modern part for Optos?
- Thread starter tta583
- Start date
I do not have a Gorf, fyi. I just happened to stumble on this, and saved it. Apparently, the NTE 3100 is a compatible replacement, but since the pins are larger you have to carefully make new holes close by without completely trashing your solder pads. My source:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec....3?lnk=gst&q=GORF+OPTO&rnum=2#992f240ae542eca3
and here is the link to a supplier of the part (it is expensive
)
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvkC18yXH9iIvlH%2b7DLPI6OHuCHDBGG2pU=
Let us know how it turns out, if you go this route that is
http://groups.google.com/group/rec....3?lnk=gst&q=GORF+OPTO&rnum=2#992f240ae542eca3
and here is the link to a supplier of the part (it is expensive
)http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvkC18yXH9iIvlH%2b7DLPI6OHuCHDBGG2pU=
Let us know how it turns out, if you go this route that is
Last edited:
I do not have a Gorf, fyi. I just happened to stumble on this, and saved it. Apparently, the NTE 3100 is a compatible replacement, but since the pins are larger you have to carefully make new holes close by without completely trashing your solder pads. My source:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec....3?lnk=gst&q=GORF+OPTO&rnum=2#992f240ae542eca3
and here is the link to a supplier of the part (it is expensive
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvkC18yXH9iIvlH%2b7DLPI6OHuCHDBGG2pU=
Let us know how it turns out, if you go this route that is
That's the only solution I've found.......short of finding NOS SPX opto's.
Edward
mspaeth
New member
Optos don't often go bad... have you tried cleaning them, etc?
I'd have to look @ the opto board on my gorf, but I doubt there's anything special about the optos they used...
Don't hold me to this....but the main problem with them is an oddball footprint.
Edward
Run over to Master and see if they have any. The NTE price list they use is going on three years old. It might shave a dollar or two.
Edward
mspaeth
New member
Might make sense to make new opto board w/ newer optos...
OP
OP
They are not what i would call dirty..no heavy dust or anything, but I can give it a swab tonight when I get in.
I have poked around in a Jameco's site looking at data sheets. I may have a promising replacement. Still digging.
Yeah, I can run down to Master. Looks like they have some on hand..a touch cheap, but just a touch!
I have poked around in a Jameco's site looking at data sheets. I may have a promising replacement. Still digging.
Yeah, I can run down to Master. Looks like they have some on hand..a touch cheap, but just a touch!
pat9000
Well-known member
Just about any opto in the same form factor will likely work..
I've swapped them out before with whatever random ones the local surplus shop had and never run into problems.
I've swapped them out before with whatever random ones the local surplus shop had and never run into problems.
OP
OP
Well, I have been doing a little comparison shopping in my spare time. Here is what I have:
SPX1879-11 - Orig Part
LED:
Power Dissipation : 150mW
Fwd DC Current : 100 mA
Peak Fwd Current : 1A
Reverse Voltage : 3V
Sensor:
Power Dissipation : 60mW
Collector Current : 30mA
Vceo : 30-45V
Veco : 5-7v
NTE3100 - Suggested Replacement
LED:
Power Dissipation : 100mW
Fwd DC Current : 60mA
Peak Fwd Current : 3A
Reverse Voltage : 6V
Sensor:
Power Dissipation : 150mW
Collector Current : 100mA
Vceo : 55V
Veco : 6v
Fairchild H21B2 Photodarlington
LED:
Power Dissipation : 100mW
Fwd DC Current : 50mA
Peak Fwd Current :
Reverse Voltage : 6V
Sensor:
Power Dissipation : 150mW
Collector Current : 40mA
Vceo : 30V
Veco : 6v
Fairchild H21A2 Pohotransistor
LED:
Power Dissipation : 100mW
Fwd DC Current : 20mA
Peak Fwd Current :
Reverse Voltage : 6V
Sensor:
Power Dissipation : 150mW
Collector Current : 40mA
Vceo : 30V
Veco : 4.5v
Granted my understanding of some of this is in less than layman's terms. I, however, rank them as:
#1 H21A2
#2 H21B2
#3 NTE3100
Looking at their current requirements the SPX1879 wants 210mW total to operate. Everything else wants 250. Admittedly, with a bow to pat9000, in this situation I doubt this really makes all that much of a
difference in this application.
On the Collector to Emitter Voltage (Vceo) front the NTE3100 is obviously the one to take the most abuse however the Fairchild parts are in-line with the original. At the end of the day, however,
there is only 5V on the board, anywhere, so there is more than enough headroom for all of them.
Not sure we care about Veco as I don't think we are reversing voltage against the sensor (going emitter to collector).
(If any of my comparisons seem off base just let me know. In the end this was more of an exercise in learning more about some of these values than it was anything else.)
The other, and real, issue is fit. Looking at the drawings the only real dimension of concern is the pin spacing. There are some physical differences but not enough where I think it matters in this application. IE : All the modern parts are a tad taller but there is more than enough room in there. All of the parts have the compatible spacing for the screws. Alas, the pins. The original part is .220". The NTE3100 and both Fairchildes are (at a max) .295. This should not be an issue on the Fairchilds because, as mentioned, the NTE part can be made to work in the space (via drilling).
Finally price which, at the end of the day, is the reason for my rankings. Mouser has the NTE3100 at $8.10. The H21B2 is $1.37 and the H21A2 is resounding .89 cents.
SPX1879-11 - Orig Part
LED:
Power Dissipation : 150mW
Fwd DC Current : 100 mA
Peak Fwd Current : 1A
Reverse Voltage : 3V
Sensor:
Power Dissipation : 60mW
Collector Current : 30mA
Vceo : 30-45V
Veco : 5-7v
NTE3100 - Suggested Replacement
LED:
Power Dissipation : 100mW
Fwd DC Current : 60mA
Peak Fwd Current : 3A
Reverse Voltage : 6V
Sensor:
Power Dissipation : 150mW
Collector Current : 100mA
Vceo : 55V
Veco : 6v
Fairchild H21B2 Photodarlington
LED:
Power Dissipation : 100mW
Fwd DC Current : 50mA
Peak Fwd Current :
Reverse Voltage : 6V
Sensor:
Power Dissipation : 150mW
Collector Current : 40mA
Vceo : 30V
Veco : 6v
Fairchild H21A2 Pohotransistor
LED:
Power Dissipation : 100mW
Fwd DC Current : 20mA
Peak Fwd Current :
Reverse Voltage : 6V
Sensor:
Power Dissipation : 150mW
Collector Current : 40mA
Vceo : 30V
Veco : 4.5v
Granted my understanding of some of this is in less than layman's terms. I, however, rank them as:
#1 H21A2
#2 H21B2
#3 NTE3100
Looking at their current requirements the SPX1879 wants 210mW total to operate. Everything else wants 250. Admittedly, with a bow to pat9000, in this situation I doubt this really makes all that much of a
difference in this application.
On the Collector to Emitter Voltage (Vceo) front the NTE3100 is obviously the one to take the most abuse however the Fairchild parts are in-line with the original. At the end of the day, however,
there is only 5V on the board, anywhere, so there is more than enough headroom for all of them.
Not sure we care about Veco as I don't think we are reversing voltage against the sensor (going emitter to collector).
(If any of my comparisons seem off base just let me know. In the end this was more of an exercise in learning more about some of these values than it was anything else.)
The other, and real, issue is fit. Looking at the drawings the only real dimension of concern is the pin spacing. There are some physical differences but not enough where I think it matters in this application. IE : All the modern parts are a tad taller but there is more than enough room in there. All of the parts have the compatible spacing for the screws. Alas, the pins. The original part is .220". The NTE3100 and both Fairchildes are (at a max) .295. This should not be an issue on the Fairchilds because, as mentioned, the NTE part can be made to work in the space (via drilling).
Finally price which, at the end of the day, is the reason for my rankings. Mouser has the NTE3100 at $8.10. The H21B2 is $1.37 and the H21A2 is resounding .89 cents.
Can someone decipher "run down to Master"? Is this a local electronics place, or some internet jargon that I'm too old to understand?
Thanks
OP
OP
It's a local place. Not all that helpful at times but they do have NTE stuff.
I had an opto go bad on my Gorf mini a few months back. It was stuck to the right side of the screen so I switched it with the one in the down position. I couldn't move upwards but it was still somewhat playable until i could do more research on a replacement. Eventually, I replaced it with one of the NTE 3100's as mentioned. I did have to drill 2 new holes for the pins because of the different pin spread on the 3100 but everything works just fine now.
OP
OP
Just a follow up. I replaced my failed opto with a H21A2. Works great!! Total cost... 89 cents.
Notes on mounting.
The pin spacing is a little bit wider. I opened the holes a little but in the end I probably did not have to do it at all. There is enough of a hollow cavity under the part that you can easily bend/flex the pins into the factory holes. That is what I did on my first test fit.
Orientation. The original SPX1879 has pin one front right (White dot on the part matching a white dot on the board.). The H21A2 has pin one rear left with the lobe cut at an angle to your left. Long / short, don't line it up by pin one. They are different. Mount it so the uncut lobe marked with the "D" and the "+" is closest to the white dot on the board.
If you care the "D" lobe is the photo transistor side. The "E" side is the LED side. Follow the "+" pin (pin one BTW) back on LED side and you will see its fed by a resistor that's taped into the positive power grid in the center of the board.
Here is a datasheet for the H21A2 if anyone cares.
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/fairchild/H21A2.pdf
Notes on mounting.
The pin spacing is a little bit wider. I opened the holes a little but in the end I probably did not have to do it at all. There is enough of a hollow cavity under the part that you can easily bend/flex the pins into the factory holes. That is what I did on my first test fit.
Orientation. The original SPX1879 has pin one front right (White dot on the part matching a white dot on the board.). The H21A2 has pin one rear left with the lobe cut at an angle to your left. Long / short, don't line it up by pin one. They are different. Mount it so the uncut lobe marked with the "D" and the "+" is closest to the white dot on the board.
If you care the "D" lobe is the photo transistor side. The "E" side is the LED side. Follow the "+" pin (pin one BTW) back on LED side and you will see its fed by a resistor that's taped into the positive power grid in the center of the board.
Here is a datasheet for the H21A2 if anyone cares.
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/fairchild/H21A2.pdf
gorfman
New member
Thanks for posting a followup. It's good to know there are replacement parts availible if needed.
